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> L-jet issues, cold starting.
bd1308
post Jan 27 2006, 10:57 PM
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first start, i cant get it to run for more than 10 seconds...just coughs and dies. I think its my points going south, they're pretty pitted which looked wild. I'm either holding out for a good set of BOSCH points and condensor, or just going with Pertronix altogether. If someone has an extra one, could I borrow it and pay you back when I get my job?

Anywho, second start, I have to rev it to around 2500-3000 for 15 seconds, and then its okay. idles at 1600 or so until warm then idles at 1000. I can hear it missing a little, but again i think its from the points.

FLAPS has the shittiest points set i have EVER seen.

anybody have any hints or do you concur with my diagnosis?

b
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sean_v8_914
post Jan 28 2006, 12:03 AM
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IIRC Compufire gets more favorable reviews around here although I have used both Compufires and Pertronics. either unit will significatly smooth out idle and make it start more easily than points.

You are correct to chase down ignition performance first. check your plugs while your in there. alto check your plug wires . As an l-Jet owner, I should not have to remind you about vacuum leaks, right (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
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bd1308
post Jan 28 2006, 07:34 AM
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not at all (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

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r_towle
post Jan 28 2006, 08:49 AM
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Britt,
Do you have a dwell meter?

Get some emery cloth (metal sand paper) and clean your points by folding the emery cloth over so the abrasive side is facing out on both sides...

Slide it in between the contact point (not in the car...you dont want the dust in the dizzy)

Slide the emery cloth back and forth till the points are smooth and clean.

Now, if you want them to stop pitting, set them perfectly using a dwell meter..not just a feeler guage.
Get them close with a feeler guage, then get them perfect with a dwell meter.

Also, oil you dizzy. In the top of the shaft just under the rotor is a place to put a few droplets of oil each time you clean and set the point.

Valves need to be perfect also. They creat a vacuum leak if they are not set correctly.

FI seals. make sure all your 30 year old FI seals are in good shape, they also create small vacuum leaks.

Rich
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sean_v8_914
post Jan 28 2006, 12:57 PM
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Hey Rich, I live on your street...Towle Court

a really good mech once told me "check all teh cheap stuff first"

I thought that pitted points meant a bad condenser. if you sand them like Rich said, it should run better for a while if that is the problem. if it degrades again then change teh condenser (capacitor on teh side of dizzy)
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r_towle
post Jan 28 2006, 04:20 PM
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Stop dripping oil on my street.

Rich
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bd1308
post Jan 28 2006, 11:14 PM
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i hate the piece chinese crap I get from FLAPS.

i want to hold out for either a BOSCH points set and condensor -OR- get a pertronix again.

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Rand
post Jan 28 2006, 11:22 PM
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FWIW... Points are not THAT lame... They should not be getting pitted. Unless your ignition system is unhealthy. Clean them up as Rich said. If they get pitted again any time soon, there's a problem somewhere.

A bad condensor can cause pitting in the points.

Deja vu.... Have we been through this before? Pitted points... went Pertronix... burned that up too.... back to points....??? Something else is not right in the system.
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bd1308
post Jan 29 2006, 07:41 AM
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OK

you have a point.

I used a dremel to clean off another pair of points, so i'll pop those in to see what happens.

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bd1308
post Jan 29 2006, 01:36 PM
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popped in a new set of points (keeping same condensor) and fixed some hose routing problems with my AAR and voila! no problemo!

thanks guys....once again.

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r_towle
post Jan 29 2006, 04:22 PM
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ok,
Now from PP, you can get bosch point for a wopping $2.75

Get at least two, put on in the glove box.

Replace them twice per year.

Rich
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bd1308
post Jan 30 2006, 07:53 AM
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okay same deal....

when is the cold start injector supposed to kick on? Like 40F or so?

Myabe thats my issue, like the cold start injector is plugged or soemthing.

Its a minor annoyance, and I dont like having to rev to 3000 for 15-20 seconds to get my car to idle.

its supposed to get to 50F today, so i guess i'll see if its easier to start.l

also teh AAR is making a whistling sound when i let off of the throttle....is this normal or is the AAR going out?

I think i'll probably end up taking the AAR out of the equation. It worked just fine without it, if i recall correctly.

b
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