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> I finally had to do something about the noise, My sound barrier
DNHunt
post Nov 12 2005, 03:10 PM
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I found a product called Quiet Zone made by a company called Ixos. It has a 3 mil aluminum layer with a 1.5mm visco-elastic layer. They put it directly on painted metal but, I still have visions of rust repair so I came up with a different idea.

I put a 2 mm form layer on the 2nd layer. The gray stuff is the visco-elastic layer and the green is the foam.


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DNHunt
post Nov 12 2005, 03:11 PM
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Here is the basic shape. I still need to trim the green foam.


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DNHunt
post Nov 12 2005, 03:12 PM
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I'm attaching it with Velcro. So, I can remove it to check for problems.


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DNHunt
post Nov 12 2005, 03:14 PM
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Here it is installed. I sure hope it helps. I'm tired of earplugs


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DNHunt
post Nov 12 2005, 03:15 PM
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Passenger side


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McMark
post Nov 12 2005, 03:26 PM
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Do you have any web links for this product? I searched for QuietZone Ixos and didn't come up with anything. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
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sj914
post Nov 12 2005, 03:40 PM
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How much does it weigh?
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pete-stevers
post Nov 12 2005, 04:51 PM
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dave that sounds like a lotta trouble....just turn up the music! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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Katmanken
post Nov 12 2005, 07:32 PM
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Fer sound deadening you want the visco-elastic layer firmly attached to the firewall...

Ideally, what you want is the vibration transmission surface (firewall), the visco-elastic layer firmly attached to the firewall, a secondary mass attached to the other side of the visco-elastic layer and something attached to the secondar mass to absorb sound.

Models are: big mass-spring-secondary(smaller mass)-noise absorber (foam, green stuff, etc)

O-w-o-H where O is the firewall mass, w is a spring (foam, visco-elastic layer), o is the secondary mass (weights, lead sheet, lead in vinyl) and H is the sound absorbers. Foam is good for lower frequencies and the silver mylar is good fot the high frequencies.....

I spent years quieting down dot matrix printers with foams, masses and a sound meter. For the print surface it was a steel bar, vinyl glued to the bar, and a steel strip for a weight.

Best stuff was glue, foam layer, vinyl with lead layer, more foam and then silver mylar on top. All glued together. Velcro might not provide enough solid coupling for the visco-elastic layer to do it's thing... Give it a try and see...

Ken
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J P Stein
post Nov 12 2005, 10:48 PM
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I hope you didn't use that stickey back velcro. Heat effects that stuff's ability to bond.......the "glue" melts. You do not want all that stuff in the fan.
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blitZ
post Nov 14 2005, 09:21 AM
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Beer please...
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Can you post the link where you purchased your sound proof material?

Thanks
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IronHillRestorations
post Nov 14 2005, 04:30 PM
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Looks like a good choice for sound deadining material. I've used a few different products by B-Quiet ( bquiet.com ).

Honestly Dave, I agree with JP here. I think it's a mistake to try and attach that with self adhesive velcro. It's going to come off and smother the cooling impeller, and I don't know why but it will be at the worst possible moment.

What I've done is to mechanically fasten it to the firewall. I've done this with a few cars and it's turned out pretty good. I drill holes in the firewall and flare them inward with a punch (to give some extra metal to thread) and then thread the holes for a m6 cheeshead screw. Then you use a fender washer behind the m6 screws and it holds great, and looks very acceptable.

Another thing I've done is to use some high quality silver mylar tape around the perimeter of the sound mat, to help keep out moisture.
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Ray Warren
post Nov 14 2005, 06:43 PM
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I used this stuff.
It's from the inside of hood on a Freightliner.
Used for sound and heat.
Its about an inch thick.
I did not glue it. I used those black plastic push in things.
We call them (christmas tree fasteners) not sure what the real name is.
If anyone is interested in the FTL part# I will try and dig it up.







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