Push rod tube install, Best way to keep the leaks away Options

[MartyYeoman]

Whats the protocol for push rod tube installation (Type-4) that will keep
leaks from forming? I want to do what will last the longest.

[Bleyseng]

Clean, clean all surfaces and install the viton seals not the green and redish ones. I liked Jakes trick of the white silicon thread sealant on lightly when installing.
Pushrod tubes must be in great shape without dents at the sealing suface

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)

[sean_v8_914]

they are prone to pinching during installation. the bore in teh head and block MUST me smoooth. teh slightest bump, scratch or surface imperfection will cause a leak.

[Joe Ricard]

If the motor is out the install is easier to do.

Then you can get a drillmotor or Dremel and run some 400 grit paper in the bore to hone them smooth.
Go slow on install making sure not to pinch the ring.
Teflon Sealant from Harware store OTAY's liquid pipe sealant in the plumbing section. Don't think there is any silicon (sand) in it. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)

[McMark]

Twist as you install and the seals will avoid pinching. Lots of twisting.

[davep]

I believe Dow Corning 111 is recommended as an O-ring lube in this application.

[Mueller]

If you get the seals from HPH, ask Rich for the "good" ones....2 versions, one a little more expensive but higher heat rated...oh yea, be very careful about the torque values on the rocker arm assy....

[Bleyseng]

Since Jake is "gone", DaveHunt, whats the silicon stuff from Jake for the tubes????Works great, but its over at the shop so I can't get the name off the label.

[dstar]

https://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/p...&cat=311&page=1

Don

[MartyYeoman]

Thanks for all the input.
The last time I changed out these seals I used high temp RTV (red colored stuff).
It lasted about 5 years (60-70K miles).
I've had good luck with the "Assembly Adhesive" from GM (Mister Goodwrench) on other applications.
I thought I might use it here also.

[sean_v8_914]

yes, twisting works(like in Jakes video). sanding a gentle lead-in chamfer to the bore helps to. Jakes recomended sealant helps fill the surface imperfections that teh hard viton o-ring can not conform to.

the good O-rings are made out of Viton(brown). it is more abrasion resistant, heat and chemical resistant than Buna(black). silicone(orange) o-rings pich the easiest of all but seal best on poor surface finishes

I sense the presence of another o-ring master. may the parker handbook be with you

[Toast]

Don't install adjustables. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)
(let the bashing begin.....)

[bd1308]

QUOTE (Toast @ Apr 5 2006, 02:21 PM)

Don't install adjustables. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) (let the bashing begin.....)

i didnt know the collapsable pushrod tubes were available for the /4s

b

[Dave_Darling]

They are, mostly for Type I people who don't realize that the Type IV pushrod tubes slide out through the heads...

BTW, there are O-rings on the ends of the tubes because they are supposed to move. When the engine grows (with heat), the outer ends of the tubes slide inward toward the centerline of the car. When the engine shrinks (cools off again), the ends of the tubes slide back out. Not much, but if you try to glue the outer ends in place you are setting yourself up for leaks.

It seems fine if you "goop" the inboard ends of the tubes--after you install them, of course, because you don't want blobs of "goop" falling into the sump. It's best if the outboard ends are lubricated, not glued. The best type of stuff for this application is a lubricant. There is a silicone paste lubricant that works well, I am told. Engine oil is the factory spec for use on both ends, BTW. They wouldn't recommend that unless they felt the ends needed to move.

--DD

[MartyYeoman]

Dave,
I'm thinking you're telling me the right story.
I seem to remember the "Don't glue-Lubricate instead" theory.
Two camps, which one will I choose?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif)

[sean_v8_914]

I recomend teh method used by the manufacturer. spend your time cleaning and smoothing the mating surfaces.

[dstar]

DD is right, the retainers keep constant tension on the PR tubes
and keep them seated in the CASE.

As the cyls and heads expand with heat, the outboard ends HAVE to
be able to slide AND keep a seal....

I don't use sandpaper. I use a 3M pad stuck between a doubled
over coat hanger, then insert the other end in a drill and spray WD40
on the pad.

Turn the drill on and *polish* the PR tube bores in the heads.

You could WELD the tubes to the case if you wanted and it
woudln't matter.

The motion is in the head.

Hey for some reason, I LIKE the sound of that!
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

Don

[MartyYeoman]

I like your polishing technique better then working with paper.
Do you have an opinion on o-ring material?

[dstar]

No silicon fer me!
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)

Well, fer O-rings anyway!

Viton is the way to go.....and I use Curil T on both o-rings/ends.

Don

[MartyYeoman]

I stopped by Bay Seal yesterday and they "sampled" me enough viton seals to reassemble the tubes onto my motor. Now I know what compound I have. No question. Tomorrow should be assembly day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)