Need Some Help From the V8 Guys, Time to choose a rad Options

[riverman]

I'm about to start cutting and welding for my radiator on my V8 conversion and I'd like to get some advice on what rad to look for. If you look at the attachment, I'm doing a slightly different install than typical (trying to conserve some front trunk space and not cut into the front bumper). The rad I need will have to be big enough to cool a V8 but small enough to basically lay down on the bottom of the front trunk. I'd like to go as thin as possible, but I'm more concerned about effective cooling. I want the inlet/outlet fittings to be accessible from the front near the top (preferably one on either side). I know there are various custom and racing rads available, but I was hoping if anyone knew of a production car rad that would do the trick. An aluminum one would also be nice.

[riverman]

Sorry about the pic. It was a little small, so here is a bigger one.

[dlee1967]

I use the Renegade (Ron Davis Racing) setup now in both of my cars. When I had a Mazda Rotary in the car, I used a Audi radiator, but it was not quite up to the task in Texas.

I am really replying because of your hose routing diagram. I tried this routing through the heater tubes and found that even with air bleeds in the highest part of the hoses, I had trouble with air pockets. It might seem like the way to go, but does not work well for this reason.

Just my 2 cents, so you don't have to learn the hard way.

[tyler]

I finished mine not too long ago and I can't believe how well the radiator works. It's an aluminum Griffin, 27.5 x 15.5, 2 rows of 1" tubes, crossflow. They'll put connections anywhere you want. It cost me about $280 plus shipping. It worked so well I took off my pair of 944 puller fans and installed realtively cheap pusher fans to get space for the spare tire. Even now, the fans only come on if I'm sitting in traffic on a hot day and at that's only one fan (on 190 temp switch) which is enough to keep the temp under 200 (I use a 185 TSTAT). So I have the other fan on a manual switch for backup.
I mounted an inflatable spare tire on a bracket in front. The air compressor is inside the spare cover.
Here's a few pics.

[tyler]

2 of 3 pic

[tyler]

3 of 3 pic

[rick 918-S]

I have a Howe Double pass Aluminum Part # HOW 34327RNF Purchased from

Lou Fegers Racing Equipment
512 East Highway 12
Delano MN 55328

Price delivered; $ 251.36. They will also place the input and output connections where ever you specify as well as temp sender bungs and fan switch bungs.

We were stick in a construction traffic jamb in the middle of the desert coming from Vegas to So Cal. and had to sit idle like 15 minutes. My duel temp gauges reached about 210 twords the end but as soon as we started to roll they both dropped back to 170.

Oh, an observation. Don't route your hoses up there. you will be air bound and over heat all the time.

[tyler]

Couple of more issues: Aren't you going to have fans? I had my heart set on running the cooling thru the rockers but after looking at a few installations, I didn't think it was the way to go. It's pretty hard to get a clean installation through the fender well or, what I was looking at was trying to get thru the fuel tank bulkhead and into the hole that geos down thru the passenger compartment. I couldn't find a real neat way to do it. Also this means alot of joints. I prefered the good marine hose (with wire) under the car - both my hoses are run with no joints, engine to radiator. I also looked at laying the radiator down and got concerned about it's exposure and cutting into structure. If fans are there, they suck up all the space - if you put protective ducting over it, that too use up alot of space.
Best is to find one that's done and if you like it, copy it exactly.

[riverman]

The way I'm positioning the rad has been done before (P. Haun and Jaide Cars) and the fans go on the underside of the rad. The space for the fans is provided by the fact that the rad doesn't lie flat, but on an angle. After looking around, I think I'll just go with a custom aluminum rad. I'm also rethinking the coolant routing, I just need to get over the idea of running the lines underneath the car.

[rick 918-S]

I ran mine out board. I used thin wall electrical conduit. I used the mandral bent 90's to go from under the pan through the stamped front rail section under the gas tank. I think the metal helps the cooling and it doesn't droop under the car like the expensive hose some guys use.

[tyler]

Yet another thing I learned the hard way: There's alot of issues with getting all the air out of the system - the octagonal fill tank that Renagade sells is the only way to go. With that you also need an expansion tank. I found with this setup there's never an air bleed issue, even when filling for the first time. One thing though, if you get the Regenade tank - the nipple for the expansion tank hose points to the rear of the car, opposite the mounting bracket. so if you mount it on the firewall, at least I think, it looks pretty tacky with the hose sticking out and rolling back to the firewall. I relocated mine but you have to weld the aluminum to do this. The better way is to figure out where you want it and ask renegade to put it there. Just a small thing but after you get the tank, you wished you'd thought of it.
Also instead of those ugly plastic overflow/expansion tanks with the red cap and hanger bracket, I used what I think is a 911 windshield washer bottle. I sprayed it black (leaving a clear strip up the back to read the level) and tucked it under in the forward left corner of the engine compartment above the ground lug. Personally, I think it looks great - you'd never know it was there. Since there's only a bottom conn to the system and a top overflow, it's a little tricky to fill. But once filled, it works and looks great.

[rick 918-S]

I don't have an expansion tank. I used a suge style set up. I have a surge tank from a Mercedes. As I fill the system I use compressed air to move the coolant through the complete system. Works good.

[cobra94563]

I'm a newbie, and still just getting the parts together, so I know nothing... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)
except that I'm too cheap to buy the renegade system. I puchased an aluminum radiator radiator off ebay 27x16, 2row 1in for $230 and a zirgo 3300cfm singe fan ($90).
I test fit the rad and it's short enough it can sit vertical behind the headlights or tilt forward or back. I'm leaning toward installing it vertical. Just seems easy to do, although I might change my mind.
The engine I'm going to use is a mild cam 283 which was in a cobra with a 18x20 rad with 2000cfm fan. So I think(and hope) this setup is enough cooling for this engine. (283 hardly puts out much heat compared to high HP SBC's.)
Since I'm not installed, I'm still looking for simpler/cheaper ways...good to hear what others are recommending...
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/driving.gif)

[mrdezyne]

QUOTE (dlee1967 @ Jan 13 2006, 05:08 AM)

I am really replying because of your hose routing diagram. I tried this routing through the heater tubes and found that even with air bleeds in the highest part of the hoses, I had trouble with air pockets. It might seem like the way to go, but does not work well for this reason. Just my 2 cents, so you don't have to learn the hard way.

So if I am hearing you correctly, the problem does not lie in running the hoses through the heater tubes but the big "kink" in the line by making it go vertical and then back down. If a guy could find a way to the heater tubes without going up and back down it could work?

I'm just gathering knowledge for my suby conversion, thanks.....

[rick 918-S]

QUOTE (mrdezyne @ Jan 13 2006, 02:12 PM)

QUOTE (dlee1967 @ Jan 13 2006, 05:08 AM) I am really replying because of your hose routing diagram.  I tried this routing through the heater tubes and found that even with air bleeds in the highest part of the hoses, I had trouble with air pockets.  It might seem like the way to go, but does not work well for this reason.     Just my 2 cents, so you don't have to learn the hard way. So if I am hearing you correctly, the problem does not lie in running the hoses through the heater tubes but the big "kink" in the line by making it go vertical and then back down. If a guy could find a way to the heater tubes without going up and back down it could work? I'm just gathering knowledge for my suby conversion, thanks.....

If your doing a Suby, you should do what Scott Thatcher did. He left his radiator in the engine bay. It was very cool and it worked. No big long hoses, no cutting the trunks. Word!

[bondo]

My plan is to run the lines down the center tunnel. The size of the tunnel will be adjusted until they fit. The last things I need to confirm before going ahead with it is steering rack/fuel tanl clearance, and belt system clearance in the back. I'll use 1" aluminum tubing.

[Mueller]

QUOTE (bondo @ Jan 13 2006, 03:46 PM)

My plan is to run the lines down the center tunnel. The size of the tunnel will be adjusted until they fit. The last things I need to confirm before going ahead with it is steering rack/fuel tanl clearance, and belt system clearance in the back. I'll use 1" aluminum tubing.

remind me not to go for a ride in your car in the summer time (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

oh yea...and take pictures of the install, sounds interesting.....you could also "build" up the tunnel to increase the strength of the chassis (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)

[bondo]

It'll have AC and I intend to insulate. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) More to prevent transfer between the pipes, because that would undo what the radiator does. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)