Hyfire VIa Wiring, Help ! Options

[MarkV]

I installed a Hyfire VIa yesterday. The car starts up and idles fine. Took it for a spin and it shut off after about a block. It will restart but then dies again. Made it home after restarting it 3 or 4 times. Can't restart it without using the starter, won't restart with momentum & the clutch.

I am using a Mallory dual point dizzy & a Pertronix 1.6 ohm Blaster coil w/ no ballast.

It is wired as follows: I have the large red wire going to the battery & the large black wire to chassis ground. The small black wire to the - side of the coil & the orange wire to the + side of the coil. The white wire goes to the points lug on the dizzy. The small red key on wire is going to the old + coil wire from the harness.

Oh & my tach doesn't work. Hooked the tach trigger wire up to yellow wire from the box and the tach does nothing.

The diagnostic LED glow solid while it is running & shuts off when it dies.

[Joe Ricard]

I don't have any idea.
But my .914 cents worth is my car runs great without it.
I was running a 009 with compufire trigger and a Mallory hyfire box.
car became more hard starting till finally no start. ran kinda sporatic boardering on crappy.

pulled the box and ran it on the 009 petronics coil . ran great.

since then I went to the Mallory dizzy and Mallory pro E coil. Pulls hard and only thing I wish I had was a rev limiter. 7000 RPM comes up to quickly.

[maf914]

I have a Hyfire VIA that has not been installed so I checked the connection diagrams and your discription is as shown for a points distributor. So, your wiring looks good, except that the instructions indicate the large black wire is to be connected to the battery negative and you went to ground. Could your ground not be complete?

Did you change the box from 8-cylinder to 4 or 6 cylinder operation as described in the instructions?

I hate problems like this, because I always start wondering if the various components have failed. You could go back and disconnect the box and see if it runs with the distributor and coil, then rewire the box.

[yeahmag]

Does the coil get hot? Are you positive you have a good ground and positive connection? The tach problem may be that you need the tach driver box. Some need it... Some don't.

-Aarpm

[Aaron Cox]

ok - i have been there done that on almost all aspects of the silly CDI hyfire box....

TACH - check this out. all you need to do is jumper the initial signal resistor on early silver center tachs.... 74+ work fine..... do a seach. Agrump did it, and i did a blurb on it also

Coil - dump the pertronix. I started with the blue coil (bosch), i would get an intermittant miss.... went to a 1.5 ohm pertronix coil... all it did was move the miss higher into the RPM range.... i called mallory/mr gasket tech.... buy a CDI coil. i like the promaster e coil from centeuryperformance.com (like NO IMPEDANCE vs 1.5 + ohms......)

YOU NEED TO MOVE THE LARGE BLACK WIRE TO A BETTER GROUND. OR DIRECTLY TO NEG terminal on the battery. made a difference for me!!!!

lemme know if you need any more assistance...

[MarkV]

I flipped the dip switches to 4cyl operation per the instructions.

The coil doesn't get hot.

The LED is supposed to flash 3 times when you turn the key on, it doesn't. If I apply 12v to the small red wire via the battery the LED does flash 3 times. The instructions say to wire the small red wire to a key on 12v source. Seems like the coil 12v + wire from the harness is the best source so that is how I have it wired. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

I expected a problem with the tach. I have an extra tach that I may modify with a jumper & see if that works.

[Aaron Cox]

yes, the original switched + coil wire is used to "tell the box when to turn on and sense cranking"

with a unilite you split that source into the box and into the dizzy

doing this off memory -
BIG red = + battery
BIG black = - battery
Small red = switched + (original + coil wire from engine harness)
Yellow = tach
white - triggering wire from dizzy.....
orange = + coil?
black = - coil?

green/purple Not used

[maf914]

Aaron,

Do you use a ballast resistor on the Mallory Promaster coil? The coil instructions show a balast resistor when the coil is connected to the ignition switch. But this is without a Hyfire IVA box.

The instructions for the Hyfire IVA do not indicate a ballast resistor. In this case the box is connected to the ignition switch via a small red wire and the coil is connected to the orange and small black wires from the box. The coil indicated is just a generic coil.

Thanks.

[Aaron Cox]

QUOTE (maf914 @ Mar 27 2006, 02:16 PM)

Aaron, Do you use a ballast resistor on the Mallory Promaster coil? The coil instructions show a balast resistor when the coil is connected to the ignition switch. But this is without a Hyfire IVA box. The instructions for the Hyfire IVA do not indicate a ballast resistor. In this case the box is connected to the ignition switch via a small red wire and the coil is connected to the orange and small black wires from the box. The coil indicated is just a generic coil. Thanks.

no ballast resistor for CDI setups.....


if just running a unilite - i think you need a total impedance of 3 ohms (most bosch blue coils are 3 ohm)

[MarkV]

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Mar 27 2006, 12:02 PM)

TACH - check this out. all you need to do is jumper the initial signal resistor on early silver center tachs.... 74+ work fine..... do a seach. Agrump did it, and i did a blurb on it also

Did the tach mod work for you?

[Aaron Cox]

QUOTE (MarkV @ Mar 27 2006, 03:55 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Mar 27 2006, 12:02 PM) TACH - check this out. all you need to do is jumper the initial signal resistor on early silver center tachs.... 74+ work fine..... do a seach. Agrump did it, and i did a blurb on it also Did the tach mod work for you?

yes.

worked great for months.... then i took the car apart and painted it. now it doesnt LOL. i have a bad ground somewhere im guessing..

AA

[yeahmag]

Sure seems like you just have a 'bad' 12V+ keyed source. Please tell me that 12V wire isn't on the coil still... Try verifying you are getting 12V from the coil source.

-Aaron

[Joe Ricard]

I shacky connection will kill this thing and produce the symptoms you have. Then one day it dies.
Unless the dyno syays it makes a ton of power I say screw it. just one more thing to fuss with.

[MarkV]

Running the heavy black wire to the battery seems to have fixed it. Has a miss around 3-4000 rpm. Probably need to play around with the plug gap. May need to buy an e-coil.

Here is a photo. Had a hard time figuring out where to mount it. Didn't want to drill holes in the firewall after welding all of the old holes up & painting it.

[Aaron Cox]

the miss is only cured with the CDI E coil....

and pleaser get it off the motor. i have a pic in my blog, i mounted it on the firewall.... vibration killz them....


seems you have exhausted the same problems i had...
motor ground to chassis ground....
miss with high impedance coil to CDI ultra low impedance coil...

lemme know if you have any tach/cdi/unilite/hyfire questions

Aaron Cox
951 833 5311

[Aaron Cox]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/blog-1136083912.jpg)

[MarkV]

It's not that close to the motor. Mounted on the rear firewall on a bracket I made. I dont want to mount anything on the front firewall. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif)

[MarkV]

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