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> Rambo's starting problem, What could it be?
redshift
post Jan 13 2006, 12:03 PM
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You say it won't start... it's turns over, just no combustion?



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SLITS
post Jan 13 2006, 12:07 PM
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Didn't feed it enough beans & hot sauce

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ClayPerrine
post Jan 13 2006, 12:31 PM
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To make an internal combustion engine start and run, you need 4 things.....

The trick is to remember "FAST".

F - Fuel.. Verify that you are getting fuel injected into the engine. The simplest way to do this is to take a propane torch, open the throttle plate, and feed a bunch of propane into the intake. Then try to start the motor. If it fires and dies, you have a fuel problem. If it doesn't continue down the list. If it does, come back here and tell us. We will help you troubleshoot the fuel injection.

A - Air..... Make sure there are no vacuum leaks on the system. Follow the vacuum diagram for your car (available from the bird board). Fix any misrouted or damaged vacuum lines.

S - Spark. Pull the coil wire from the distributor and lay it on the engine tin. Have your toolwench crank the engine over. If you see a nice blue spark jump from the coil wire to the engine tin, you have spark. If you don't, check the points and condenser. Otherwise check the cap and rotor. Also verify that the spark plugs aren't fouled out. I would suggest replacing the plugs on general principles.

T - Timing. Line up the timing marks on the fan with the mark on the fan housing. Then pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor points at or very close to the thin little line in the distributor body. If the rotor points away from the mark, rotate the engine over again and realign the fan and housing marks. If it points anywhere else, the timing is off. Check to make sure the firing order is correct. Trace each plug wire back to the plugs, and make sure they are on the correct towers on the distributor cap.

That's the basics of troubleshooting a no start condition.

Let us know what you find.

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redshift
post Jan 13 2006, 02:04 PM
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If you have all that reliably, and you still get nothing, turn around, because the next thing you need to worry about is:

F. uck, it' warm in here.

I. s that gas I smell.

R. eally wish this thing ran.

E. eeehh... what's that crackling noise?



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Rambo
post Jan 14 2006, 07:50 PM
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[QUOTE] The trick to remember is FAST!

It aint got a fuel problem...gas is gettin to the carb


it aint got NO vacuum whatsoever............no hose for the vac...not on it when I bought it...just that lil ole 2 barrel carb

will check spark when I can get the wife to crank it, and will go on from there...thanks fer the info; its been over 25 years since I worked on an engine, and back then, I didn't know what I wus doin either...

timeing...now thats gonna be fun..you mean to tell me there is a fan on this thing somewhere

fireing order...RIGHT, I remember the fireing order from when I wuz in Nam...but when it comes to an engine...I know squat.

but thanks fer the info...and I'll see if I can muck thru it...

fireing order...heh heh heh (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)
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ThinAir
post Jan 14 2006, 11:53 PM
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QUOTE (Rambo @ Jan 14 2006, 06:50 PM)
fireing order...RIGHT, I remember the fireing order from when I wuz in Nam...but when it comes to an engine...I know squat.

1-4-3-2 on a Type IV engine if I remember right - going from memory and that's not always so good
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bd1308
post Jan 15 2006, 01:27 AM
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QUOTE (ThinAir914 @ Jan 14 2006, 11:53 PM)
QUOTE (Rambo @ Jan 14 2006, 06:50 PM)
fireing order...RIGHT, I remember the fireing order from when I wuz in Nam...but when it comes to an engine...I know squat.

1-4-3-2 on a Type IV engine if I remember right - going from memory and that's not always so good

you should trust yourself more often

your memory's good....

b
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Dr. Roger
post Jan 15 2006, 03:59 AM
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be sure to ground the main coil wire so it doesn't start and doesn't jack up the coil.

if you really wanted to get "primitive pete" you could ground the coil, put the vechicle in neutral, turn on the ignition, and put a screwdriver across the starter solenoid leads.

nevermind. do not attempt this method. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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MattR
post Jan 15 2006, 04:48 AM
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QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jan 13 2006, 10:31 AM)
To make an internal combustion engine start and run, you need 4 things.....

The trick is to remember "FAST".

F - Fuel.. Verify that you are getting fuel injected into the engine. The simplest way to do this is to take a propane torch, open the throttle plate, and feed a bunch of propane into the intake. Then try to start the motor. If it fires and dies, you have a fuel problem. If it doesn't continue down the list. If it does, come back here and tell us. We will help you troubleshoot the fuel injection.

A - Air..... Make sure there are no vacuum leaks on the system. Follow the vacuum diagram for your car (available from the bird board). Fix any misrouted or damaged vacuum lines.

S - Spark. Pull the coil wire from the distributor and lay it on the engine tin. Have your toolwench crank the engine over. If you see a nice blue spark jump from the coil wire to the engine tin, you have spark. If you don't, check the points and condenser. Otherwise check the cap and rotor. Also verify that the spark plugs aren't fouled out. I would suggest replacing the plugs on general principles.

T - Timing. Line up the timing marks on the fan with the mark on the fan housing. Then pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor points at or very close to the thin little line in the distributor body. If the rotor points away from the mark, rotate the engine over again and realign the fan and housing marks. If it points anywhere else, the timing is off. Check to make sure the firing order is correct. Trace each plug wire back to the plugs, and make sure they are on the correct towers on the distributor cap.

That's the basics of troubleshooting a no start condition.

Let us know what you find.

What about compression?
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Rambo
post Jan 15 2006, 02:55 PM
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UPDATE...........starting fluid did nothing;

got spark from new coil, a teeny yellow spark, bout what you'd get from a Bic Lighter

and this is where I screwed up....I numbered the plug wires on the cap...took the cap off..to check the points, which did not seem to be sticking...put everything back on in the order it came off, and got no spark at all; I obviously did something wrong but don't know what..so now I gotta figure out how to get it on the trailer and take it to a mechanic, he will probably charge me more cause I tried to fix it....
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Rambo
post Jan 15 2006, 06:34 PM
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QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jan 13 2006, 10:31 AM)



T - Timing. Line up the timing marks on the fan with the mark on the fan housing. Then pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor points at or very close to the thin little line in the distributor body.

Let us know what you find.

Please tell where the fan is and how to get to it...since I removed the spark, i might as well see if I can screw up more stuff before I get it to the mechanic...
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JoeSharp
post Jan 15 2006, 07:12 PM
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Rambo: Did the points move while you cranked over the motor? The point gap is critical. The ignition fires when the points open.
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JoeSharp
post Jan 15 2006, 07:14 PM
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Through the hole in the top on the fan housing, should have a black plastic cap.
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Rambo
post Jan 15 2006, 07:52 PM
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QUOTE (Joe Sharp @ Jan 15 2006, 05:12 PM)
Rambo: Did the points move while you cranked over the motor? The point gap is critical. The ignition fires when the points open.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe

nothing fires now, I screwed something up

fan houseing...thats interesting...it stands to reason, in order to find the fan, i gotta find the fan houseing, if it is under that piece of tin attached to the engine, I gonna have to remove a lot of other things to get to it, aint no hole in anything I can see..........wait one......BINGO...found a cap, unscrewed it...everything was painted gold, dont see a fan tho, see a red cut in the metal..is that signficant?
its like a one sided arrow, with red on the inside point

my e-mail address is MGall92623@aol.com
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JeffBowlsby
post Jan 15 2006, 08:15 PM
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JoeSharp
post Jan 15 2006, 08:15 PM
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OH MY GOD.... That guy detailed the inside of the fan housing. Pull the engine cover, so you can get your head in there and look towrdes the back of the car part of your bike. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) You should see a notch, thats is the timing point on the fan housing. The timing marks are on the fan and it spins at the bottom of the notch. I have seen 2 notches 1 towrdes the front and one towrdes the rear. The rear one has the timing marks. There should be a 0 at top dead center (TDC) and as the crank turns there should be a mark at 27* before (I think) TDC. That is the timing mark for full advance.

If it has points put in an Igniter.
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Rambo
post Jan 15 2006, 11:34 PM
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[CODE]'user

OK...ima 57 yr old Nam Vet thats slightly Bi-polar..trying to learn sumtin here..please bear wit me:

you mean take the cover off the HELL HOLE? or the tin that the cap screws into?
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JeffBowlsby
post Jan 15 2006, 11:41 PM
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Rambo
post Jan 15 2006, 11:45 PM
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Ok...how do I attach an image...I'll show you what my engine area looks like....nothing like what you posted
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JoeSharp
post Jan 15 2006, 11:48 PM
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Dude: Sorry, I'm a 173rd vet and we can work it out. Forget about the hell hole, we can work that out later. You need to look inside the hole that the cap on the fan housing screws into. That is where you find the timing marks.
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