Strip and dip a 914, geeked about new 914 3.0SC project Options

[boxstr]

Stud problem resolved, also did not beleive the flares wetre metal. We did not have a magnet to check, they are steel as well as the rockers and valances.
Great car, just sorting out a few minor things.
CCLINCAMP914

[seanery]

I think the best reason to go with a 3.2 over a 3.0 is drivability.

I would think about a 3.0 (carbed) for a race car and a 3.2 for a street car.
The FI system is that much better with the 3.2. The 3.0 still uses the F'd up CIS.

I hate CIS, it's blah. The 3.2 is much, much better. If you are afraid of ruining the tranny,
just don't beat the hell out of it.


my 2 cents.

[Bleyseng]

Definately go with the 3.2L w/FI, makes a sweet ride. You say you are looking for a street/show car so go with the set up that is painless. The 901 can handle 300hp for quite awhile as long as you don't do burnouts in first gear.

I have also heard about the acid dipping residue being a problem to the welding seams.

maybe Brad will chime in on that since he has done it a few times lately.

Geoff

[boxsterfan]

Slowpoke,

Thanks very much for your input on the dipping process. I have heard that also, but thought the recommendation for the acid in the seams was to let the car "air out" for quite some time before continuing to the galvanize or re-painting process. Sort of like putting it up on a spit and rotating. I do know that the acid will drip out if not "removed" and destroy a brand new paint job.

Other people who have acid dipped their cars chime in?

I don't understand your logic on painting over galvanized steel however. Porsche has been galvanizing their cars since 1976, correct? Maybe the painting facilities in the aftermarket don't have the tools/resources to paint the car as the factory does?????

...and to be honest, I won't be putting the paint on. Someone else gets to do that part.

Thanks,

boxsterfan

[redshift]

The guy I have been talking with about dipping says there are three dipping stages 1- strip 2- neutralize chemicals 3- rinse with an inhibitor then bake it lightly prime and bake it some more...

I think that sounds pretty safe.. if not ridiculously expensive.


M

[boxsterfan]

Seanery/bleyseng,

So many of you have been chiming in on the 3.2L over the 3.0L, that I am starting to come around. I am not a "burn-out out every stoplight" type of person so your arguments and Brad's are becoming clearer (after sleeping on it last night).

Thanks,

boxsterfan

[J P Stein]

  Thanks very much for your input on the dipping process. I have heard that also, but thought the recommendation for the acid in the seams was to let the car "air out" for quite some time before continuing to the galvanize or re-painting process. Sort of like putting it up on a spit and rotating. I do know that the acid will drip out if not "removed" and destroy a brand new paint job.

  Other people who have acid dipped their cars chime in?

  I don't understand your logic on painting over galvanized steel however. Porsche has been galvanizing their cars since 1976, correct? Maybe the painting facilities in the aftermarket don't have the tools/resources to paint the car as the factory does?????
boxsterfan

The acid dip is a gamble. No amount of "air dry" will remove it, it must be neutralized. Everything I have read from top flight restorers says: BTDT.....DON'T.
Pretty much the same lessons that slowpoke has related.

Media blasting is safe.

The auto manufactures use pre-plated steel. This process was long and painful to develop. Getting paint to stick was the big challenge...along with getting the galvinize smooth enuff for a good finish.

[boxsterfan]

JP,

Thanks very much to you and all the boarders. I think I am going to start getting the estimates for media blasting and repaint.

I am only cautious of one thing: I want to stop rust from coming back as much as possible.

I am wondering if I should do my own POR-15 inside the areas of the body ("official " jack points, where the heater mufflers are, etc...)??? Before or after the media blasting? ...assuming after.

[Lawrence]

POR-15 after media blasting. Be sure to use a phosphorus-based metal etcher before the paint. POR-15 sells their own flavor of Metal Ready. I prefer Ospho (by Skyco) available at Ace Hardware for about 20 bucks a gallon.

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[scotty]

carbs vs FI

Cold starting (carbs): brrrummmmm--thpt-thpt-buh (engine dies) brrrummmmm--thpt-thpt-buh (engine dies). brrrummmmm--thpt-thpt-rumrum-thpt-thpt-rumrum @ 1500rpm-2000rpm (until car warms up -- around 5 minutes)

Cold starting (FI -- my guess anyway (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ): brrrummmmmrummrummrummrumm!

Warm starting (carbs): brrrummmmmrummrummrummrumm!

Warm starting (FI (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ): brrrummmmmrummrummrummrumm!

That first start in the morning always sucks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

get the 3.2FI (I will...after I blow up the 2.7...)

[Mountain914]

I've got a 72 (they are lighter) with a 3.0L SC engine and C.I.S (K-Jet).
Nya Nya to all you 3.2 lovers, but it's mine and I like it !! You're right about C.I.S. though - It does provide a 'character' all its own.
It was dynoed at 240horses, but a factory 3.0 should be about 180.
I use a side shift 901 with an intermediate shaft stiffner and figure if I do blow it up I can go through a few 901's at a fraction of the cost of a 915 or other tranny.
Mine was soda stripped and though most of you are tired of hearing it, I too have a great rear !! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)

And BTW - The flares / prep / paint were done near you:
The shop is named Custom Auto Body and Fabricating
11210 N Cave Creek Rd PHOENIX, AZ 85020-1408
(602) 997-4985

If I could only have spent 20k - it would be less than half the car it is now. I think 30k is optimistic as well - but time will tell.
You can always update the interior on your 70 to a 73 or newer (I did it on an old 72 I used to have). Figure out what' s right for you and go for it!
Congrats on the new project !!

[boxsterfan]

Mountain914, would you care to share your bodywork/paint costs? (privately)

Thanks,

boxsterfan

[Brad Roberts]

Every frame rail I have cut.. every body panel I have removed is rusting at the seams. None of the frame rails have paint in them.... the acid dip doesnt scare me. I know 6-8 people who have lost ENGINES because of "media" in the engine compartment surfacing at a later date and ending up inside the engine over time.

I would 100% media/soda blast a car that wasnt being color changed.

The other reason for acid dip... it takes ALL the rust away and leaves me with what exactly needs to be repaired. Blasting will leave you with a ton of little holes to repair... the acid also gets rid of all the sound deadening on the fender corners and in the rear lip of the decklid... I want to be able to SEE the area's where rust typically starts.

3.2 all the way. Wife can drive it.. and not flood it or stall it easily.

B

[jonwatts]

I don't suppose we'll get to see the acid dipped chassis this weekend?

[Brad Roberts]

Not unless they call me tomorrow during the day to pick it up..


B

[Scott Carlberg]

Sorry, this is NOT about this topic,

just trying to get Brad to respond.

Two diff attempts at brad@all914 have failed.



Brad,
can I go into a Topic that I started and Change the Topic Title & Description?

[Brad Roberts]

NO... but a moderator can (I'm off work right now)..

working on my MAIL server.


B

[J P Stein]

I know 6-8 people who have lost ENGINES because of "media" in the engine compartment surfacing at a later date and ending up inside the engine over time.

Blowing a motor due to ingesting blast materials into (or onto) it has got to be done only by the most ignorant mo fos....some kinda Darwin award (automotive section) winners.

Maybe you could sell them idiots some air cleaners.
Even the K&Ns will filter out the crap.

[airsix]

Maybe you could sell them idiots some air cleaners.
Even the K&Ns will filter out the crap.

I kinda have to agree. I grew up in Fremont Co. Idaho where we had about 50 sq. miles of sand dunes. We all had our sand toys (sleds, bikes, rails, etc.) and you don't loose engines to sand/grit because you make certain it can't get in. Sometimes that means putting a little thought into it, but it's not that big of a deal.
-Ben M.