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smontanaro |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,190 Joined: 3-June 05 From: Evanston, IL Member No.: 4,197 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
My /6 is tucked in for the winter, but I still need to put in some gas stabilizer. I assume I will have to run the car for a bit to move some into the carbs, so I'm wondering about venting the exhaust (just a few feet out the door). A quick search for "vent AND exhaust AND garage" turned up just about everything except venting the exhaust from the garage. (Go figure...) Any tips/parts lists?
Thx, Skip |
smooth_eddy |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 535 Joined: 13-November 04 From: Seattle Member No.: 3,102 ![]() |
Cant you just open the garage door? Eddy
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smontanaro |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,190 Joined: 3-June 05 From: Evanston, IL Member No.: 4,197 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
Oh sure, for this little task I can. I should have been more complete in my description. I will want to work on the car (or the cars) from time-to-time. Being able to close the doors and heat the garage would be nice. |
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SGB |
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#4
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just visiting ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,086 Joined: 8-March 03 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 404 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I've tried this. My experience is that it is really difficult to get all the exhaust out. And you MUST use a powered system to create draw. There is WAY to much pressure (in impulses) to acheive anything really airtight without a draw system, and the little fan I had was not designed as an impeller at all and really didn't pull enough. Maybe with a window fan -I used like an 8 inch 120v AC that was in a box of stuff. I mounted it in a hole in a peice of wood that was cut to fit iin a partially opened window. I used corregated dryer tube as my ducting, but never really came up with an adequate exhuast attachment. Because of the heat, I dint want to wrap the pipe tightly, but anything else (some kind of hanger with an air space anulus) couldn't retain the impulse load
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r_towle |
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#5
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Try this.
Using 4 inch dryer venting metal...create the duct work to run at least 4 feet from the car to reduce the heat...from there, you can change it to 4 ich flexable drainage pipe.. All of that is at your local home depot... If you feel the need for a fan, the 914 heater booster fan with the single outlet would work great...plenty of cfm for the task, plus it has a 3-4 inch inlet.... My father has a similar setup for his motor home...lots of trial and error at the point where the system connects to the muffler...that joint needs to be very tight...otherwise it works fine... Rich |
VaccaRabite |
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#6
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En Garde! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 13,722 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Back when I was restoring old british armored cars, we would use gutter pipe duct taped to the exhaust pipes. Run the engine, look for leaks, tape them up. We found out that you had to stuff the gap in the garage door (we opened it slightly to get the gutter pipes out) or else the exhaust vented right back in.
Zach |
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