Replacing Fuel Lines, Anybody used compression fittings? |
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Replacing Fuel Lines, Anybody used compression fittings? |
toon1 |
Jan 12 2006, 08:47 PM
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#21
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
Aluminum will work I know guys who have used it. I used 5/16" throughout. The only line that was bigger was the metal line at the fuel tank, all the rest was the same dia.. It seems the only reason for the bigger line in the front was to identify the feed line from the tank.
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Demick |
Jan 12 2006, 08:48 PM
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#22
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Ernie made me do it! Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,312 Joined: 6-February 03 From: Pleasanton, CA Member No.: 257 |
Aluminum can be very durable (airplanes are/were made mostly of aluminum), but the type of aluminum that tubing is made out of is a very soft alloy, and it will work harden and get brittle and break. I highly doubt that vibration is really a problem. More likely the problem will occur at the ends where other hoses are attached, the lines will get flexed from the weight of those other hoses, and every time you service those hoses (or poke around in that area of car) you will bend and work harden the aluminum. That would be my concern.
Demick |
Eddie Williams |
Jan 12 2006, 08:55 PM
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#23
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 822 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Nederland, TX Member No.: 55 Region Association: None |
work harden... that was the term i was looking for. "Engineering Material & Processes" is next semester... I'm so looking forward to that class.
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East coaster |
Jan 12 2006, 09:20 PM
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#24
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,673 Joined: 28-March 03 From: Brigantine, NJ Member No.: 487 Region Association: None |
Aircraft fuel lines are aluminum.............they seem to hold up OK and small aircraft vibrate worse than our cars.
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Eddie Williams |
Jan 12 2006, 09:42 PM
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#25
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 822 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Nederland, TX Member No.: 55 Region Association: None |
I think the key would be the alloy, if you are going to buy aircraft quality alloy lines, then go for it, just make sure you perform the rigorous inspection and maintenance program like an aircraft. And when the lines have to be replaced after X number of hours of run time, then remember how big of a bisnitch they were to replace the first time.
I'm using the $7 steel lines. Should be the last time I ever have to replace them. |
smontanaro |
Jan 12 2006, 09:53 PM
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#26
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,190 Joined: 3-June 05 From: Evanston, IL Member No.: 4,197 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
This may sound (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif), but why not replace with new plastic lines?
Sure, they may not last as long as steel (or aluminum), but they have to last 10 years anyway... Skip |
toon1 |
Jan 12 2006, 10:14 PM
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#27
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
why go back to inferior( spelling?) material. The steel is easy enough to install and will hold up forever........forever......forever.....
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Demick |
Jan 12 2006, 10:22 PM
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#28
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Ernie made me do it! Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,312 Joined: 6-February 03 From: Pleasanton, CA Member No.: 257 |
I say the plastic is fine. But as far as I know, the replacement plastic lines cost $100 each if you can even get them anymore. It's not much more difficult to replace with steel (as long as the engine is out), so I think steel is a better route. Unless you want to do this with the engine in - in which case I think plastic is the way to go and well worth the extra cost to not have to pull the motor. Demick |
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Eddie Williams |
Jan 12 2006, 10:46 PM
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#29
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 822 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Nederland, TX Member No.: 55 Region Association: None |
Any one tried a modern plastic polymer replacement? Maybe more economical than stock? Or just use $7 steel!
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dkos |
Jan 13 2006, 10:05 AM
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#30
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say, "RUST"! Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 1-December 04 From: Philadelphia, PA Member No.: 3,204 Region Association: None |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/popcorn[1].gif) I'd like to replace mine without dropping the engine, but don't want to pay $100/line. Has anyone done this with plastic? |
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jonwatts |
Jan 13 2006, 10:34 AM
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#31
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no rules, just wrong Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,321 Joined: 13-January 03 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 141 |
Great thread!
With the metal fuel lines in the tunnel, do they run along the bottom or are they suspended by the grommets on both ends? Did anybody secure the lines with the factory tabs or some kind of stand-off? I wouldn't want to hear them banging against the tunnel walls on rough roads or tracks. |
toon1 |
Jan 13 2006, 11:10 AM
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#32
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
I secured mine with the stock metal tab, they will want to push the tab up, make sure you spen a few minutes to bend the tab good and tight. there is a long span between anchor points, it gives them enough flex/play for the tab to secure them with no problem.
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Mueller |
Jan 13 2006, 11:14 AM
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#33
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
kinda hard to hear those noises when your 914 is always on a trailer (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) good idea on the gromments/standoffs... by the way, Summit Racing sells aluminum fuel line as well as the steel and stainless steel fuel lines. nothing wrong with the alum. as long as like Demick mentioned, it's supported properly...the steel lines should be supported as well, but it'll take more abuse. |
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jhadler |
Jan 13 2006, 11:18 AM
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#34
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Long term tinkerer... Group: Members Posts: 1,879 Joined: 7-April 03 From: Lyons, CO Member No.: 529 |
Cool. The trick of running heavy gauge wire through the old fuee lines to use as a guide is awesome! I wish I had heard that before doing my fuel line replacement.
Well, I remember that for my next 914.... :-) Thanks! -Josh2 |
Eddie Williams |
Jan 13 2006, 11:44 AM
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#35
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 822 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Nederland, TX Member No.: 55 Region Association: None |
On the topic of grommets, you can cut a short section of rubber fuel line and slit it length wise to create a grommet of sorts to use along the length of the line to elliminate noise. You can use these as a buffer in the factory tabs as well.
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jonwatts |
Jan 13 2006, 11:10 PM
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#36
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no rules, just wrong Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,321 Joined: 13-January 03 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 141 |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/slap.gif) I've got a line on about 6 ft of 5/16th stainless from a co-worker so I'll probably go that route and get the 3/8th to match. Now if you'll excuse me I'm going down to the garage to unpack my new toy (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/w00t.gif) |
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Lou W |
Jan 13 2006, 11:47 PM
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#37
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"Here Kitty Kitty" my ass...... Group: Members Posts: 4,109 Joined: 9-May 04 From: Roseburg, OR. Member No.: 2,039 Region Association: Spain |
I think it was a "Bird" thread on Fuel Line Replacement that suggested using heat shrink on the lines as you feed them through the tunnel to prevent them from rattling later. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
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Katmanken |
Jan 14 2006, 10:17 AM
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#38
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You haven't seen me if anybody asks... Group: Members Posts: 4,738 Joined: 14-June 03 From: USA Member No.: 819 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Geez guys...
Don't make it any harder than it is..... Steel lines supports it's own weight and is attached at each bulkhead end. Rattling can be easily fixed if it occurrs. Jest get some of that closed cell foam tubing that is used for tool handles and the like... Cut off a coupla lengths, push them into places in the tunnel under and over the lines. Voilla, little pillows.... Ken |
Allan |
Jan 14 2006, 10:42 AM
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#39
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Teenerless Weenie Group: Members Posts: 8,373 Joined: 5-July 04 From: Western Mesopotamia Member No.: 2,304 Region Association: Southern California |
I just kinda pushed the tabs down over the steel line and never head any rattle or vibration noise. Remember, if you go the SS lines, it isn't a straight shot from front to rear. The line have to curve a little so there is a constant preload on them which holds them tight against the passenger side of the tunnel.
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