L Jet Idle with Lights on, Why does it drop ? |
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L Jet Idle with Lights on, Why does it drop ? |
jim_hoyland |
Apr 13 2006, 01:10 PM
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#1
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,303 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Saw this question asked a couple of weeks back, but couldn't locate the responses. I now have everything working on the 1.8L L-jet, Idles perfect; except, when the headlights are turned on the idle drops from 900 to 200 ? Is this indicate the battery, coil, or ?? is weak.
And, what can I do to diagnose the problem ? I have a simple radio shack VM Thanks Jim |
MartyYeoman |
Apr 13 2006, 01:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,519 Joined: 19-June 03 From: San Ramon, CA Member No.: 839 Region Association: Northern California |
I haven't had that happen to me yet.
Sounds like it's time to cleanup under the dash a bit. Good luck |
SLITS |
Apr 13 2006, 01:28 PM
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#3
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
It does take a modicum of engine HP to generate the amperage required to keep the lights bright (and whatever other electrical devices you have). Even though, that seems like a drastic drop...I could see a 100 rpm drop at idle, but not 700 rpm.
You would need an AMP guage to see what's happening. |
rhodyguy |
Apr 13 2006, 03:04 PM
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#4
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,081 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
add in wipers, the radio, and fogs. it seems like a huge draw to me. my carbed car does the same thing and other members i've spoken with tell me theirs cars do as well. i wonder how accurate the tack is below 400rpm, which is about what my falls to (from a 950 idle).
k |
jim_hoyland |
Apr 13 2006, 03:09 PM
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#5
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,303 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
How/where do you test the amperage ?
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bd1308 |
Apr 13 2006, 04:31 PM
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#6
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Sir Post-a-lot Group: Members Posts: 8,020 Joined: 24-January 05 From: Louisville,KY Member No.: 3,501 |
pull it from the battery. get a 60-0-60 amp guage, connect the HUGE everyredwire bundle into one end of the guage, and on the other side, come out with a 8ga wire to the battery.
the needle should go over to the + side indicating your alternator is WORKING. you know what I would do? I would unplug the voltage regulator. Alternator doesn't "boot", doesnt draw any big current (field current) and wont drop your RPMs. Then use the amp meter to see what is going on. Its quite possible you have just a lotta stuff you need to power, and your engine isn't your friend when you turn all of it on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) what "I" would do is to turn everything on and set the idle at THAT point, like it says in ever manual I have read dealing with the L-jet and D-jet. The FI system is irrevelant in this case. b |
SLITS |
Apr 13 2006, 06:25 PM
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#7
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
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Brando |
Apr 13 2006, 07:36 PM
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#8
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
what "I" would do is to turn everything on and set the idle at THAT point, like it says in ever manual I have read dealing with the L-jet and D-jet. Before anyone tries doing this on an L-Jet car note: This is not the proper method of setting your idle speed/timing with L-Jet. Proper method is with both vacuum advance and vacuum retard disconnected (tubes plugged as not to read false air) from the distributor, 7.5º BTDC at 850±50 RPM. The FI system is irrevelant in this case. You win the dumb L-Jet answer award kiddo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) L-Jet is an electronic injection system. Every time an injector fires you use power. Not sure of the amperage per injector, though. No accessories on you will have the following pulling power: Starter (on startup) ECU (brain) Fuel Pump (zrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...) Guages: Tach, warning light, fuel guage, oel pressure, clock, voltage meter, stereo Dual-relay unit for injectors Finally, the injectors. When you turn the headlights on it creates a significant draw on our (45 amp?) alternators. You've got two beams pulling up to 30a each, not to mention all of those running lights. My idle drops as well, too. It's because you have an electronic fuel injection system and an alternator that can barely put out enough current to supply the draw. If you turn on your foglights and/or heater at the same time you'll see the voltage guage hover between 11/12, maybe sit right at 11 with the brake lights on. Solution: Higher output alternator, or go LED running lights with an electronic flasher unit. But you've still got both of those headlights pulling a lot of amperage each... |
SLITS |
Apr 13 2006, 08:36 PM
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#9
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Damn Brandon.....gettin' a little hostile these days.....Aaron ain't puttin' out anymore?
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jim_hoyland |
Apr 13 2006, 09:14 PM
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#10
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,303 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Thanks Brando,
I'm ok for now : the headlights are 100W; what kind of amperage do comparable cars have today ? I've been considering going 75amp |
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