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> Push rod tubes, How to change them...............
lbreen
post Nov 14 2005, 09:08 PM
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This has to sound pretty stupid. How do you change the gaskets on the push rod tubes? Does the whole head have to come off? Do you replace the springs. or the whole tube?Thanks lb
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Mueller
post Nov 14 2005, 09:11 PM
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short version:

jack up car, remove valve covers, remove rocker arm assmeblies, remove push rods, remove push rod tubes, replace O-rings only

should take a few hours....

more detailed instructions have been posted before, hopefully someone can post them for you....

oh wait,,,,a six or a four???

above is for a 4 banger...no idea on a six.....
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lbreen
post Nov 14 2005, 09:49 PM
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Thank you, It's a four. A few years ago I worked on a vw type 1. Sounds the same. Much appreciated. Thanks again, Larry Breen
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r_towle
post Nov 14 2005, 09:59 PM
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with a type one you need to remove the heads...type 4 the tubes come out of the head through the top of the head..instead of being sandwiched in between the head and the case...much easier..

Rich
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Dave_Darling
post Nov 15 2005, 01:08 AM
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Remember, you can leave the tube "hanging" from the bore in the cylinder head while you replace the seals.

Do one cylinder at a time, and set that cylinder to TDC before you start on it. Both rocker arms need to have some slack or you'll never get the right torque reading on the rocker shaft retaining nuts. (Ten lb-ft, yes 10.0!) It's a tight space to swing a torque wrench in, but you don't want to overtorque those nuts.

It can be a pain getting the pushrods to seat in the cups in the ends of the lifters. Have patience and keep trying! (Or it can be easy, sometimes.)

Make sure that the tube retaining spring is against the shoulders of the outer ends of the tubes when you're done. You don't want it sticking up far enough to rub against the pushrod, or you'll wear a notch in the pushrod.

Access may be a b*tch, but it is quite doable.

--DD
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Jeffs9146
post Nov 15 2005, 01:11 AM
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QUOTE
oh wait,,,,a six or a four???

above is for a 4 banger...no idea on a six.....


6 is even easier!!! No pushrods to deal with!

Jeff
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IanStott
post Nov 15 2005, 09:20 AM
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Since I already have my engine out and on a stand I have been thinking about the other pushrod tubes I saw advertised somewhere, collapseable or telescopic I think. What experiences or recommendations do you have?

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

PS. Can't work on my car much today as I have to check out my snowblower and get it ready to go!!
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Mark Henry
post Nov 15 2005, 09:28 AM
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QUOTE (Jeffs9146 @ Nov 15 2005, 03:11 AM)
QUOTE
oh wait,,,,a six or a four???

above is for a 4 banger...no idea on a six.....


6 is even easier!!! No pushrods to deal with!

Jeff

still has drain tubes....same diff (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)
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Mark Henry
post Nov 15 2005, 09:29 AM
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QUOTE (IanStott @ Nov 15 2005, 11:20 AM)
Since I already have my engine out and on a stand I have been thinking about the other pushrod tubes I saw advertised somewhere, collapseable or telescopic I think. What experiences or recommendations do you have?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/stromberg.gif)
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Allan
post Nov 15 2005, 09:38 AM
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QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Nov 15 2005, 07:29 AM)
QUOTE (IanStott @ Nov 15 2005, 11:20 AM)
Since I already have my engine out and on a stand I have been thinking about the other pushrod tubes I saw advertised somewhere, collapseable or telescopic I think. What experiences or recommendations do you have?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/stromberg.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/stromberg.gif)
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Jeffs9146
post Nov 15 2005, 10:12 AM
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QUOTE
still has drain tubes....same diff


Not even close. You don't even have to take off the valve covers.

1. Remove exahust
2. Crush and remove old tubes
3. Reinstall with expandable tubes
4. Reinstall exahust

Done!

Jeff

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Mark Henry
post Nov 15 2005, 10:22 AM
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QUOTE (Jeffs9146 @ Nov 15 2005, 12:12 PM)
QUOTE
still has drain tubes....same diff


Not even close. You don't even have to take off the valve covers.

1. Remove exahust
2. Crush and remove old tubes
3. Reinstall with expandable tubes
4. Reinstall exahust

Done!

Jeff

damn....it still leaks (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

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r_towle
post Nov 15 2005, 10:37 AM
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Im just about to do this, the front and rear seals and the oil cooler seals...

I saw on PP site the vitron (sp) seals...which one do you guys use...

And, when I did this last time there was mention of using a rtv gasket material in the case also....I honestly cant remember how i did it...but i think that was the deal...

Is the goo needed to ensure no leaks...if so, where is that article...

Rich
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Mark Henry
post Nov 15 2005, 10:47 AM
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Liquid teflon on the P/R seals...make sure everything clean-clean-clean!

Nothing on the oil cooler seals. clean again.

Nothing on the main/nose seals...a bit of grease on the inner lip (seal to crank) for start-up lube
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r_towle
post Nov 15 2005, 10:55 AM
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liquid tephlon...never hear of it...

I know the rest...it was just I vaguely remember putting something like rtv gasket on the seal where the pr tube is in the case, using my finger to smooth out the built in valley that traps oil in there....it was one of the tech tip things....cant remember and it was before this site....

might have either been PP, but I searched there and could not find it...could have been the AA book on 914 tech tips...

Is that needed, done or stupid??

Rich
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Mark Henry
post Nov 15 2005, 10:59 AM
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Permatex...can't remember the number off hand.

Jake's trick...done it many times now, works gud.
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r_towle
post Nov 15 2005, 11:00 AM
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so that is a yes...finger to make smooth...eliminate the valley??

Rich
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Jeffs9146
post Nov 15 2005, 01:29 PM
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QUOTE
damn....it still leaks  
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)




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