seatbelt buzzer wiring Options

[2-OH!]

Sorry guys, all 3 of my previous restorations, I deleted all wiring and removed both units from under the seat...Used the Large Yellow wires to set up a hidden switch to keep the car from being stolen...

So I can't help other than to say I thought there was a picture in the Haynes Manual...I am pretty sure there is a picture in (can't remember the author...Bruce P****) the restoration book with the yellow and black 914's on the front... The picture is in Black & White but the wiring Diagram in the Haynes is correct because I used it to disconnect on my previous Restorations...

2-OH!

[dsmeyer]

Just happen to have my '76 project car right here in the garage.
One of the few parts not yet removed.

It's very original, only about 32,000 miles.
Looks like they just connected the big yellow wire to bypass the buzzer.

[dsmeyer]

A little more detail...

[Aaron Cox]

wierd. i have a FAT relay under there.. like 2 or 3x as wide

[dsmeyer]

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 9 2005, 07:21 PM)

wierd. i have a FAT relay under there.. like 2 or 3x as wide

Haynes also shows a bigger box and calls it a Seat Belt Logic Switch.

The PO must have made some changes.

[2-OH!]

Yep, the fat relay lookin' do-dad is the seat belt interlock relay...If you weren't buckled up, the car would not start...

The one in the pic above is the buzzer for the seatbelt (and maybe door ajar) system...

75' & 76' had em' both under the passenger seat...

2-OH!

[lagunero]

where all models fit with a relay that size? The PO on my '73 must have yanked it before I could (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif)

[jim_hoyland]

Nice picture; maybe we can get a good pic of the 2x /3x size. Would like to see someone label the connections. My relay is totally intact, but there are a lot of loose ends.

[double-a]

here's how the relay/wires look in my '75. by all appearances, it has not been tampered with (car sat undriven for 20 yrs). still can't figure out which of the seat belt and seat cushion wires go to which plug receiver though.

[double-a]

here's another look, a bit closer.

~a

[jim_hoyland]

Nice pic of the '75; I'm going to check mine tomorrow and compare.

[ejm]

QUOTE

by all appearances, it has not been tampered with

the Scotch lock connector bridgeing the starter wires looks like tampering to me (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

[double-a]

QUOTE (ejm @ Nov 10 2005, 04:53 PM)

QUOTE by all appearances, it has not been tampered with the Scotch lock connector bridgeing the starter wires looks like tampering to me (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

well i've only been at this for a couple years, i never would've guessed that that lock thingie wasn't original. it looks a lot better than some of the other bypass setups i've seen though. how can i undo it?

~a

[jim_hoyland]

Mine was worse than I thought. First, the dash seat belt light works, so something is connected, I'm not sure what.

The only wires I can identify are: The green wire on the left side is part of the left seat belt switch and according to Hynes, the green wire with red stripe is the oil idiot light. I would like to re-do this mess so it looks original. Any tips would be appreciated.

Jim

[JeffBowlsby]

Here you go guys, I hope this helps. This wiring diagram is for a 1974 model, I presume, but don't know if they are all the same...

[Dave_Darling]

QUOTE (double-a @ Nov 10 2005, 06:37 PM)

it looks a lot better than some of the other bypass setups i've seen though. how can i undo it?

Don't. You really don't want this thing to be fully operational--it is one more potential failure point for your starter circuit. It's yet one more place you can be losing voltage going to the starter, which is pretty much the last thing you want to happen. It's also stupid to require the seat belt to be fastened before you can start the car. Just... stupid.

If you want it to look original, then replace the main wiring harness so you will have all un-cut wires. If that's too extreme, solder the wires together and cover with shrink-tubing. Use more (large diameter!) tubing to encase all of the wires past the point where they are spliced, thus hiding the splices from view. But I'd have the yellow starter wire there just be a dummy, and have the yellow and yellow/red wires spliced together out of view.

Otherwise you (or the next owner of your car) will be back here in a few years, asking about "hot start relay kits" and other starter fixes...

--DD

[double-a]

ok, i'll just leave it as-is, since the two wires have been joined with that scotch clip deal.

so why'd they even install these things in new models if they went bad so quickly? lemme guess... gov't requirements, right? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

~a

[jim_hoyland]

Dave, Your point is well taken; you are right about the problems a fully functional relay causes. I'm sure that's the reason my looks like a disaster--but starts every time !

What Im looking for is how was it originally set up so I can more/less connect everything that isn't going to cause a major problem.

Jeff, thanks for the diagram. I think that will help.

[ejm]

Scotch locks suck as a reliable way to make a connection. They cut the insulation and sometimes a few strands of wire guaranteeing a bad connection when moisture get in there.

This pic shows how the factory bridged the starter wiring when they eliminated the starter interupt relay in favor of the warning light/buzzer only.

[jim_hoyland]

This may be a dumb question, but I really don't know: Where do the yellow wire go to. They are huge, I assume they are related to the start function. I don't recall seeing a yellow wire at the starter or solonoid. The pictures are great, hope to clean this mess up.