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> Proportioning Valve, replace with a "T"
rmital
post Feb 8 2006, 12:54 PM
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Brake system just about completely replace....master cylinder, all lines, etc. Just the proportioning valve still original.

Part A: Bleeding still producing a sloppy brake pedal...too much play. I'm hoping replacing the proportioning valve with a "T" will solve my problem. Has anyone had success with this?

Part B: Considering how the car is balanced, will the "T" replacement be safe...no fishtailing?

I hope I was clear with my description...be kind.

Thanks,
Ray
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914-8
post Feb 8 2006, 05:14 PM
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+1 on that - what's a good source for a T?
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 8 2006, 07:08 PM
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www.cip1.com or James Adams here sells them (Resource section)
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 8 2006, 07:09 PM
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Here's the actual product link hard to beat $4.95 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
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cobra94563
post Feb 8 2006, 09:41 PM
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Thank you, Eric.
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Always Looking
post Feb 8 2006, 09:48 PM
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1980 BMW 320i fronts, stock rears-

Replace with a T? (or adjust P-valve?)

Good discussion. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)
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J P Stein
post Feb 8 2006, 09:53 PM
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QUOTE (Always Looking @ Feb 8 2006, 07:48 PM)
1980 BMW 320i fronts, stock rears-

Replace with a T? (or adjust P-valve?)

Good discussion. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)

Yeah, itteration # 73 if my memory serves ....which is questionable, I fear. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)
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rmital
post Feb 8 2006, 10:03 PM
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QUOTE (jhadler @ Feb 8 2006, 01:41 PM)
3) Check rear brake adjusters. If they are way out of adjustment, you'll notice extra pedal travel.

Thanks for all the great responses....

I'm definitely concerned about the rear brake adjustments. What the heck is the check on that?

When depressing the brake pedal, it just kind of travels pretty much right to the floor board. Not really spongy, just consistent right to the floor.

Hopefully we could get a better bleed tomorrow. Maybe a sucking power bleeder would be better than a blowing bleeder.......to pull the air out of the pvalve....if that's the case.

...since pumping the crap out of the brake pedal didn't work!

This is really killing me...
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r_towle
post Feb 8 2006, 10:06 PM
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The stock p-valve is designed to not let fluid through until pedal force, or fluid force reaches something like 750 lbs...
Here is how I do it...it works for me...

bleed the whole system twice, till you get decent pressure..

then push on the brake pedal really hard for about 3-5 minutes...you feel the air bubbles slowly work through the valve...the pedal kinda bumps on the way down each time a bubble goes through...

I had to do this twice...just the other night..

Your leg will get real tired...but you will get all the air past the valve..

Then bleed the system twice more...

now the pedal should be right up to the top...

this assumes venting clearance is correct, and push rod is set to the right length...

the air seems to be trapped just in front of the valve...so you have to push it through the valve...

Car has great brakes now.

Rich
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pek771
post Feb 8 2006, 10:13 PM
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Drive that buggy up the hill, and I'll take a look at them for you. I want to see what your car looks like anyway!
Pat
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 8 2006, 10:20 PM
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320's have the same piston as the M-caliper. With stock rears, T.
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914-8
post Feb 8 2006, 11:09 PM
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QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Feb 8 2006, 05:09 PM)
Here's the actual product link hard to beat $4.95 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

Does that just bolt right up in place of the P valve?

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Eric_Shea
post Feb 8 2006, 11:13 PM
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Pretty much. Minor bending and tweaking. Minor.
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