How to paint a car in your garage. |
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How to paint a car in your garage. |
scotty b |
Feb 17 2006, 04:26 PM
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#21
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Yes Glasurit is expensive, but I agree 2500.00 is rediculous. Glasurit is not much more than Spies which is what I'm used to. I've never shot Glas personally but I've heard it is a little complicated because it HAS to be shot wet on wet, meaning primer doesn't flash, base doesn't flash and then clear. This also means if you screw up at any step you get to sit for a day, sand it out and start all over. Anyone with real Glasurit experience here??? |
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TJB/914 |
Feb 17 2006, 04:51 PM
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#22
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Mid-Engn. Group: Members Posts: 4,327 Joined: 24-February 03 From: Plymouth & Petoskey, MI Member No.: 346 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Scotty,
I know my $2,500 might be a little high by $500 bucks. My painter was stealing from me. He added a few extra's to do a few side jobs (Harleys). You don't argue with someone tattoed and chains through the nose. How do you feel about the estimated hours??? Tom |
1bad914 |
Feb 17 2006, 05:03 PM
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#23
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 618 Joined: 6-May 04 From: Battle Creek, MI Member No.: 2,028 |
Sorry I have not responded yet. I'm on vacation and have limited computer access for the moment. I'm in my son's college apartment in Bloomington, IN right now on my way to sunny Florida! I'll answer the questions later!
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Brian Mifsud |
Feb 17 2006, 05:06 PM
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#24
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
Thanks Randy. Excellent Work...
Andy... is there a Tech Articles Section on 914club? If not, this should be the Flagship Article |
tdgray |
Feb 17 2006, 05:06 PM
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#25
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Thank God Nemo is not here to see this Group: Members Posts: 9,705 Joined: 5-August 03 From: Akron, OH Member No.: 984 Region Association: None |
Absolutely there are different grades of paint... I used to work for a jobber (auto paint store).
I would rank it like this for expense and quality, excluding custom stuff like house-of-kolor etc. Glassurit (german, owed by BASF) Spies Hecker (now owed by Dupont) Dupont PPG RM (including Diamont and the like - BASF) Sherwin Williams Nason ( Dupont cheapy line) Azko-Nobel Western (Sherwin Williams cheapy) PPG - cheapy line ( can't remember the name) RM cheapy line (can't remember the name) All the other off-brand stuff (Valspar etc) That covers most of 'em. I am a BIG fan of Glassurit product... VERY EXPENSIVE though... eultimate for high dollar restorations. |
pete-stevers |
Feb 17 2006, 05:45 PM
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#26
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saved from fire! Group: Members Posts: 2,641 Joined: 10-October 04 From: Abbotsford,BC, Canada Member No.: 2,914 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
that is fantastic for info on "red neck painting"
Well done!!!!!! that is my kinda painting |
scotty b |
Feb 17 2006, 06:37 PM
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#27
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Thomas, it's kind of hard to say on the time since that would vary by the car, and the owners desires. Is the 500-600 hrs. for ALL of the body werk or only the painting? 500-600 hours for a car that needs minimal body werk, should yield a VERY nice job, but not perfect. Wet sanding will depend on how good the painter is from the start, but on a nice job it can be easy to spend 3-4 days wet sanding and buffing for high quality results.High quality being much better than the finish on a higher end factory car. Benz,Porsche,Caddy etc. Most of the factory paint jobs on your typical cars are actually pretty crappy. When I do a collision job I have to paint at a lower level to create the right amount of orange peel. I have found that using a 1.3 tip does a good job of orange peel matching, vs. the 1.4 I use for nicer jobs. I keep thinking I'm going to do a painting article for the site, ("basic" info on paint, and what to look for and watch out for)but I never have the time to sit down and focus (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) |
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URY914 |
Feb 17 2006, 08:37 PM
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#28
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 120,662 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
I used the Nason stuff on my car and it is thin and cheap, but that what I wanted. I used the same gallon I sot it with two years ago and it came out OK for my car. If I was doing a street car I'd go with somein' else,
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dan10101 |
Feb 17 2006, 11:17 PM
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#29
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TORQUE-o-holic Group: Members Posts: 1,140 Joined: 29-April 03 From: Eagle Point, Or Member No.: 626 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Randy,
Thanks for this excellent document. It really helps understand the process better, (and the work invoived. We'll probably have a couple of paint jobs to do in the near future and if nothing else, we'll have a better idea on prep work. Thanks for all your hard work putting this together. DanD |
1bad914 |
Feb 20 2006, 06:50 PM
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#30
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 618 Joined: 6-May 04 From: Battle Creek, MI Member No.: 2,028 |
Thanks for all the attah boys.
The materials for this car including primer, sand paper, paint , clear and just about everything came to just under $400.00. I have about 20 hours into wet sanding and polishing just the body and fenders, not including doors and hoods. I have used Dupont and DBC PPG paint and could not tell much difference in the two as far as coverage and finish quality. I use PPG Omni a lot and find that for the money you can't beat it, the worst thing I see about it is that you almost have to put a third coat of color on, but I also put three coats of Dupont and DBC on. For the money it works for me. Any other questions? |
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