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> How to paint a car in your garage.
scotty b
post Feb 17 2006, 04:26 PM
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rust free you say ?
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QUOTE (Thomas J Bliznik @ Feb 17 2006, 02:08 PM)
Todd,

I know, I know. Sikkens & Glassurite (spelling??) German paints are very, very expensive. It's my understanding once a painter uses them they really like the results. Stuff goes on real nice and can make an amateur job easy.

Tom

Yes Glasurit is expensive, but I agree 2500.00 is rediculous. Glasurit is not much more than Spies which is what I'm used to. I've never shot Glas personally but I've heard it is a little complicated because it HAS to be shot wet on wet, meaning primer doesn't flash, base doesn't flash and then clear. This also means if you screw up at any step you get to sit for a day, sand it out and start all over. Anyone with real Glasurit experience here???
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TJB/914
post Feb 17 2006, 04:51 PM
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Scotty,

I know my $2,500 might be a little high by $500 bucks. My painter was stealing from me. He added a few extra's to do a few side jobs (Harleys). You don't argue with someone tattoed and chains through the nose.

How do you feel about the estimated hours???

Tom
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1bad914
post Feb 17 2006, 05:03 PM
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Sorry I have not responded yet. I'm on vacation and have limited computer access for the moment. I'm in my son's college apartment in Bloomington, IN right now on my way to sunny Florida! I'll answer the questions later!
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Brian Mifsud
post Feb 17 2006, 05:06 PM
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Thanks Randy. Excellent Work...

Andy... is there a Tech Articles Section on 914club? If not, this should be the Flagship Article
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tdgray
post Feb 17 2006, 05:06 PM
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Absolutely there are different grades of paint... I used to work for a jobber (auto paint store).

I would rank it like this for expense and quality, excluding custom stuff like house-of-kolor etc.

Glassurit (german, owed by BASF)
Spies Hecker (now owed by Dupont)
Dupont
PPG
RM (including Diamont and the like - BASF)
Sherwin Williams
Nason ( Dupont cheapy line)
Azko-Nobel
Western (Sherwin Williams cheapy)
PPG - cheapy line ( can't remember the name)
RM cheapy line (can't remember the name)
All the other off-brand stuff (Valspar etc)


That covers most of 'em.

I am a BIG fan of Glassurit product... VERY EXPENSIVE though... eultimate for high dollar restorations.


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pete-stevers
post Feb 17 2006, 05:45 PM
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that is fantastic for info on "red neck painting"
Well done!!!!!!
that is my kinda painting
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scotty b
post Feb 17 2006, 06:37 PM
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QUOTE (Thomas J Bliznik @ Feb 17 2006, 02:51 PM)
Scotty,

I know my $2,500 might be a little high by $500 bucks. My painter was stealing from me. He added a few extra's to do a few side jobs (Harleys). You don't argue with someone tattoed and chains through the nose.

How do you feel about the estimated hours???

Tom

Thomas, it's kind of hard to say on the time since that would vary by the car, and the owners desires. Is the 500-600 hrs. for ALL of the body werk or only the painting? 500-600 hours for a car that needs minimal body werk, should yield a VERY nice job, but not perfect. Wet sanding will depend on how good the painter is from the start, but on a nice job it can be easy to spend 3-4 days wet sanding and buffing for high quality results.High quality being much better than the finish on a higher end factory car. Benz,Porsche,Caddy etc. Most of the factory paint jobs on your typical cars are actually pretty crappy. When I do a collision job I have to paint at a lower level to create the right amount of orange peel. I have found that using a 1.3 tip does a good job of orange peel matching, vs. the 1.4 I use for nicer jobs. I keep thinking I'm going to do a painting article for the site, ("basic" info on paint, and what to look for and watch out for)but I never have the time to sit down and focus (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)
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URY914
post Feb 17 2006, 08:37 PM
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I used the Nason stuff on my car and it is thin and cheap, but that what I wanted. I used the same gallon I sot it with two years ago and it came out OK for my car. If I was doing a street car I'd go with somein' else,
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dan10101
post Feb 17 2006, 11:17 PM
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Randy,
Thanks for this excellent document. It really helps understand the process better, (and the work invoived. We'll probably have a couple of paint jobs to do in the near future and if nothing else, we'll have a better idea on prep work.

Thanks for all your hard work putting this together.
DanD
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1bad914
post Feb 20 2006, 06:50 PM
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Thanks for all the attah boys.

The materials for this car including primer, sand paper, paint , clear and just about everything came to just under $400.00.

I have about 20 hours into wet sanding and polishing just the body and fenders, not including doors and hoods.

I have used Dupont and DBC PPG paint and could not tell much difference in the two as far as coverage and finish quality. I use PPG Omni a lot and find that for the money you can't beat it, the worst thing I see about it is that you almost have to put a third coat of color on, but I also put three coats of Dupont and DBC on. For the money it works for me.

Any other questions?
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