Strip and dip a 914, geeked about new 914 3.0SC project Options

[boxsterfan]

Hey all. I am so geeked about my *new* 914 that arrived today. 1970 1.7L Adriatic Blue. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)

Although I know it can cost tons of money to restore a 914, I am seriously commited to it. I realize that I could sink $20,000 into this car and not even be able to sell it for 1/2 of that in 4-5 years. Money is an object, but I am *wealthy* to a degree and can afford it. Heck, we all know you can't take the money with you anyways. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Anyways, I am one of those people that likes to do things right the first time. My goal for the project is to take the car apart and have it acid dipped, then galvanized and repainted original color (Adriatic Blue). I want to put the 78-83 SC Suspension on, 3.0L SC Motor with FI, bigger brakes and switch to a 901 side-shifter. The intended use will be street, show and maybe an occasional AutoX. Mostly it will be street and show.

Overall, the car is in good shape. There is some rust, but it does NOT have cancer. Does anyone in Phoenix have a recommendation for a body/paint shop with acid dip facilities? How about Scottsdale Paint and Body?

Any "documentary" web sites out there on those of you who have preceeded before me?

Thanks,

boxsterfan (probably should change my ID, but I think it is taken already.)

[scotty]

Try this thread (Brad having fun)

Get a 3.2 with F.I.

This is my model for the future (after the kids are out of college).

Do as much as you cn yourself and have fun!!!

[Mike9142.0]

10th street auto body specialties. Thay are good but not cheap. Thay don't dip car's but may know who can. If you need any help with the project let me know.

[MarkV]

Why not start w/ a 73-74 car? They have many improvements over the 70-72 cars. They have a way better ventalation system, impact beams in the doors, real window regulators, a movable passenger seat.

Just seems like a shame to cut-up a perfectly good car if you aren't planning on using much other than the tub. Why not start w/ a newer tub. You could find a worn out 73-74 cheap in Phx.

Just my .02 cents. I am sure many will not agree. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

[boxstr]

Any reason you don't want to "media blast" the tub?
CCLINHOTRODHEAVEN

[Mike9142.0]

Good tub's ar not that easy to find, I have been looking. Door's can be swaped out and the later ventalation can be added.

[boxsterfan]

I am not sure what "media blasting" is? Is it cheaper than dipping? I really want the car galvanized to avoid the rust game again (as much as possible). Again, I am committed to spending the money on the car (you may define "commited" in your terms! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) )

I totally plan on doing as much of the work as I can myself (that is the whole fun of the project). I have previous experience restoring other cars such as a couple Z cars (240Z and 280Z).

I really don't have a problem with the non-adjustable passenger seat. Heck, I won't be riding there!! I would like to add the retractable seat belts from the later years. I am also planning on putting in electric windows (lots of custom work, but one little tweak I really want to do.) I don't care about A/C. I don't care about the additional vents from 72 on. I am thinking about adding the center console and gauges and an armrest/cupholder setup (custom again).

Mostly, I want to look "stock" (but not totally stock obviously). No GT flares or the like but maybe get the fender lips rolled a bit to possible squeeze in 16x7 Fuchs. Probably will add an air dam from Pelican.

Should I or could I have gotten a later year car? Sure. When I set out on this project, I came down to two terms:

1. I want to repaint original color and decided Adriatic Blue was my color.
2. I wanted a car with no cancer (found one at a cheap price too!!).

All other factors (could have painted a 1975 Adriatic Blue, etc., etc., etc...) just were not important to me.

You should all know I really value your input.

Thanks,

boxsterfan

[Brad Roberts]

I think 20k is a little low.. if you stick with a carbed 3.0 (kind of waste not to put at least a injected 3.2 in it) you *might* get out for 20k... doubtful.

I can save you thousands and help you recover some money if you ever have to sell it. Buy a factory 6 and start with that. Your conversion parts for the engine alone can run you 4k. Start with a 6 and you have all the engine tin/oil/cooler..blah blah that you need for a 3.0 or a 3.2.


B

[boxsterfan]

Brad,

The reason I am looking at the 3.0 instead of the 3.2 is to stay around 200HP. It is my understanding that the 901 tranny won't take too much abuse beyond that. I wouldn't really want to put in a different tranny because I want that "stock" shift pattern. This is really just personal preference and "design" goal (on the shift pattern.) I would agree that both the 3.2 and 3.0 are "bulletproof" with some minor upgrades. I suppose a better reason to go to the 3.2 is a better FI system (I think causes great debate amongst the brethren also).

I am more than willing to be edudcated further however!!

Otherwise, I did look at /6's, but the prices seemed out of range. Seems as if I would have had to start out at $8-12,000 for a good 914/6 that probably still needed a tear-down of the body and repaint of at least $5000 (guessing at repaint costs).

I plan on doing as much work as possible myself. Are 1978-83 SC suspensions that expensive from the local boneyard?

If I have to spend $30,000 that is OK too. Obviously, I'll try not to do that. I don't ever plan on making money with this project. I just want to make my face have a permagrin like the Joker in Batman. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[SirAndy]

go for the acid dip. then repair all the rusted out stuff. then galvanize.

go for the 3.2 with the stock FI. the few more HP won't harm the 901. they can handle up to 250+ HP. get a 911 clutch with the 5 springs ...

the late model seat belts WON'T work. i've tried that, no luck.
you can go for racing belts, or make HEAVY modifications to your firewall.

you won't get the money invested back. ever. if that bothers you, don't do it!
otherwise, go for it, yeah baby !!!!!!!

oh, and don't save on the suspension. get a 86-89 carrera front suspension. the one with the alloy cross-member. and turbo-tie rods ...

Andy

[Brad Roberts]

Easy there Andy.. he doesnt need the aluminum crossbar.. (recall ..the one you own is all hacked up because of the master cylinder)


The 901 with a stock 3.2 is fine.. they end having about 225 HP.. which is fine against the 901 (it just wont last 100k miles of severe abuse) I have said in many many posts.. the stock 3.2 injected drives like a late model Carrera when installed into a 914. Why deal with carbs ?? cold start is nice when its a little chilly outside.

You should be able to get a Carrera front end for around 800$ close to you.

B

[SirAndy]

(recall ..the one you own is all hacked up because of the master cylinder)

i know, i know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
but it's lighter than the stock, right?

just trying to find something positive about that hack-job ...
Andy

[Brad Roberts]

Its lighter by 2 lbs and they flex... We dont need to save 2 lbs at the lowest point of the car.

B

[J P Stein]

For $12-15 K one can find a V/nice 3.0 or 3.2 914 already converted. Spend $5-10k pimpin' it out to your satisfaction. The later cars (73-74) are the ones to look for.

Going thru one of these things end to end is not as much "fun" as some would have you believe, BTDT. Paying to have it done is outragously expensive (didn't go there).

BTW, flares are not a bad thing. They allow one to put enuff tiar under the car to keep it going in a straight line when you play with the waa waa pedal.

[boxstr]

MMMMMM Flares, I like flares. Big dually flares. ANd tehy are metal....
CCLINFLAREMODE

[URY914]

Nice ass shot.
Put it in the calender.

Paul

[boxsterfan]

I really don't mind doing all the work. Yes, it can be a pain in the rear dealing with rusted bolts, etc., etc., etc... I bought the car because I *want* a project to work on. Buying someone elses conversion just isn't for me. Typically, they have converted it, driven it like mad, and now are selling because it needs more work again (ie. like they have had it and the paint is ready for another re-do).

I am still leaning towards a 3.0L because of exactly what you said (the tranny just wont last 100k miles of severe abuse). Since it is going to be a street/show car, I am not looking for monster power. A 914 with 180-200HP is going to be plenty fast. I think front suspension from the 911S through 911SC's would be fine for me. I don't plan on *abusing* it, but I don't drive like a grandma either.

Non-retractable seat belts (and not being able to add the retractable's) su#*s, but a harness wouldn't bother me either. My mistake in thinking that I could be the retractable's in there. That is not project killer for me. Besides, we are not dealing with air bags here, so any way I can get strapped in better wouldn't hurt.

The big question I have is for the rear 5-lug conversion. What can be done? Read through the Pelican tech articles and it looks like:

1. drill 5 lugs in the old hubs
2. use an adapter (with spacers maybe)
3. coil-overs all around (big $$$$ but I am not afraid)
4. 914-6 rear suspension (probably very hard to find...use early 911 rear suspension?)
5. others???

Thanks to all!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

boxsterfan

[brant]

Go with rear 5 bolt option #1...
your rebuilding the whole car so new rear wheel bearings are the order of the day anyways....

914/6rear suspension is pretty similar and can be found, but offers only a small upgrade (barely noticeable)...

a 914 rear is already a coil over suspension.. and using the infinitely adjustable coil over collars does nothing in the way of making it a 5 bolt...

brant

[Mueller]

Hey Craig,

Nice car, did you or the seller "fix" the problem with the studs being too short?

I thought that is why you didn't buy the car in the first place?!?!?

[Slowpoke]

There are plenty of guys here a lot smarter than I am with all the engine-drive line-suspension stuff and anything I would add would be something I learned from them anyway. But,I would rethink the acid dip galvanize plan. I restored a really clean SS396 chevelle several years ago. I had it dipped in PHX at the redi-strip place. Long story short it looks great the whole time it was in AZ. As soon as the car went to Georgia all the seams that were welded start to seriously rust, not the little surface rust stuff, but that mean looking crystalize rust that reminds me of 'New England Rust'. This rust spreads all the seams open. I talked to the guy at redi-strip and he told me about how they rinse the car and neutralize it blah, blah, blah. Which I'm sure they do. But how do you get inside the seams to remove the residue?????
My last several cars I have done, have been media blasted on the out side and if needed on the inside sand blasted by me very gently. Now, everyone knows you got a handful to clean out afterwards with the media and sand. But, I think most people do it wrong. I don't use the compressor to blow any of the media out. I use a shop vac. When all I can get out is gone. I use a two foot square piece of one inch plywood and my air hammer. I place the plywood on all the floor area and bang away. This shakes the whole car pretty good. then vac- air hammer again and again. I can get it cleaned out in less than a day. Works for me anyway.
When you talk galvanizing, what are you talking about? Hot dipped or eletroplate? I have parts hot dipped sometimes. You can get that done in Goodyear. But, I would not do the whole car. It is still not going to get in the seams. This is where the rust will start. Plus it is differcult to get good paint adhension to galvanize. It can be done it is just a hassle. Plus sanding galvanize, well, not really a good idea. I;ve been to the Janeville truck plant to see them dip GM Tahoes etc. This is quite a process and if you could get it done this way would cost you $10,000. Anything less than that would be not a waste of money but effort also. Ahhh..... IMHO (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Good luck with what ever you decide
Peter