media blasting, DIY or farm it out Options

[sk8kat1]

I came across a blaster that I can buy for damn near free--

the plan: striping the car down to the tub,then blast to bare metal to do some cancer surgery ,then a complete repaint with house of kolor paints--

the question :

am I better off sending the rolling tub to a blaster

or

picking up the blaster I found .. putting the tub on the rotissaire and the hanging heavy plastic sheeting in my 3rd car garage to make a kinda booth and blasting it my self that way?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

[alpha434]

Find some place to acid dip it. Wink wink. But that's illegal for SCCA racing. You lose some structure rigidity (theoretically) and the car loses a lot of weight. SCCA specifically says against it.

But otherwise, I've worked on a lot of 356s that have been acid dipped and the results are very good.

For media blasting, farm it out. Setting up your own shop for it would take incredible amounts of time/energy and wouldn't be worth it unless you were doing a bunch of cars. And a huge mess too.

[bondo]

The size of compressor you'd need to do a whole car in a reasonable amount of time would be as big as a car. Farm it.

[Brett W]

Farm it out. You will be diggin' sand out of your ass crack and ears for a month.

Blasting is probably much cheaper than acid dipping. I checked on Dipping and it was close to 1.75 per lb. Standard acid dipping will not hurt the intregrity of the chassis. You must use a much stronger acid to actually remove any metal.

[byndbad914]

a bit of hearsay, but I have heard of a 914 hood and thin panels getting messed up because one of his guys held the gun in an area trying to get the paint off and the heat warped the panel. I would farm out media blasting. At least a media blasting shop in Orange,CA told me that story because it happened at his place and he told me to have the car acid dipped and gave me the acid dip's phone number (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) After bitching about the undercoating for about 10 minutes first of course.

So I am going to acid dip because sometimes you can't even trust the "pros" to get media blasting right apparently.

[bondo]

QUOTE (byndbad914 @ Feb 6 2006, 09:59 PM)

a bit of hearsay, but I have heard of a 914 hood and thin panels getting messed up because one of his guys held the gun in an area trying to get the paint off and the heat warped the panel. I would farm out media blasting. At least a media blasting shop in Orange,CA told me that story because it happened at his place and he told me to have the car acid dipped and gave me the acid dip's phone number (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) After bitching about the undercoating for about 10 minutes first of course. So I am going to acid dip because sometimes you can't even trust the "pros" to get media blasting right apparently.

That's why you get baking soda blasting. No warpage.

Search for acid dips.. lotsa bad experiences here.

[sgomes]

I've seen a couple of cars up at HPH that had been acid dipped. They looked absolutely incredible.

Talk to Andy about sand blasting and the beach he carries with him everywhere he goes.. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)

[alpha434]

Right, yeah. We've NEVER had any problems with acid dipping. That was just specified by SCCA and for that reason. I can pull it out of the rule book. I think I've got 2002 on disc. And we usually have our cars double or triple dipped to lose weight, and mostly just to defy said rulings.

I'm going to acid dip my car as stated and then do the rollcage and strength kits afterward.

And "pro" when it comes to body work usually means that he's affordable to the employer. Otherwise, he's not spraying sand.

[Eric_Shea]

QUOTE

Find some place to acid dip it. Wink wink.

Then your heater tubes are oatmeal. Wink wink. Unless you cut them out. Then... you've just cut the backbone of your car. Not my cup of tea.

I've got pictures of acid weaping out of a 914 tub a full year after it was dipped. Have fun. Don't say I didn't warn you. I'd rather have sand coming out of my car than acid weaping out of the seams all over my new paint job.

Soda blasting is by far the very best solution.

If you can find an expert sand blaster JOB IT OUT. You won't believe what a discusting task this is. I say expert because they need to know at what angles and with what pressure to blast otherwise your car is toast. Panels will warp with the pressures generated by most commercial blasters.

It does not generate enough heat to warp the panels. Calling 'Myth Busters', calling 'Myth Busters'

[johnmhudson111]

QUOTE (alpha434 @ Feb 7 2006, 12:04 AM)

That was just specified by SCCA and for that reason. I can pull it out of the rule book.

I have always wondered, just how would anyone know that you acid dipped your car if you didn't tell them? I know that may sound stupid but really? how would they know?

[McMark]

If you media blast, make sure to dig out the foam crap that in the top front and top rear corners of the rear fenders. Stupid foam. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif)

[alpha434]

QUOTE (johnmhudson111 @ Feb 6 2006, 09:17 PM)

QUOTE (alpha434 @ Feb 7 2006, 12:04 AM) That was just specified by SCCA and for that reason. I can pull it out of the rule book. I have always wondered, just how would anyone know that you acid dipped your car if you didn't tell them? I know that may sound stupid but really? how would they know?

Hehe. Don't tell everybody, or everybody will do it.

Actually, its not just 356s that I've worked with when it comes to acid dipping. Taildraggers too. After paint, you can't tell at all. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
So the acid dipping thing is henceforth top secret. Go forth and have an edge over your opposition. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

The acid leaking out of the heater tubes can be true, though. You have to carefully check how the shop processes the vehicles. They should dip it in another solution to clean the acid off. A lye solution, to nuetralize the acid. It dries off.

Or just cut out the stupid heater tubes. Then put in reinforced steel in its place after the fact.

[jimkelly]

This is what a local media blast place told me ...

When blasting yourself - the air supply will determine how long/ how
much work can be accomplished in an hour and that is a function of
nozzle size. A nozzle of 5/16" will require 191 cfm @ 110 psi and use
485 lbs of walnut shells per hour -

Wavy panels are not as a result of heat - the typical heat rise of a
blasted surface with paint Vs one without using temp probe is 5 degrees.
The differential of your car in the sun on a summer day can be 100 degrees.

Warping is a result of peening the metal - stretching one side so that it
is longer than the other - This can occur with any abrasive

A typical car will cost $ 1,000.00 - $ 1,200.00 to strip paint from
exterior surfaces and priming using Dupont 615 Vari prime will add an
additional $ 400.00

[Brotherbob]

I am a DIY kinda guy.
This is what I would do....
Sand entire car as much as you can back to bear metal.
Walnut shell blast the areas dificult to sand
POR 15 prime and some kind of top coat.
You need a damn good compressor, line dryer, and a good blast unit.
I do not like acid dips for the reasons stated above. I work at a hvy line shop and we blast 400-500 chassis a year , 18 wheeler type.
By all means make sure to wear correct breathing protection. Blasting is not faster but gives a better surface for paint to adhear to.
MY 2cents worth. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

QUOTE

The acid leaking out of the heater tubes can be true, though. You have to carefully check how the shop processes the vehicles. They should dip it in another solution to clean the acid off. A lye solution, to nuetralize the acid. It dries off. Or just cut out the stupid heater tubes. Then put in reinforced steel in its place after the fact.

It's not acid leaking out of them. It's acid simply destroying them. So the tubes are basically plastic, rubber, asbestos, cardboard and some metal. I'd be interested in the 'process' one would use to 'protect' that in an acid solution.

You can cut out your 'stupid' heater tubes but I wouldn't recommend it to my friends. The longitudinals are quite simply the backbone of your car.

Would you submit to back surgery if you didn't need it?

I've seen this first hand, a number of times. My first experience was in restoring my 66 911. There's a spot in the passengers footwell that traps acid. Because of the way the car was constructed you can't get at this from the front or back. The same spot is in a teener tub. It weeps. Also, the seams weep. On a recent tub, there was 10 additional hours of prep because the acid was weeping and beginning to damage the primer at the seams.

Soda blast. (please)

[bd1308]

I agree.

the acid does weep from the seams, and you have to keep dicking with it.

I cant imagine a car being exposed to both acid and lye, or having it both weep from my car...or touching it.

woah

soda blasting works well...cant afferd it tho.

b

[alpha434]

acid+alkaline nutralizes to water. Usually the most pure water that you would ever see. No impurities, because its artifically manufactured. So the problem is getting it dry quickly after the process, or your car will be right back where it started. I wonder if anyone in the acid dipping business has ever though ahead to offer a dip in primer as long as everything's being dipped.

I guess you'd have to be out there to run high pressure aire through the heater ducting as soon as it came out.

[gopack]

QUOTE (McMark @ Feb 6 2006, 09:21 PM)

If you media blast, make sure to dig out the foam crap that in the top front and top rear corners of the rear fenders.  Stupid foam.  :(

can any one show me a picture of where the foam is? I am geting ready to send my car to be soda blasted in 2 weeks, and i am trying to get all the prep work DONE!

[blitZ]

QUOTE (alpha434 @ Feb 7 2006, 08:33 AM)

acid+alkaline nutralizes to water. Usually the most pure water that you would ever see. No impurities, because its artifically manufactured. So the problem is getting it dry quickly after the process, or your car will be right back where it started. I wonder if anyone in the acid dipping business has ever though ahead to offer a dip in primer as long as everything's being dipped. I guess you'd have to be out there to run high pressure aire through the heater ducting as soon as it came out.

As I recall from chemistry, several decades ago, acid and alkaline mixed in the appropriate amounts create a harmless salt with a balanced pH.

[rpmmaxxed]

QUOTE (alpha434 @ Feb 6 2006, 09:28 PM)

QUOTE (johnmhudson111 @ Feb 6 2006, 09:17 PM) QUOTE (alpha434 @ Feb 7 2006, 12:04 AM) That was just specified by SCCA and for that reason. I can pull it out of the rule book. I have always wondered, just how would anyone know that you acid dipped your car if you didn't tell them? I know that may sound stupid but really? how would they know? Hehe. Don't tell everybody, or everybody will do it. Actually, its not just 356s that I've worked with when it comes to acid dipping. Taildraggers too. After paint, you can't tell at all. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) So the acid dipping thing is henceforth top secret. Go forth and have an edge over your opposition. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif) The acid leaking out of the heater tubes can be true, though. You have to carefully check how the shop processes the vehicles. They should dip it in another solution to clean the acid off. A lye solution, to nuetralize the acid. It dries off. Or just cut out the stupid heater tubes. Then put in reinforced steel in its place after the fact.

So you require a method of illegal weight removal to "have an edge over your opposition." to get your " (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif) "?


Whatever floats your boat I guess, I could sleep easier after a win knowing that I did it by skill and finesse, and those being all I needed to have an "edge over my opposition"...