Schadek (sp?) oil pump mod, B-you want the lurkers to chime, yeah? Options

[swood]

Dry mocking up my T1 pump to the case and Web #73 cam and gear I observed the following:
.055" apparent clearance between oil pump shaft and cam gear. Is this enough?

There is a void at the outer end of the gear post and gear of .68" that could be reduced via a press.

Watcha think?

[Brad Roberts]

I must not be reading this correctly..

The oil pump shaft goes into the cam itself. Its may have .055 worth of "slop" if you twist the gear back and forth... but not .055 front to back.

Do you have a camera ?? this would be a neat pic.

B

[Mueller]

Disclaimer: I do not know if this is correct or not...

T1 Oil pump mod

[Brad Roberts]

What was the main reason for running this pump ?? I dont recall doing half that work on a Melling ?? (I guess I do O-ring them now)


B

[swood]

Yeah, I'll get a pic up. I'm doing a full case splitting rebuild and wanted a new pump, that's all. Seemed like the best and most affordable option. My concern is that the drive tang might be too long and bind up the cam. That's what I've heard anyways.

[cgnj]

Ok here is my experience.

Nose of the pumps has to be machined down to clear the cam face. About .090. Then adjust the gear on the shaft. Here are the directions from Aircooled

Subject: Aircooled.net Order Instructions for ECO0002
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 08:58:07 -0600
From: "Aircooled.Net Order System"

Here are some helpful instructions.

Blueprinted Oil Pump

If the engine is disassembled, install the pump body into the case, and install the cam. Make SURE the cam bolts clear the oil pump by .060". If you have a full flow application, make SURE the oil pump outlet is plugged with the NPT plug, which re-routes the oil out the full flow cover.

Installation on assembled engine: Leave the case bolts on either side of the oil pump hole loose (3 nuts each way will do), to allow the case to spread enough so the pump will slide in without Brute Force. Install the pump gasket (thick one) with a thin layer of sealer (silicone RTV is common) on either side (not too much). Install the gasket. Put the o-ring on the pump body, and give it a light coat of oil so the o-ring slides easily. Now install the pump body, making sure that the drive gear is on TOP. Tap it in carefully with a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood. This ensures that you don't screw up the soft aluminum pump body.

Install the top gear into the pump, and put it OUT OF INDEX (not in the slot). Measure how far out the gear sticks out. What you are doing is measuring the drive gear engagement, and it must be between .235- 275". If it is outside this range, you must remove the drive gear, and press the gear on/off the shaft further until the proper engagement is achieved. A vice and some sockets are all you need to press it in or out. Make sure you don't press the gear or drive shaft directly with the vice, or you may be ordering another pump real soon!

Install the gears properly, and make sure the gears are JUST below the level of the pump body (these pumps should be perfect; check to be sure).

Once you have the correct drive engagement and gear height, coat the gears with STP, Vaseline, or some heavy oil (40 or 50 weight). This ensures the pump gets a good prime immediately. Gear driven pumps are better at pumping oil not air!

Now you install the THIN oil pump gasket (it has 4 small holes that line up with the oil return groove on the pump). No sealer is needed here on this gasket! The groove is tapped to the LOW-pressure side of the pump, and this "suction" pulls any leaking oil back to the intake side of the pump. Sealers can clog the return passage, and result in a leak! Install the cover, and use 4 NEW oil-pump nuts with the red sealing washers, with the red against the oil pump cover.

After torquing the nuts to specs (you do have the Bentley manual, right?) rotate the engine by hand twice to ensure that you have no binding.
When cranking the engine for oil pressure, it's a good idea to leave the oil pressure sending unit OUT of the engine until oil squirts out of the hole; then you can install the sending unit, crank for oil pressure, and fire it up!

If you have a full flow oil system, disconnect the oil lines, and as you crank the engine and oil squirts out of a fitting or hose, you can then connect THAT hose. Continue this until all hoses are connected. Again, this is something we have to do because gear pumps pump oil well, and not air!

Good luck.

John Connolly

end email 1


-4? If so, you have to shave the pump back .090", this is normal.

john

----- Original Message -----
From: Carlos Gutierrez
To: John Connolly
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 7:49 AM
Subject: Schadek oil pump body


Hi John,

I'm started to mock up my motor and have found the the Schadek pump body hits the cam. I noticed that the stock cam has a relief in this location. Is my solution a different ol pump, or machining the pump body or cam to get the required relief?

Carlos

(two steps up and one step back)

[swood]

I got most of the milling done on the pump body, and pressed the drive post a bit further into the pump gear. I'll measure the tang/cam engagement tonight to make sure it's as recommended by John C. (.235"-.275").

I'll post pics later too. I think I had a coctail too many after doing this because I can't decipher the notes I took and posted on the bird site. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

It's something like this though:
pump drive tang to cam gear (torqued in place) - 0.056" clear
pump body to cam gear bolts - 0.04" clear

The cam spins freely with no interferance from the pump.

Oh yeah...a dumb question. Which way does the cam spin during operation when looking at the cam gear side? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[swood]

There's 0.263" of tang meat in the cam gear. Close enough for non-government work.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[swood]

Modified pump

[swood]

Here the pump gear with drive tang is not indexed to the cam gear, but butting up against it. The dimension seen is the amount of engagement the drive tang has with the cam, in this case 0.263".

[swood]

almost ready to go

[swood]

pump cover. no interferance on the outside of pump...yet.