Subaru transmission installation, Now it's a reality!!! Options

[charliew]

That looks good Paul. The trick is to eliminate all the flex in the brackets to firm up the shifts. The bracket that is L shaped with the two bolts in it, will flex a lot less if he will add a gusset inbetween the two bolts and down the center of the long flat. The stiffness of the flat is not in the correct plane to pull and push.

[DBCooper]

The cables were custom made at a place in Fresno. I can get the name if you like, but most any cable supplier should be able to do the same.

That was just the first go-through, Charlie, to check geometry, flex, cable length and routing under the car, etc. Next it'll be taken apart, gusseted, then cleaned up and painted. At this point just checking that it works and the feel is correct and precise at the shifter. When done it'll also be installed a few inches back from the stock shifter location, for more modern ergos.

[pablocamarotte]

Hi. I love 914 shape. Could you please help me to find who make Body Fiber Glass kit like porsche 914?

Best regards, Pablo

(IMG:http://www.sakercars.com.au/assets/aus_gallery/106_0663.JPG)

That's a Suby AWD trans converted to RWD with 2 parts <!-- emo&:beer2: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)<!-- endemo -->

Convertor sleeve: AUD$120.00
Blanking plate: AUD$110.00
If bought together, total price AUD$210.00

Looks like a side shift linkage could be tweaked to work.

I just bought a 2005 (EJ25) engine and trans (2000 miles) for the 914 - let the fun begin.

I just sent an e-mail to sakercars to check on parts availability.

Steve. <!-- emo&:beer3: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer3.gif)<!-- endemo -->

[atsealevel914]

Hi. I love 914 shape. Could you please help me to find who make Body Fiber Glass kit like porsche 914?

Best regards, Pablo

(IMG:http://www.sakercars.com.au/assets/aus_gallery/106_0663.JPG)

That's a Suby AWD trans converted to RWD with 2 parts <!-- emo&:beer2: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)<!-- endemo -->

Convertor sleeve: AUD$120.00
Blanking plate: AUD$110.00
If bought together, total price AUD$210.00

Looks like a side shift linkage could be tweaked to work.

I just bought a 2005 (EJ25) engine and trans (2000 miles) for the 914 - let the fun begin.

I just sent an e-mail to sakercars to check on parts availability.

Steve. <!-- emo&:beer3: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer3.gif)<!-- endemo -->

Welcome to the club pablo. As far as I know there is no fiberglass kit for a 914. No one would buy it since you can buy a real 914.

[JJ914GT]

The one in the photo is a Saker, not a 914.

[DBCooper]

Saker (not 914) with (among others) Subaru engine/transmission:

(IMG:http://www.sakercars.com.au/11-07-07_1337_nobkgnd.jpg)

Opened up to see the cool stuff:

(IMG:http://www.sakercars.com.au/assets/os_gallery/sprint_open.jpg)

[fat73]

Hi. I love 914 shape. Could you please help me to find who make Body Fiber Glass kit like porsche 914?

Best regards, Pablo

Pablo,

Here's a site that sells after market fiber glass 914 stuff.

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/PORSCHE914.html

Also I've attached a recent pic of my car (with the subaru wrx engine). Just painted the windshield frame/cowl black and installed a new windshield with the rubber trim in preparation for getting the rest of the car ready to paint (black...and maybe some stripes). Also painted the top black.

Ed

[ldscamaross]

it is looking really good. are you planning on making kits and selling them to those of us who are using the subi trannies? I would be interested in one.

The cables were custom made at a place in Fresno. I can get the name if you like, but most any cable supplier should be able to do the same.

That was just the first go-through, Charlie, to check geometry, flex, cable length and routing under the car, etc. Next it'll be taken apart, gusseted and boxed, then cleaned up and painted. At this point just checking that it works and the feel is correct and precise at the shifter. When done it'll also be installed a few inches back from the stock shifter location, for more modern ergos.

[Porcharu]

I will be offering one on my own pretty soon.
Steve

[DBCooper]

Converting back to a tailshifter. Jackstands, you can never have enough:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/abbyteeth002.jpg)

[DBCooper]

OK, our progress report. This is from another stand-alone thread of this project, start to finish, included again here for completeness. This car already had a WRX motor, but the Porsche 901 just plain couldn't keep up so had to go. Anyway, the WRX five speed with Quaife gets introduced to engine:

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/NewTranny.jpg)

The WRX transmission axle outlets are a little closer to the flywheel than the 901, which meant the engine had to be moved back to keep the axles aligned with the stubs.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00engine2.jpg)

Flipped manifold. Enough space in there now for an EZ30 six, easy. Nice looking hellhole too, don't you think? Still needs detailing of course, but first things first.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00engine1.jpg)

But moving the engine back meant he had to box a small part of the rear trunk. That's OK, this car isn't for hauling luggage anyway. Or lawn tools. Or groceries.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00box2.jpg)

Cable shifter at the transmission. Beautiful work.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00shiftercables-1.jpg)

And inside the car, the modified MR2 shifter. Feels notchy, accurate, and good, which is what this is all about. That and more strength, especially in first.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00shiftercables5.jpg)

A video of the shifter, still in the prototype stage, showing the action in the front and the rear.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncmaxYd1WNI


Ask Abby what she thinks of Grandpa's car. She likes to show off those pretty new teeth.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/cradle033.jpg)

The water-air intercooler. It will go just ahead of the engine on the driver's side.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00intercooler.jpg)

In the car, you can see part of the new cradle, just tacked for the moment.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00cradle2.jpg)

Axles are aligned. Yes Porch, those are your flanges. I sure hope they're strong enough. I'd hate to break one, and we intend to try.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00axle.jpg)

Business end, seen from the rear. It looks so good we'll probably go without a valence, gotta show it off. I can't wait until in the rearview mirror I see another 914 guy who's pulled up behind and is trying to figure out what all happened back there.

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/00cradle6.jpg)

This work is being done by a wizard at a shop called 40-Thirteen in Modesto, CA. Quality of work is unmatched. If you're curious there are a lot more pictures of this transmission project, the engine cradle, what the car looked like with just the WRX motor before these changes, or more pictures of that beautiful granddaughter in an album at: http://photobucket.com/Corinthiano

The other big "while we're in there" change is changing from an air-air to a water-air intercooler. This is where we had the air-air before:

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/firstrunning006.jpg)

Not enough airflow there. One thought was to put a scoop on the bottom of the firewall, forcing air up, and if we found out we needed to we could compliment that with a ducktail spoiler at the back of the roof to create some low pressure over the engine lid, plus fans, of course. But wait a minute, take a step back and think how silly that is, to do all that just so you can put your radiator in that particular location, where it will still probably only work half-assed anyway. So we just put the intercooler radiator in the front in its more natural location. Done and dusted. Better aesthetically and more functional as well, so win-win.

This is where it will be, cute little thing, hidden in front of the engine radiator in the front of the car.

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/Intake038.jpg)

The new intercooler plumbing layout in back:

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/Intake007.jpg)

Seen from car level:

(IMG:http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo234/paulillick/Intake028.jpg)

More later.


.

[DBCooper]

OK, I’ve been traveling so haven’t posted, but some serious progress has been made.

There's a separate post for this project, posted here also for completeness. We’re now officially past the jack stand stage, and those boxed in areas in the trunk are now painted.

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2021.jpg)

And the intercooler powder coated:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2034.jpg)

It will look good with all the stainless steel inlet tubing. The manifold was re-painted after the bosses were removed:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2037.jpg)

How the flipped manifold will look on the engine, pretty clean:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2048.jpg)

The inlet pipe so we’ll recirculate instead of dumping it out:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2049.jpg)

Nice welds. I grew up in vineyards so when I was younger and thinking what I wanted to do with my life one of the ideas was to be a cooper. Honest work with good people around good wine. I still think about that sometimes, but if I’d known about welding stainless steel I would have had other ideas. This is extremely cool and I wish I could do as well myself:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2050.jpg)

The Tilton fitting for the clutch slave:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2028.jpg)

One of the adapter flanges. A little concern here because it fit a bit loosely on the splines compared with the stock Subaru. We’ll see. Hopefully we won’t break them (my son is a specialist in destructive testing) but if we do we may have to try custom axles:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2029.jpg)

A broad view of the cradle:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2026.jpg)

Genuine OEM Subaru motor mounts ought to keep things in place:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2030.jpg)

The rear of the cradle on the transmission end, the cable shifter brackets:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2031.jpg)

And the rear mounts, looking really good with the black powder coating:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2033.jpg)

What’s nice about using a cradle is how easy it is to remove the whole assembly. Not that we intend to do that a lot, but when necessary it’s nice to have thought ahead. Quick waterproof connectors on the wiring looms:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2039.jpg)

And Pushlocs on the water connections:

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2043.jpg)

Then the axles, throttle cable, clutch hydraulic, gas lines, and the whole thing drops as a unit. Almost as easy as it sounds. I know Jeff ought to be pretty good at it by now, he’s aready had the thing in and out so many times.

(IMG:http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/1972%20914/engine2059.jpg)

It looks a little weird, but the exhaust should outlet in the “normal” place in the valance, if we use one. I don’t think we will. Normal on the right hand side anyway. When the turbo gets through chopping up the exhaust sound it’s actually pretty quiet before it even gets to the little Magnaflow. I describe the sound as the healthy half of a V8, pretty quiet to 5000 rpm’s but then it begins a seriously nasty howl.

Like I said before, Jeff does some really beautiful work. This is going to be fun.

[Porcharu]

Once the spring pin is installed the flange will be nice and snug. I noticed this when testing the flanges on various output shafts (I only have 4 and they are all a little different.) Looks great, is that Tilton part custom for a Suby?
Steve

[camaroz1985]

Does anyone know what cars might have a long enough shift cable, rather than getting an aftermarket push-pull cable?

[atsealevel914]

Does anyone know what cars might have a long enough shift cable, rather than getting an aftermarket push-pull cable?

Boxster maybe?

[jpnovak]

[quote name='atsealevel914' date='Feb 17 2010, 11:50 AM' post='1274905']
[quote name='camaroz1985' post='1274901' date='Feb 17 2010, 09:36 AM']
Does anyone know what cars might have a long enough shift cable, rather than getting an aftermarket push-pull cable?
[/quote]

Mercruiser boat cables are cheap and can be found from 6' to 30'. That is what I have for my GRM $2010 Challenge car.

great work in this thread.

Can you post some dimensions for the arc travel related to the MR2 shifter and the selector shaft extension? I will be working on this shortly.

[camaroz1985]

Mercruiser boat cables are cheap and can be found from 6' to 30'. That is what I have for my GRM $2010 Challenge car.

That's the cheapest I found too for the same project.

[rickthejetman]

jegs has shifter cables up to 14' for $40. cheaper than any marine cables i has seen. plus they have threaded sheath ends unlike most boat cables.

[jpnovak]

I paid $5 on ebay for two 11' cables. They have threaded ends so I can put whatever I want on them to make connections. They have really nice seals for the marine environment.

Even if they are not threaded they are a standard size to run a die down. Make whatever threads you want on the end.

[camaroz1985]

I've seen the marine cables for $20-30 a piece.