Has any one modified the pedal cluster?, Via making a longer clutch lever arm? Options

[wbergtho]

I am not getting all the travel I need to fully actuate my clutch...so I decided to modify the lever arm down at the pedal cluster. I added a tab above the original hole and have made effectively a two hole lever arm. The stock hole is retained...and the new hole is about 3/4" above it to allow more travel/throw. I have a KEP stage 1 pressure plate and it requires more travel to actuate. By making the lever arm longer...a much stronger force is transmitted into the clutch shaft in the pedal box. I have found that the roll pin hole on the clutch shaft gets ovaled and the shaft itself becomes distorted when applying this King Kong force to it. As it is made only of mild steel, I have decided to repair the distorted/ ovaled end and weld it all up and grind round again. Next step...weld the fricken clutch pedal casting to the pedal box clutch shaft...hopefully eliminating the distortion damage under load. NO MORE ROLL PIN. (carry an extra cable every where I go...I know) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) I'll report back later and let you know how it worked. If I made things worse and a new pedal cluster is necessary...it won't be the end of the world. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)

ANYONE EVER RESORT TO SUCH TACTICS? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/WTF.gif)

Bill

[wbergtho]

Well...I destroyed the clutch pedal shaft where the roll pin inserts do to the added stress. I have now machined a new solid billet shaft and will install it and see if it works properly. I'm betting it will. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

[Andyrew]

Why dont you just go with a hydraulic clutch?

probably about 250 bucks with some new stuff on ebay.. pedal, M/C, solonoid (or whatever that other piece is called.. cant think now) lines, oil, and some bolts and junk.. bout a weekend of fab.. and no more clutch cables. No more king kong forced clutch (I have the same thing... I know what your talking about... first time I pressed the pedal I was like SHEEEIIT, no WAY im getting used to this!!)

Andrew

[JPB]

Friend, CNC makes a cool wet clitch kit for cheep if you need to give the new one some asssss. The slave cylinder would need some bracket to be fabed but its nothing and the new deal would reduce some weight on the buggy. Don't forget some pics since I am imaginatively challenged. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/humpy.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/humpy.gif)

[rick 918-S]

Sounds like the problem I was having. ( well one of them (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) ) I seriously thinking of switching to hydro-clutch.

[ClayPerrine]

Talk to Rich Johnson. He sells a kit to put a hydraulic clutch on your 914. There is some welding required, but it is next to the master cylinder. The rest is a bolt on.

a914guy@aol.com

[neo914-6]

Rich's was made by H&H?:

QUOTE

H&H Enterprises built a hydraulic clutch system (very OE looking) to actuate the aluminum HD pressure plate. This pull-type system uses a 928 primary cylinder and mates it to a 944 (push-type) slave cylinder. The adaptation is very neat using your OE pedal assembly. A SS fluid line passes back through the stock cable tube and connects the two cylinders. A reservior is mounted in the spare tires free corner area (right front) and is a 914 brake reservior and is mounted with the bracket that holds a similar reservoir to the 911 power assist system.

[wbergtho]

Thanks Felix,

I appreciate your information about H&H's system. I just may go to that sooner rather than later. It stinks to be sidelined w/ such petty clutch issues.

Bill

[Cap'n Krusty]

QUOTE (wbergtho @ Apr 1 2006, 11:45 AM)

I am not getting all the travel I need to fully actuate my clutch...so I decided to modify the lever arm down at the pedal cluster. I added a tab above the original hole and have made effectively a two hole lever arm. The stock hole is retained...and the new hole is about 3/4" above it to allow more travel/throw. I have a KEP stage 1 pressure plate and it requires more travel to actuate. By making the lever arm longer...a much stronger force is transmitted into the clutch shaft in the pedal box. I have found that the roll pin hole on the clutch shaft gets ovaled and the shaft itself becomes distorted when applying this King Kong force to it. As it is made only of mild steel, I have decided to repair the distorted/ ovaled end and weld it all up and grind round again. Next step...weld the fricken clutch pedal casting to the pedal box clutch shaft...hopefully eliminating the distortion damage under load. NO MORE ROLL PIN. (carry an extra cable every where I go...I know) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) I'll report back later and let you know how it worked. If I made things worse and a new pedal cluster is necessary...it won't be the end of the world. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) ANYONE EVER RESORT TO SUCH TACTICS? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/WTF.gif) Bill

Increasing the leverage on the pedal is a guaranteed way to induce the destruction of the clutch cable tube. Rip that sucker right out of its welds ................. BTW, I had the same problem with a KEP clutch on a VW bus. Tried 3 different pressure plates, and spent a LOT of time on the phone with SCAT as well as KEP. Basically, they never heard of the problem. It worked fine with a Sachs PP. Odd, huh? Not reallyu, their customer support is much like that of Permadoom. "Not our problem, you musta done something wrong"! The Cap'n

[bd1308]

echo echo echo


10 PRINT "ECHO"
20 GOTO 10

[ajracer]

Bill:

Seems you are not the only one having difficulty with a hard stiff
clutch pedal. I'm in the same position with a V8 and a Boxster tranny.
I was trying to retain the 914 cable operating (custom) linkage but
it seems too much pressure is necessary and being a little guy I have
now decided to go with the Hydraulic set-up. Planning to use the Boxster
slave cylinder BUT not sure yet on the pedal / primary cylinder needed.
(anyone have any ideas ?)

Good luck with your car and remember to keep posting progress so the
rest of us can drool !!

Allan


PS. Previously viewed some of your photos, and it looks like a real
beast and very nicely done.

[wbergtho]

Well....I have taken the trans off now to inspect the PP and it shows the PP bolts grinding on the inside of the bell housing! There is a dimensional problem with the clutch package KEP sold me. The bolt heads should not come in contact with the inside of the bell. Also the disc is only wearing on the outer 1/3 of the lining and the Sachs name & part numbers are still visible on the disc lining? WTF? I will be sending back the entire package to KEP (for the 7th time!!!!!!!!!!!!!). These guys just never get it right the first time.....I know....I've sent back shit 6 times before!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Literally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm beginning to hate these guys!!!!!!!!

[wbergtho]

Here's a pic of the grinding inside the bell of the 930!

[Andyrew]

That sucks...

I've always had very very good buisness with them...

I guess this is what happens when your running something at this high of a level..