Help...my 914 is bucking and stalling Options

[adammtb]

Hello there,

I just bought a 72 914 w/ a 1.8 according to the seller. I drove it about 5 hours home no problem. However, when I drive it now, I can run for about 30 minutes then it starts to lose power and buck. The car stalls if I take my foot off the gas. I have to pull over, shut it down for a few minutes and then i can drive off. It then does this every 5-15 minutes. I also think I added to much oil, how are you supposed to check the level, I heard the engine needs to be running? Now there is oil all throughout the engine bay. Did I blow oil out throuhg the air filters, and if so can I take them off to drive into town, about 12 miles. Please help I would love to fix this tomorrow.

Thanks,
Scooter

[bd1308]

the 72 has a oil bath filter....supposed to be like that....

there shoudl be a dipstick for checking the oil level...the engine should be warm.....

bucking/stalling....if you know which FI system you have please tell us, it helps to narrow things down

if D-jet check the CHT, located by the #3 cylinder.

now oil all over the engine bay is something that i dont have an answer for? hoses disconnected somewhere?

Welcome!

[goose2]

Britt is right, there's a dipstick...check with motor not running (only sixes get checked running). The oil mess sounds like it's overfilled...if not you may have a leak or a more serious problem. The intermittant bucking and stalling may be vapor lock (do a search to learn more about it) or it may be that the plugs are fouling because it's overfilled. There are a couple things with the fuel enjection that could cause it too, but I'd start with the oil check and then see what the plugs look like. Welcome to our world (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

[redshift]

Carbs? You said air filters...


M

[adammtb]

Definatley carbs, dual carbs...when I said air filters I mean the things that sit on top of the carbs...what are those called? Thanks for all the advice and I will let y'all know how it turns out tomorrow.

[bd1308]

you're new here....you'll soon learn that I actually know nothing...

so ignore what i said...the FI models came with a oil bath filter, but i'm more partial to the laterr tstyle.

[redshift]

Yes then, the oil level can have a bad outcome, up the pukers..

You should use about 3.75 quarts, and that is over slightly. Do you have ports in your heads? There is a breather setup, that you may lack.


M

[Type 4 Unleashed]

New guys, arn't allowed to ask questions, unless they post pictures (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif) Unwritten and Unheard of Rule (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

[bd1308]

yep. miles is right. if your heads have this port in the heads and nothing is attached, you'll have a fine mist of oil all over your engine compartment. ask me how i know.

[Joe Bob]

Sounds like a fuel problem. Could be a filter or the fuel pump is going bad.

[rhodyguy]

check oil when cold or after it has been sitting for a few minutes if warm. locate and check fuel filter, just as easy to match it and just replace it if age is unknown. the oil fill tower, conical shaped item on the front/top of the engine, should have a hose on it. where does the other end of the hose attach?

[adammtb]

Ok so I found out more info...dual weber carbs, not sure which ones. It seems that the fuel pump is right next to the gas tank, I'm assuming that this is not stock. Definatley a 1.8. Oil problem solved...just had to much. So, how hot does it need to be for the fuel to atomize. If the engine is not cooling properly could the carbs get hot enough to atomize the fuel. Also, could a fuel line get hot enought to do the same. I had the same problem today...ran it for about an hour until it started, and then cooled off for periods of 1-5 minutes bought me about that same amount of time running until it started dying again. Here are some photos as well.

[adammtb]

Here is a photo of the engine...

[Joe Bob]

Those are single barrel carbs.....typically you would use 40 or 44 Weber two barrel carbs.

What you have is a single on a short manifold....I have heard that short manifolds will heat up, transfer engine heat and cause problems in the carb bowl by boiling the gas......might want to look into "phenolithic"....might not be spelled right ....spacers that fit under the manifolds....

[redshift]

phenolic


M

[Aaron Cox]

weber ICT's I think

phenolic or heat isolating gaskets...

[rhodyguy]

that open fitting on the oil fill tower just pumps crap all over the engine compartment. the cheap way to solve that issue is to drill a hole in one of the air filter tops, put in a fitting that fits the proper sized vaccum line, and let the carb draw off the fumes. where does the fuel pump sit in relation to the outlet on the bottom of the fuel tank? higher, lower, about the same. show a picture of the location and type of pump.

k

[adammtb]

Here is the front trunk compartment, note the fuel pump next to the gas tank (upper left of the photo) The pump is level with the top of the tank. It did not feel overly hot to the touch, perhaps justa bit warm. Not sure what type it is, but looks more like a 74,75 pump than a 72 pump?

[OMB_Godfather]

Also about the bucking and stalling you might try checking the dwell/point gap in the distributor. i had a problem with that where the points were almost always closed but the damn thing still ran and bucked.

[TravisNeff]

Fuel or ignition. Pop the tops off the carbs and I betcha you'll find all sorts of rust chunks in there.

Every good diagnosis is to make sure every part that you can control is up to snuff before you start easter egging out parts. Adjust the valves, check dwell, timing - then go after the carbs/fuel system. It is almost always the basics which gets you.