Rust repair Questions, Welding, cutting, POR15ing, etc. Options

[elocke]

Then the bottom layer with flange to meet the outer rocker.

[elocke]

This piece is the end of the outer rocker, shaped like the original and with a flange to overlap with the lower wheelhouse piece. I almost forgot to put the heater tube back in; duh
Ed

[elocke]

This piece overlaps the outer rocker, as will the next, which yields an area of 3 layers. I left a small sill on the edge of the piece to sit the final lower wheelhouse-type piece in after grinding.

[elocke]

Outer layer installation.

[elocke]

I didn't make the parts with the dents for the jack tube on purpose. Now I wish I had...oh well. The thought was to make it at least as strong as factory.

[rjames]

Ed- Fantastic job you're doing!!

How did you cut out the layer of metal without disturbing the layer behind it? (see below pick).




Are you using 18 gauge metal for this?

Also I'd be interested in knowing what you (or others) are using to cut the sheet metal pieces. I bought some metal snips today, and it seems like it would be very difficult to actually cut any long pieces of metal with them.

[rjames]

Figured I'd attach a couple of pictures of the shiny parts of the floor pans. I haven't treated them yet, and I got them down to the bare metal just using a 1/4" drill and a lot of different attachments. I was going to use the metal ready, but seeing as the OSPHO is getting rave reviews, I went and picked up some. The stuff was only 13 bucks for a 1/2 gallon. Pretty cheap. I plan to coat it with black cololred POR15 afterwards.

[rjames]

'nother. Stupid camera phone isn't the best for taking pictures...

Really the only issues are with the driver's side, rear area. The rest of the pan is good all around, with hardly any rust pitting if any, at all.

[elocke]

Thanks...this was the pinnacle of the rust repair work. I think I used 20 gauge (.036). I cut the outer layer using a dremmel w/cutoff wheel (lots of 'em), drill for spot welds, snips to cut the new pieces and roughly cut old pieces out, hand-held hacksaw blades. I hardly ever used my 41/2" cutoff tool...too jumpy. I used a vise and ball peen to make bends. Cuts and welds for more complex shapes. I had looked into building my own bending brake and buying a bead roller but never did. I treated the pieces with Metal Ready and primed the weldable edges with weld-thru primer. This was before I tried Ospho. The red in there is Eastwoods rust encapsulator, which I sprayed into both rockers before I found (or started looking for) rust. I've got tons more pics of other rust repairs...under the gas tank, front of both rockers, f & r trunk, front bumper mounts, hell-holel, door sills, lower door jamb. Let me know if you need more.
Ed

[turbo914v8]

I have these parts put together as one. I purchased it new and ended up not using it. It’s up for sale $100.00 US plus shipping. PM me if you need it and your interested.


(IMG:http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/chassis/914_chassis/P330.jpg)(IMG:http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/chassis/914_chassis/P331.jpg)

[rjames]

QUOTE

This piece overlaps the outer rocker, as will the next, which yields an area of 3 layers.

Ed, why 3 layers? Did you feel this was necessary for added strength in this area?


I really appreciate all the info.

Tomorrow I will start cutting out the bad stuff. I lucked out and found a sheet metal place that was willing to give me scraps in trade for beer and/or dougnuts. Not a bad deal!

One question on the weld-through primer, it's only used on places where 2 pieces of metal are overlapping, or 'sandwiched' together, right? Is it only applied only exactly where welds are going to happen? Does it also protect from rusting?


I'll post pics as the process continues tomorrow.

..and Turbo- thanks for the offer. It looks as though you have the sheet metal for the passenger side. At the moment it looks as though I've only got mild surface rust in that area, nothing that would require any cutting out of metal. However, if this changes I'll keep you in mind! Thanks! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

[elocke]

I basically copied the factory layout. When I cut out the rusty stuff, I observed what the pieces looked like and how they connected and did it that way. This results in 3 layers at the interface of the back edge of the outer rocker, the inner layer, and the lower wheelhouse front edge.
I could have just slapped a thick piece over the rusted area or the long repair kit from RD but I was paranoid that I'd still rust from the inside out.
Here are some methods I used as far as metal treatment goes. This could be the wrong way and I'm sure there are better ways. THere are several metal treatment products, all with their own +'s and -'s. At first I was spraying the entire repair piece with weld-thru primer. I'd strip as best I could the surface on the car that I was welding to and apply metal ready. Then I'd mask off the weld area, apply the primer, and weld. Then I decided to treat the entire patch piece with metal ready, mask off the weld area, apply weld primer, and weld. Weld thru primer is a pain to weld. It seems to me (right or wrong) that have to turn up the heat or weld for longer. So basically my thought was to use the weld primer at the weld joints and metal ready for the rest. My intension was then to spray the insides again with either POR15 or Eastwoods rust encapsulator, which I haven't done yet. I have a great Pelican article on drilling holes in the longs and spraying the insides with a wand.
I'd love to hear some feedback on rust protection on repairs because I still have some doubts as to how I did it.
Ed

[lotus_65]

assuming the following:

repairs have been *reasonably* well done,

rust inhibator used where *reasonably* possible,

the car only sees water from car washing and an occasional rainstorm,

how much more is it going to rust? i guess i'm just getting a little freaked by this dialog...

[rjames]

My guesses:
If there is rust still present, then that area is going to keep on rusting unless fully 'encapsulated'. Bare untreated metal will rust eventually as moisture gets to it (regardless of whether you are the one splashing the water on it) due to humidity in the air.

[rjames]

QUOTE

I treated the pieces with Metal Ready and primed the weldable edges with weld-thru primer.

Isn't Metal Ready made to be used as 'weld-thru primer'? On the container it says that it provides 'excellent connectivity for welding' or something like that. My thinking was that I didn't need the weld-thru primer if I was using the Metal Ready....



More pictures of the progress: I metal readied the floor pans, and then Applied black POR15 over all but the rear driver's side pan which pretty much needs to be completely cut out:

[rjames]

'nother

[rjames]

..

[rjames]

I need to cut this piece out due to too many holes. Anyone cutting up a car? I'll probably need to order from RD.

[rjames]

Also a couple of more questions for anyone and everyone:


1) In order to remove a section of the door sill to cut/reweld part of the longs,
do I just drill out the spot welds and then make the cut above the section I need?
And if so, how do I put it back in when there will then be holes drilled through where
the welds were? Do I have to fill all of the holes on the part of the sill I cut out so
I can then have something to weld to? (I'm probably not explaining my question very well..)


2) if using metal ready, do I really need to use weld-thru primer also?

3) According to the POR15 directions, I am supposed to apply at least 2 coatings of the stuff. Is this really necessary on the floor pans? It also says to apply additional coats 3 hours after applying the previous coat, when it's still slightly tacky. If I do need to apply another coat, the previous coat has been drying for 24 hours now. Is it too late to apply a second coat?

that stuff is no fun to work with btw. However seeing shiny black on my floor boards when the stuff was wet makes me want to repaint the entire car.... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

[scotty b]

drill out the spot welds with a good spot weld cutter, thenremove the panel. You will more then likely need a chisel and hammer to cut the outer portions of each spot weld loose since the cutter won't get it all. Hole saw type spot weld cutters will do the job but not nicely, they want to walk around and will eventually break a tooth (teeth) making it useless. Most body shops carry a nice bit that is about 20.00, but it will last and is a traditional style bit. After applying the metal ready and welding, simply apply another coat over the weld and inbetween the panels if you can, then cover it with a suitable sealer coat.You will have to watch when you break throught the outer piece of metal and stop in order to not go through the inner section. This will allow you to re-weld the sill (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) t