Decisions, decisions, I'd pull out my hair if I weren't bald Options

[BigDBass]

I've been shopping for a few months now for my first 914. I'm looking for a driver that I can get on the road as soon as Chicago weather permits. I'd love to give autocross etc a shot eventually, but I suspect that that's quite a ways down the road. I have no experience working on cars but am willing to learn and understand I'll have to.

Several weeks ago I took a ride to 914 Ltd/Brad Mayeur's place to look at a Malaga Red '75 1.8 that he is selling for another customer. The price is $2500 firm. This car was listed in the classifieds here but has expired and been deleted.

I've been debating about this car for awhile now, mainly because I wanted to check out some other cars to compare, but there is not a lot to be found around Chicago. I've seen some cars that appeared decent on ebay and Collector Car Trader, but nothing in the Chicago area and I'm hesitant to go through those routes. I'm not sure if I'd be better off paying $1000-1500 to have a car shipped rather than put that money into this car. I believe (as does Brad) that this car is about as good as I would find in the area in my price range, and it seems to me that buying from Brad would be a good move.

Some photos are available here: Photos

Below is everything I can remember that I know needs to be addressed with the car. Listed mostly in order of importance as best as I can come up with. The list looks more painful after putting it together from scraps of notes and emails etc.

• Needs brakes from sitting for 10+ years. Can get rotors,calipers,pads from wrecked 74 with new brakelines for $250 parts and/or another $300 or so for labor.
  
• Throttle pedal hinge needs replacement.
  
• Horn sounds like a dying roadrunner's last gasp.
  
• Turn signal switch must be held so likely need to replace it.
  
• Pushrod tube seals - hopefully will address "wet" engine. valve adjust at same time. Can have this done for ~$200.
  
• Final muffler is swiss cheese and needs replaced. Bursch?
  
• Fuel tank - Por-15 kit or send to radiator shop. sat with gas in tank for 10+ years.
  
• Support bar(?) under engine is on an angle towards rear - brackets bent?
  
  
• battery tray has hole in center but is solid.
  
• hellhole appears solid but need to clean it up.
  
• rocker covers ok but rusted, so probably replace.
  
• longs are solid and seemingly clean.
  
• jackplate on driverside had rusthole. was repaired and painted, looks OK for now.
  
  
• rust by antenna. rusted through. same spot on passenger side starting.
  
• rust on both doors. probably replace doors.
  
• will probably be plenty of other surface/body rust to be found.
  
• missing O and C on engine grill lettering.
  
• Riviera wheels - caps are trashed. Unsure if VW or Porsche Rivieras?
  
• shoddy repaint. overspray on trunk seals,etc. will need to repaint.
  
  
• no cracks in dash. rest of interior is in good shape.
  
• console - CB mounting leaves screwholes in console.
  
• need new driver side interior door panel, straighten out gauge mania.
  
• trunks appear fine.
  
• floorpan appears fine.
  
• tires - 165s. tread decent but old rubber. Can the rivieras handle 205s?
  

I could have Brad do the brake work along with doing the push rod tube seals and valve adjustment so it's done with before I have the car. That will still leave me with a heck of a project list but I want to trust the brakes and I don't want to screw up the engine right off the bat.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice, analysis on value, and/or input on the above issues as far as difficulty for newbie, cost, alternatives, etc.

[lapuwali]

If you don't (yet) know much about working on cars, and you'd like a car that actually runs, not a project, then start looking on Craigslist for SF and LA. Plan on spending about $5000 + $1000 shipping to get a nice rust-free car that has no serious problems. You'll have about 3-4 cars to choose from every month.

If you spend less than that buying the car, you'll end up spending more than that over the next couple of years fixing stuff. $2500 is a good price for a project or a beater, but not for a "decent" car. Even a $5000 car would likely require things like suspension bushings and shocks before it was a decent AX car.

If you find a car you like the looks of on CL, ask here for a PPI and you'll likely get at least one for free, and recommendations on how to get the car to a known shop for a good one you'd pay for. This is usually very cheap insurance.

I wouldn't pay more than $1500 for the pictured car. Too much rust is visible, and there's certain to be more, and perhaps a lot more. The '75s are the least desirable years, unless you like the big-bumpered look (some do).

[GWN7]

$3250 for a 914 with new brakes that needs a little TLC

Go for it.....

You can do the fix ups when you have time and resources available......While the rust does look ugly, you have looked in most of the important places that it usually occurs.

I would have a compression/leak down test done on the mtr before springing. For $50 it will give you peace of mind that the mtr dosen't need to be rebuilt rightaway.

[Dr. Roger]

i dunno.... IMHO,

i'd be inclined to fly out to boxters place and find a clean west coaster and drive it home. zero rust and no worries for a non-mechanical type of guy.

there's a lot of labor in all of those items listed above. a lot of it requiring time and knoweldge.

if you are a do it yourselfer at heart and are really going to jump into doing lots of work on her, i'd say "look west young man" =-))))

[wbergtho]

Hey Dr. Roger,

It was fun B.S.ing at 2am the other day with you. I agree with your comments here. A rust free CA car will pay very big dividends in the future. Both the 914's I've have owned came from CA and I wouldn't look anywhere in the midwest.

Bill

[Engman]

Brad will treat you right. Many people here have dealt with him. Square shooter and a great guy.


M

[GaroldShaffer]

I have seen that car in person. I will say this, you can trust Brad to his word. He is a square shooter and I have delt alot with him & Michael since back in 1990 when I got my first 914. Yes the car needs work, its not overly pretty, but for $2500 in our rust belt area it is a fair price. I was looking at it for my brother in law but he (b-inlaw) wants a newer mini.

You can find better 914's in our Chicagoland area but you will pay more also. What is your price range? what are you must haves? How far are you willing to travel?

I would suggest looking on local PCA websites, here, pelican, and rennlist. Most PCA regions let you post a WTB ad free on their websites and in newsletters if they send one out.

I'm always looking for parts cars, so if I find anything that looks decent I will let ya know.

[BigDBass]

Thanks for the responses!

I'm 110% comfortable with Brad. He's been extremely generous with his time educating me both on the phone and in person.

I'd put my max price at $4000, but that'd be pushing it. I see this as just the "price of admission". As far as travel, I'd say close enough that I could be there and back to check it out/buy without an overnight stay, but I'm flexible for the right car. I can't really do a $5k car + shipping. If I miraculously found a fantastic value out west that I knew would drive back to Chicago, I'd be tempted by both the car and the prospect of adventure.

Must haves? Must be able to have it on the road as quickly as possible to enjoy with my (pregnant) wife as a couple before baby arrives in mid-July. Beyond that, it can be on and off jackstands (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) as time allows, with projects appropriate for developing my skills from scratch. I just want to drive it for awhile and take my time learning the DIY (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif). In a few years, maybe I'll be up for upgrading or stripping/blasting/rebuilding or whatever other surprises will pop up, but I can't commit to that for a long while.

I'd like to stick to stock fuel injection as that choice seems to be the concensus. I'd prefer the years with side-shift trans for the same reason. Naturally, I'd like to find a 2.0L, but it seems I could easily swap to that down the road if I get to the point of actually needing the boost. Sure, one day I want it to be a spotless 5-lug GT flared beauty powered by a Raby type IV etc etc, but at the moment I barely understand what any of that stuff means! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/drooley.gif)

As far as the 75-76s having the "ugly" heavy bumpers and heavy reinforced doors, I'm inclined to look at these as positives from the safety standpoint, durability, and bang-for-the-buck. I don't really mind the look of those bumpers.

[ninefourteener]

Agreed..... on both accounts....

Brad M is a good guy. If he says the car is something..... it is.

However...... I recommend just forking over some extra cash, and just financing..... no worries.. less garage time, more driving time.

Personally... sometimes I wonder if a lot of the folks in here are just glutons for punishment.. or actually like to see their cars on jackstands. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

As for the tranny? A well rebuilt tailshifter works just fine. If it drives well, I wouldn't worry about it too much. A 2.0 is desireable... but hey..... you're not gonna win too many drag races in a 914 anyway.....

Well.... unless you fork over for a Raby motor

New bumpers? Old bumpers? Whatever.. buy what you like

But.... you WILL regret saving some $$$ and buying a rustbucket.... there's a reason they're cheap. spend a little more... buy a clean one

Best of luck!

[Dr. Roger]

QUOTE (wbergtho @ Mar 8 2006, 07:58 PM)

Hey Dr. Roger, It was fun B.S.ing at 2am the other day with you. I agree with your comments here. A rust free CA car will pay very big dividends in the future. Both the 914's I've have owned came from CA and I wouldn't look anywhere in the midwest. Bill

Thanks Bill,
I did too. =-))

it's soooo worth it to wait and find a car that has already had much of the nickel and dime stuff already done. they are out there.

think about it.

plenty of west coast guys to check it out for you.
negotiate a price on the phone contingent on a test drive by you.
get a one way ticket on jet blue (cheap)
drive all the way home with a huge smile on your face and take lots of pictures to show off the new car to us. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

you'll be glad you did.

[BigDBass]

Alrighty, now I have further options running through my head... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

I'm normally debt averse to the extreme. Our credit card balances are reset to $0 every statement, and both our late-90s Cherokees are paid for. Only that pesky mortgage is hanging over our collective heads, but that should be paid off 16 years ahead of schedule. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

So keeping that in mind, I am considering a different approach in light of the non-club feedback above. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif) My initial plan was to try to keep the purchase price down with the expectation of putting money and time into it periodically in the future. Now I'm pondering reallocating those expected cash flows to finding a more expensive car, using my initial budget as a 50%ish downpayment, and getting an auto loan (gasp). So perhaps a $6000 would be well worth the difference? Any suggestion of a good number to work with?