Few stupid ?'s... like your suprised, reinstalling engine Options

[tdgray]

I am going to attempt to reinstall the engine if I can get the engine bay painted over the weekend.

Few dumb questions... I know some of these have been covered but I am not clear.

CV's

1) Is there supposed to be a gasket in between the engine and CV connection?
2) Should I replace the roll pins with new ones?
3) Did we ever determine when replacing the bolts with allen head bolts, what grade they should be and if you want to put a nylock bolt on the back how long they should be?
4) What kind, if any lube should I have handy?

General

1) Is installing the engine as easy as removing it? Am I going to have mucho trouble getting the tin back through the hole? Is there anything I can do to aid in the process.
2) Can I do this by myself or must I ply a freind with beer to get a helping hand?


Thanks as always for entertaining my stupid questions.

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (tdgray @ Sep 14 2005, 01:31 PM)

1) Is there supposed to be a gasket in between the engine and CV connection? 2) Should I replace the roll pins with new ones? 3) Did we ever determine when replacing the bolts with allen head bolts, what grade they should be and if you want to put a nylock bolt on the back how long they should be? 4) What kind, if any lube should I have handy? General 1) Is installing the engine as easy as removing it? Am I going to have mucho trouble getting the tin back through the hole? Is there anything I can do to aid in the process. 2) Can I do this by myself or must I ply a freind with beer to get a helping hand? Thanks as always for entertaining my stupid questions.

1. no, because CV's attach to the transmission, not the engine. each CV gets a gasket.
2. not nexeccary if they are undamaged.
3. yes. and recently. (12,9 ...)
3a. long enough to engage the Nylon; there are many sizes. a short "shear" nut should be adequate.
4. LubroMoly CV Grease or Swepco Moly Grease.

G-

1. yes, as long as you can reverse gravity and make the engine leap up into the car.
ok - in many ways it's easier (for one thing, you're sure you've got -everything- disconnected...)
go slow, check alignment often. force nothing.
2. a friend to steady things while you work the jack is a big help. but with good hydraulics it can be done by one. keep everything stable and secure.

[lapuwali]

Well, the CVs don't connect to the engine... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

Yes, there's a thick gasket that goes between the CV and the output flange. If you don't have these, you'll fling grease all over the place, and have a good chance of getting grit into the joint itself, which causes premature failure. Since these joints are NLA, this would be bad.

While you're buying gaskets, also buy NEW bolts and NEW Schnorr washers. You can get the whole thing from PP, GPR, et al. Just buy the 12-point bolts, not the Allens. You'll know they're the right grade. None of this stuff is expensive.

If you use proper washers and torque them properly, there's no need for the nuts on the back side. People regularly drove for tens of thousands of miles on the stock setup. Most of the backing out scenarios are caused by people not installing the right parts correctly.

Installing the engine can be done solo. Just go slow, and think ahead.

[tdgray]

Gee guys thanks for jumping all over the engine vs. trans thing.

Thanks for all the advise.

[MarkV]

Having just done mine last weekend, here is a tip. Use a couple of pieces of sheet metal to help guide the engine into place. I used a real estate sign that I cut in half. Some people use old license plates. Make sure you torque the cv bolts and use the proper washers.