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> Megasquirt Update, with PICS
yarin
post Mar 28 2006, 09:37 PM
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I Was about to dig up my old thread from two months ago... but I felt some of these pics deserve there own thread.

I'm really moving along on my upgrade from carbs to MS. I should be able to power up the system this weekend and crank it the following weekend.

I chose a rather different approach to my install, a combination of logic, simplicity and durability. Please give me your input. For those who aren't familiar with MS go to www.megasquirt.info and www.msefi.com (forums).

I bought all of my Megasquirt parts from DIYautotune.com. Excellent vendor, i suggest doing business with them for anything.

What's left:

finish db-37 connector
connect all wires in relay box
mount intake plenum, connect DIY PVC intake
install gas tank
checked double check and triple check all fuel connections and wiring
configure MS
crank!!

Here are pics:


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yarin
post Mar 28 2006, 09:38 PM
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aint it purty? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/aktion035.gif)


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yarin
post Mar 28 2006, 09:39 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) i like it

Ok i'll admit it.. the injector connectors do need the outer plastic housing trimmed to fit properly on the injectors. not plug and play, but it should be a solid connection once some material is removed.

All parts sand blasted and powder coated by ME. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif)


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yarin
post Mar 28 2006, 09:40 PM
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db-37, i went the crimp route instead of the kit solder cup.


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yarin
post Mar 28 2006, 09:41 PM
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Rumor has it the DB37 connections are the biggest design issue with megasquirt.


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yarin
post Mar 28 2006, 09:41 PM
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soon to be off jacks.


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newto914s
post Mar 28 2006, 11:35 PM
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way to go yarin (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)
I like the look of the powder coated fuel rails. Very slick!
Samson
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fiid
post Mar 29 2006, 12:37 AM
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Looks clean - very nice work... good job!
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brokenmoped
post Mar 29 2006, 12:46 AM
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What happened to the panasports?
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mightyohm
post Mar 29 2006, 03:22 AM
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What gauge wire is used for the DB-37 connections? Is that a kit?

And I can't tell from the photo, but are the crimp terminals actually soldered to the wire?

I am building my own Megasquirt system as well. I am not using the relay board approach however, my harness will go straight into the ECU box in the car.
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yarin
post Mar 29 2006, 05:40 AM
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QUOTE (brokenmoped @ Mar 28 2006, 10:46 PM)
What happened to the panasports?

I have two sets of panasports with race tires. I bought a crappy street set to drive around the street for dirt cheap.

Don't worry, i'm holding onto those panasports with my life (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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yarin
post Mar 29 2006, 05:46 AM
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QUOTE (jkeyzer @ Mar 29 2006, 01:22 AM)
What gauge wire is used for the DB-37 connections? Is that a kit?

And I can't tell from the photo, but are the crimp terminals actually soldered to the wire?

I am building my own Megasquirt system as well. I am not using the relay board approach however, my harness will go straight into the ECU box in the car.

I bought the relay cable kit from DIYautotune. I would highly recommend that everyone building a MS kit does the same, even if you aren't using a relay box.

They kit comes with one end terminated and the parts to solder a db-37 connector on. In your case just chuck the db-37 parts, they dont cost anything anyway.

The wiring in the DIYautotune harness is automotive grade 20AWG with the exception of the grounds and injector wires which are 14AWG. The ignition wire is shielded with a 20AWG core. The 14AWG wires breakout into 20AWG at the DB37 end. Internal to the cable there is some sort of junction to go from 1 14ga to 3 20ga in the case of the grounds. I did the same on the side that I terminated.

The photo you are looking at is the side that I crimped. The wire I used for the grounds and injector wires is 18ga, probably a little too heavy for the crimp. So I added a touch of solder as a safety. If I had to do it again I would have used standard 20ga wire. Yes I had proper tooling to crimp these connectors on. It aint cheap to purchase.
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mikelsr
post Mar 29 2006, 05:57 AM
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Why did you elect to crimp rather than solder?
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yarin
post Mar 29 2006, 07:32 AM
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QUOTE (mikelsr @ Mar 29 2006, 03:57 AM)
Why did you elect to crimp rather than solder?

I chose crimp over solder cup for a number of reasons. Everyone has their own, here are mine.

(IMG:http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/common/images/PartImages/socket1.gif)

These are the sockets used in a crimp style SubD connector. Digikey p/n A1009-ND. It accepts 20-24AWG insulated wire.

Vibration and stress can lead to premature failure of both types of connections. A solder joint is a hard junction with no cable relief. The insulation is there to insulate the wire.

In a crimp style connection the crimp acts as a strain relief crimping onto the insulation. The electrical pin/wire connection is now subject to reduced mechanical stress.

The whole purpose of using stranded wire in applications like this is to increase durability and resistance to breakage. By soldering stranded wire, you now have solid wire. Bend both types of wires back and forth 50 times and see which breaks first.

That's just my opinion. Soldering is the easiest and cheapest method, but least reliable in my eyes. That's why all non-PCB mounted cable type connectors are crimp style.
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kconway
post Mar 29 2006, 08:10 AM
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Why not put a backshell on that db-37 connector to provide the strain relief? That type of crimp contact does not provide for a "cold weld" of the wire to the contact and is no where near the same in contact resistance to a soldered contact. Just .02 worth...
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bd1308
post Mar 29 2006, 08:28 AM
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fill the DB37 cable with epoxy when you're set?

Thats what I'm going to do.

b
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DNHunt
post Mar 29 2006, 08:35 AM
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Britt

Epoxy takes care of some of the problems but MS appeals to tinkerers like me and you'll want to change it. I suppose you could leave the cable extra long and wack off a chunk and put a new DB 37 on each time you change functions. The DB 37 is just a bad connector in this application.

Dave
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bd1308
post Mar 29 2006, 08:48 AM
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this is true. I am planning to install MS during the summer.

b
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DNHunt
post Mar 29 2006, 09:05 AM
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Try to design in fudge factor wherever you can so you can fool with it, because some new feature will require a rewire and you'll want to take advantage of it with out ripping the whole thing out. Extra length on cabling is good. Extra conductors in the cable are good. While a lot of people don't like screw terminals I put some screw terminal strips in my relay box and ran extra inputs and outputs through there so I can reconfigure the FI harness easily. No problems so far but, I do check them every once in a while.

Dave
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mightyohm
post Mar 29 2006, 10:50 AM
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I think typical crimp pins for a DB-37 are designed for 24-30 gauge wire. I have had a really hard time getting a good crimped connection to a 20 gauge wire (the wire is too fat, and my crimp tool is mediocre) so I will probably end up touching them with solder as well. The downside is that often this causes the insulation to shrink back and fail to reach the strain relief built into the pin. I am hoping that one of these days I can find a system of pins/crimper that works for 18-20 gauge wire, but I think your method should work well also.
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