REMOVING JACK POSTS/PLATES, suggestions??? Options

[marks914]

I am currently installing my new set of B/M longitudinal clamshells. Any suggestions on removing the jack post/plates? I have the pass side done, I had to do some patching so I was not too careful in their removal. The driver side is solid, so I would like to remove it surgically. I have drilled out the spot welds I can reach, started prying and came in for lunch. I will post some pics of the progress this week
Thanks
Mark

[r_towle]

Hi,
to answer your question...you need to drill out the spot weld, and then use either an air powered chisel of a hand cold chisel to get the welds you cannot get to with the drill...

Basically, get the bottom and sides doen, then bend it up and get under the other ones with the chisel...

Please Please show pics of the install process. I have never seen pics of the elusive Brad Mayeur kit being installed and I would really like to see the process, at least hold it up and show how it fits and what it looks like...

I have heard lots of info on it, just never saw the product of I have never seen how it fits...

Do you go over the outer long, or do you remove that?


I need to do this and I might either go with the BM kit or the outer clamshell kit that restoration design sells...

to me it depends upon which one is easier to install.


Rich

[Mueller]

you are on the right track....drilling out the spot welds and removing parts in layers is about the only way....

try tapping with a hammer and prying the parts, you should be able to see where the hidden spot welds are....

good luck (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)

[J P Stein]

A major weapon in my tool arsenal is (are) die grinders (air & electric) & carbide rotary files. You can get into tight spots & do fine work or cut the car in half...as the mood suits you. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
Care must be taken for flying FOD.
I no longer have jack pads.

[joea9146]

I removed mine.... And JP turned me onto the Carbide Rotary files and they work Great

[marks914]

Thanks, Thats what I've been doing,
Here are some progress pics>>>

Half of the kit, the clamshells fit directly over the longs and part of the suspension console. So far it hasn't been too bad. I will write up a complete step by step later.

[marks914]

Here you can see the section, how it wraps around the longs and supports the step plate, pretty clever. The kit is 3/32 steel, 38 LBS

[marks914]

The pass side was a bit rusty. I patched the holes before I put the clamshell over it...

[marks914]

Here is the right side installed, don't laugh at my welds, not very pretty, but they are strong

[r_towle]

is it meant to be spot welded? or seam welded?

Rich

[marks914]

I had some rust under the boxed section at the front of the long, I cut it out and re-created it.

[marks914]

QUOTE (r_towle @ Dec 31 2005, 05:32 PM)

is it meant to be spot welded? or seam welded? Rich

You plug weld through the holes in the clamshell onto the ribs and weld along the seam along the bottom. For more details go here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...gitude_repl.htm

Mark

[marks914]

Driver side went much better getting plates off, no rust, HOORAY!

[SUSPENDED]

I've has this kit laying around for a while and was always wondering how you make sure the chassis straight before you weld. using jacks part makes sense but how do you know your straight? this is my first post by the way so, hello to all!

[Mueller]

QUOTE (SUSPENDED @ Jan 1 2006, 11:56 AM)

I've has this kit laying around for a while and was always wondering how you make sure the chassis straight before you weld. using jacks part makes sense but how do you know your straight? this is my first post by the way so, hello to all!

on the top of the page of the page there is a 914 Info section, dimensions should be listed for lining up the car....however, you might just be better off ensureing that the door gaps remain somewhat consistant and go from there.

[J P Stein]

Could you show the rear section a bit more clearly....where the long turns upward.

I like that set-up. No fishing lures here....near as I can tell.
I would have done more plug welds...prolly double or triple the amount on the verticle face and maybe on the bottom....I can't see that area in your pics.
How thick is it?

[rick 918-S]

QUOTE (SUSPENDED @ Jan 1 2006, 10:56 AM)

I've has this kit laying around for a while and was always wondering how you make sure the chassis straight before you weld. using jacks part makes sense but how do you know your straight? this is my first post by the way so, hello to all!

Welcome! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wavey.gif)

Someone will post the chassis diagram link soon I'm sure. I don't know where it is. But someplace, either here or the Bird Board.

[SUSPENDED]

thanks, damn you guys move fast in here! looking forward to talking with you folks.

[marks914]

QUOTE (J P Stein @ Jan 1 2006, 11:15 AM)

Could you show the rear section a bit more clearly....where the long turns upward. I like that set-up. No fishing lures here....near as I can tell. I would have done more plug welds...prolly double or triple the amount on the verticle face and maybe on the bottom....I can't see that area in your pics. How thick is it?

That's all the plug welds you can get, the holes are on the ribs of the long, the farther down you go, the poorer the gap. The lower section is also welded onto the drop flange. and the upper to the sill step plate.
Its 3/32 thick, 38 lbs
Mark

I will snap a closeup of the rear part later.

[Aaron Cox]

these plus an engman inner long kit would make for a super strong long no?