 Door gap adjustment, Messed up my door gap |
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| agrump |
  Mar 27 2006, 11:29 AM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 141 Joined: 13-November 04 From: Atlanta, GA Member No.: 3,103  |
I messed up my passenger side door gap when I welded in a Engman long kit. The gap was fine before welding. The drivers side gap did not change but the passenger side gap at the top rear of the door is now about half of what it was. Yep, I tried putting it on jacks before welding but that messed up the door gaps like crazy. Now that is's all welding up, Can I adjust it or should I just live with it?
BTW, the long kit really helped stiffen the car up a lot. The feel of the car is 100% improved, the suspension use to feel too harsh over bumps as if the suspension where crashing into them instead of absorbing the shock. Now it feels like the suspension is actually working. I also noticed that the gab at the top of the window toward the rear does not flex nearly as much as it use to while driving down the hwy. |
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| 914itis |
Mar 28 2011, 09:01 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,892 Joined: 9-October 10 From: New York City Member No.: 12,256 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(agrump @ Mar 27 2006, 01:29 PM)  I messed up my passenger side door gap when I welded in a Engman long kit. The gap was fine before welding. The drivers side gap did not change but the passenger side gap at the top rear of the door is now about half of what it was. Yep, I tried putting it on jacks before welding but that messed up the door gaps like crazy. Now that is's all welding up, Can I adjust it or should I just live with it? BTW, the long kit really helped stiffen the car up a lot. The feel of the car is 100% improved, the suspension use to feel too harsh over bumps as if the suspension where crashing into them instead of absorbing the shock. Now it feels like the suspension is actually working. I also noticed that the gab at the top of the window toward the rear does not flex nearly as much as it use to while driving down the hwy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) |
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| PRS914-6 |
Mar 28 2011, 09:25 PM
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#3
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Excellence Magazine Project 914 3.6 Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,278 Joined: 20-May 06 From: Central California Member No.: 6,031 Region Association: None  |
This is a common problem that is caused by not fitting the kit properly and/or welding too much or too much in one area.
The key is to grind the body and the kit until it fits PERFECT with no gaps. It takes a little trimming here and there as the kit actually fits too close. NO GAPS!!!! Use big C clamps top to bottom and jamb a couple of 2x4's across the middle to hold everything snug. Weld a hole front, rear, top, bottom always going to opposite ends. Repeat. Don't weld the edges except for a couple of 1" beads here and there. I used this method and my doors fit perfect when done. It's a nicely made kit and makes a noticeable difference but needs to be installed carefully |
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| Mike Bellis |
Mar 28 2011, 10:06 PM
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#4
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None
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You will have to cut and reweld to fix it. Put a jack under the rear door gap and cut a vertical line in the kit right above the jack. You should be able to raise the jack then and make the gap correct. Brace the door and reweld the cut you made. Weld a little at a time and let it cool between passes. Thsi should get it real close.
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