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Need Drill & Tap Sizes, 2.0 Head Missing T-2 Sensor Option

d7n7master	Jan 8 2006, 12:25 AM Post #1
Gary# Group: Members Posts: 663 Joined: 13-March 03 From: The O.C, Ca. Member No.: 421	(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool_shades.gif) So, okay - I'm in the (hopefully) final bits & pieces stage of git 'r done. - D-Jet / 2165 - ... I'm attaching the engine tin to the new engine when I notice that there is a blank boss on the head of my new longblock - right where my (old) engines head has my T-2 sensor attached. -Not funny- (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) Unless I'm missin' something, I think I need to drill & tap to add my t-2 sensor. Anybody know d & t sizes??? Thanx, Gary (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Attached image(s)

dmenche914	Jan 8 2006, 12:50 AM Post #2
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,212 Joined: 27-February 03 From: California Member No.: 366	Is the other side threaded? if so extend wrie and put it there?

d7n7master

Jan 8 2006, 12:58 AM

Post #3

Gary#

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QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Jan 7 2006, 10:50 PM)

Is the other side threaded? if so extend wrie and put it there?

Nice thought - No such luck. Still, no big deal. I just need d & t sizes so I can use D-Jet.

Cap'n Krusty	Jan 8 2006, 01:21 AM Post #4
Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California	The tap is a 10x1.0 thread, and the drill size is 9mm. You'll also need to spot face the boss so the CHT sensor has a nice perpendicular surface on which to seat. This job is more easily done with the head in a fixture and set up in a vertical mill. The Cap'n

Cap'n Krusty	Jan 8 2006, 01:24 AM Post #5
Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California	On second thought, drill and tap the #3 cylinder cover shroud screw hole nearest the intake manifold. Clearance the tin to allow the sensor to seat on the head. They do that on Bus heads, and it works OK. The Cap'n

d7n7master

Jan 8 2006, 10:47 AM

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Gary#

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QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 7 2006, 11:24 PM)

On second thought, drill and tap the #3 cylinder cover shroud screw hole nearest the intake manifold. Clearance the tin to allow the sensor to seat on the head. They do that on Bus heads, and it works OK. The Cap'n

Alrighty then! - That's what I needed to know -
I'm goin' in...
Thanx Cap'n & all

Bleyseng	Jan 8 2006, 10:52 AM Post #7
Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,035 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest	Sounds like that will take longer to warm the CHT up (Read richer idle) as its not right next to the sparkplug where it gets pretty hot quickly. But still should work. Blair has to do this too as the heads I have are two drivers sides.

d7n7master	Jan 8 2006, 03:03 PM Post #8
Gary# Group: Members Posts: 663 Joined: 13-March 03 From: The O.C, Ca. Member No.: 421	Brain fart - (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif) maybe (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) I was wondering if there isn't a way to "fool" the T-2 sensor into reading an appropriate value. I'm in O.C. Ca. - Cold start isn't an issue... Then I wouldn't need to D & T anything.

d7n7master

Jan 8 2006, 04:13 PM

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Gary#

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QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 7 2006, 11:21 PM)

The tap is a 10x1.0 thread, and the drill size is 9mm. You'll also need to spot face the boss so the CHT sensor has a nice perpendicular surface on which to seat. This job is more easily done with the head in a fixture and set up in a vertical mill. The Cap'n

10x1.0 thread? Just to be sure. Metric?
Thanx,

d7n7master	Jan 8 2006, 05:50 PM Post #10
Gary# Group: Members Posts: 663 Joined: 13-March 03 From: The O.C, Ca. Member No.: 421	Well, my local napa doesn't have the 10x1.0 tap I need... Should I "special order" or? Thanx

type47	Jan 9 2006, 06:49 AM Post #11
Viermeister Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region	oh crap! the head you need is on the other side of my motor! i didn't want to admit it on a BBS but both of the heads on my motor project are tapped for the temp sensor so that is the root of your problem; someone switched our heads (!). only, how did it get to the east coast?

d7n7master

Jan 9 2006, 01:16 PM

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Gary#

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QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 7 2006, 11:21 PM)

The tap is a 10x1.0 thread, and the drill size is 9mm. You'll also need to spot face the boss so the CHT sensor has a nice perpendicular surface on which to seat. This job is more easily done with the head in a fixture and set up in a vertical mill. The Cap'n

R U certain Cap'n? A M10X1.00 tap is a rare (hard 2 find) size.
More common are M10X1.25, M10X1.50 sizes.
Just wanted to double check the size before I order it.
Thanks again,

Cap'n Krusty	Jan 9 2006, 01:20 PM Post #13
Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California	I am, indeed, sure. 10x1.5 is typical German, 10x1.25 is typical Japanese, and 10x1.0 is what this uses.

d7n7master

Jan 9 2006, 02:25 PM

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Gary#

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QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 9 2006, 11:20 AM)

I am, indeed, sure. 10x1.5 is typical German, 10x1.25 is typical Japanese, and 10x1.0 is what this uses.

OK! Thanks again!

d7n7master	Jan 12 2006, 06:57 PM Post #15
Gary# Group: Members Posts: 663 Joined: 13-March 03 From: The O.C, Ca. Member No.: 421	(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif) Got my D&T today from Metric Specialties, Burbank, Ca. today! Thanks to Gary Teti - Gary even delivered them to me @ work! ---- Mucho thanks everybody for all the info. I'm takin' tomorrow off from work to git'r'done. ---- Soon I'm gonna need some dyno time to determine if my D-Jet can handle my 94 (MM) STROKE 78 (MM) CONFIGURATION. Wish me luck (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/driving.gif)

Dave_Darling

Jan 12 2006, 07:29 PM

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QUOTE (d7n7master @ Jan 8 2006, 01:03 PM)

I was wondering if there isn't a way to "fool" the T-2 sensor into reading an appropriate value. I'm in O.C. Ca. - Cold start isn't an issue...

You can't fool the sensor itself. However, you can substitute a ~4K ohm potentiometer for it--hook up the pot to the wire that would plug into the HTS, and run a separate ground wire to the pot. This will let you dial in the appropriate amount of resistance for various running conditions.

It gives you more than enough adjustability to totally screw everything up! (Guess how I know that?)

The HTS is not just for cold-start. It comes into effect the whole first 5-10 minutes that the engine is running, and affects the mixture in a continuous fashion. The cold-start stuff is either on or it's off.

The engine usually will not start at all with the HTS disconnected. Usually the mixture will be too rich.

--DD

lapuwali	Jan 12 2006, 08:00 PM Post #17
Not another one! Group: Benefactors Posts: 4,526 Joined: 1-March 04 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 1,743	If you did manage to "fool" the ECU into thinking it was at operating temp all the time (which you'd be able to do with a 100-200ohm resistor, the exactly value isn't critical), then cold starts below 80dF would be difficult, and you'd find drivability would completely suck for the first 10-15 minutes of driving in anything other than 90+ conditions.

d7n7master

Jan 12 2006, 08:20 PM

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Gary#

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QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jan 12 2006, 06:00 PM)

If you did manage to "fool" the ECU into thinking it was at operating temp all the time (which you'd be able to do with a 100-200ohm resistor, the exactly value isn't critical), then cold starts below 80dF would be difficult, and you'd find drivability would completely suck for the first 10-15 minutes of driving in anything other than 90+ conditions.

Thanks - point taken. I only asked the question 'cause I was having a hard
time finding the correct tap size & I'm spunkin' to install the engine.
I now have the correct tap & d/bit. (Thanx Cap'n for the tap size!)
"Fooling" no longer required. The fun continues.
If I have to drive my wife's RX-7 to work much longer - she's not gonna cook
dinner 4 me anymore. Talk about incentive!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)

Dave_Darling

Jan 12 2006, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jan 12 2006, 06:00 PM)

... cold starts below 80dF would be difficult, and you'd find drivability would completely suck for the first 10-15 minutes of driving in anything other than 90+ conditions.

Yeah, that is indeed one of the ways you can screw up the car by doing the potentiometer trick... That trick gives you much more rope than you need ... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/hanged.gif)

--DD

d7n7master	Jan 14 2006, 05:50 PM Post #20
Gary# Group: Members Posts: 663 Joined: 13-March 03 From: The O.C, Ca. Member No.: 421	(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Drilled: Attached image(s)

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