1970 3.2L conversion (rust spot), started project today (worst rust spot) Options

[boxsterfan]

Ok, so I have been doing all of my planning for months now on my /6 conversion. Bought a 1970 1.7L and am going to convert to a 3.2L.

Last night, I started disassembling the car. Took of the rocker panels (PO replaced with plastic/fiberglass ones) and found what appears to be the worst rust spot on the car.

Overall for rust:

1. Front trunk: fine, some minor rust, mostly at seams (as expected), punched at it with a screwdriver and it stayed solid (did not go through). Would give it an B+ for a 30+ year old car.

2. Rear trunk: fine, little rust. Very solid and no rust back by taillights. Punched at it with screwdriver at the few rust spots seen and it is solid. All is minor surface rust. B+ for 30+ year old car.

3. Floor pans: fine, some rust in the seams as expected. No through rust. B+

4. Sail panels: some rust corroding away closest to door side at bottom. Both sides have this. Looks like it can be fixed with fiberglass. B

5. Driver side longs: In reality, very good. Jack port is rusty, but does not go through (does not wiggle all over the place). From the drivers side long back through the rear wheel housing is very solid. A-/B+

6. Battery tray: rusty. needs replaced. Underneath battery tray is very solid (minor surface rust). A-

7. Passenger side longs: The problem area. At the jack port, it is rusted out. Can almost pull jack port out. I would say the hole is about 8 inches long. Starts about 2 inches from rear. The jack point (circle) under the car is solid. The rear wheel area is very solid and was not affected by the rusted battery tray. Passed the screwdriver test. Appears to only be in this "longs" area. Grade of a C.

Basically, the only real trouble looks to be hole in the passenger longs. What are the opinions on getting this fixed?

[Brad Roberts]

That area is a pain in the ASS to repair. The fender is somewhat in the way. You can do it though. You need to pull the entire jack point support and tube off the chassis to really see what you have. I suggest buying 2-3 spot weld removal drill bits from a local body shop (walk in and ask the first person you see for them) and start removing the spot welds on the plate.


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[boxsterfan]

Thanks Brad! I am still making my mind up on dipping the car vs. media-blast. Maybe I should just dip the car and let this whole area "fall off" (at least the bad parts would be gone)?

I appreciate your knowledge. I certainly think that it can be repaired given the other posts here and what has been done to fix those 914's.

What is a good $$$$ estimate to repair this area BTW? Starting the search for local PHX body shops...

[Brad Roberts]

Your looking at 4-6 hours of labor for repair.. our body shops are 65-75$ an hour.

If your looking for a bad ass ride when your done and dont mind paying extra for all the painting.. acid dip it. If you really dont care about the underside of the car... media blast it.



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[boxsterfan]

Thanks Brad. I am looking for the bad-ass 914 when done. I read the thread earlier on this board showing a car you were working on being prepped for dipping.

I assume I need to put in the "brace" tube in the doors like you did to keep the car from potentially folding in half? Not a problem to do it, but is it really required or just being cautious?

Also will be cutting out heater mufflers (even though I am not putting heat back in the car). I know someone will be able to use them down the road.

[Brad Roberts]

The bars are strickly for safety. The car holds a lot of fluid when they are pulling it from the tanks.. it cant drain fast enough so the wieght of the fluid can cause the car to collapse. You can use square tubing. You just need something in place.


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