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> Question about 914 bodies
bd1308
post Apr 26 2006, 08:17 AM
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Would it be more economical and easier to purchase a East coast 914 body and have it shipped to me OR try to fix the rust myself, OR just get someone to fix it?

I have someone who said they could fix it for $700 (he is a 914 owner, bought new when he turned 16)

Opinions?

rust is bad on passenger side, I can put my fingers (when stretched out) in my hell hole, but can put both fists through the wheelwell opening, suspension console looks solid, not much flex in chassis.....

what should I do?

b
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URY914
post Apr 26 2006, 08:24 AM
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Do you mean a WEST coast body?
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rmital
post Apr 26 2006, 08:26 AM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Apr 26 2006, 06:24 AM) *

Do you mean a WEST coast body?



...got to be a typo....
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bd1308
post Apr 26 2006, 08:27 AM
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Sorry paul....

Yes I do mean West coast...thanks for clearing that up.

where's that 3rd shift stocking smiley?

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srb7f
post Apr 26 2006, 08:48 AM
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Been there, done that with the two different bodies thing. Mine was so badly rusted that I purchased a rolling shell with relatively no rust for $700. It needed paint, so I took it down to just the chassis, painted it, and then took the parts directly off the old car, cleaned them up/restored them and put them directly on the painted chassis. It was a great way to do it since I always had a complete car to look at when I would get confused how things fit together.
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Flat VW
post Apr 26 2006, 11:29 AM
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All that school for nothing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

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914forme
post Apr 26 2006, 12:04 PM
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Unless you can get the chassis for free (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) shipping will be $900 bucks, but there is another solution. Head south alabamia, Jon Lowe used to tell me the cars where clean down there, he was not sure how, but they where. I am sure they are not Arizonia clean, but for us Midwesterners, anything you can't put a screwdriver through is clean. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

It is not really the cost in $$s that bite you, its the cost in time. To weld it up you got to take it apart. Why not skip the welding step and be happier if you can find a clean tub.

Parts to do the repairs, Unless you make them your selff you are looking @ $400 or more, in parts.
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Aaron Cox
post Apr 26 2006, 12:45 PM
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how many clean tubs do you need?

This is Aaron Cox, From the land of little rain and land of plentiful rust free teeners (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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JeffBowlsby
post Apr 26 2006, 01:12 PM
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!!!NEWS FLASH!!!

California has declared a quarantine on 914 tubs, no longer will they be allowed to leave the state in hopes they will not contaminate the rest of the country. No more 914 tubs are being allowed across state lines.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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lapuwali
post Apr 26 2006, 01:32 PM
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Not another one!
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There are so many clean tubs in California, people are cutting them up and throwing them away because they can't get anyone to come and take them whole, even for FREE.

However, transport costs and the pain in the ass factor make it clear people would rather spend several years de-rusting a tub they find locally rather than pay the $2000 it would run to get a clean CA tub to them.

Makes me think I should quit my job, buy a car transporter, buy every $1000-1500 914 I can find locally, and drive East, selling cars as went for $3000-4000 each. I'd figure I'd clear $20K per trip, even with high gas prices, and even driving back to CA empty.
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grasshopper
post Apr 26 2006, 02:53 PM
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hey britt, you dont want me to come up and help anymore??
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jsteele22
post Apr 26 2006, 03:00 PM
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One other important thing to consider. Once the rust is "fixed" you're probably going to want to get the thing painted. Think long and hard about how much time/money you want to spend on that - it was a real eye-opener for me. Then maybe this summer you could take a little trip to CA.....
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Mueller
post Apr 26 2006, 03:00 PM
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$700 seems tooooo cheap for proper repair....


I'd opt for the chassis from out here, problem is the cost and logistics of getting to you..........
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bd1308
post Apr 26 2006, 05:04 PM
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he said he was fixing the structural area ONLY.

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Mueller
post Apr 26 2006, 05:20 PM
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QUOTE(bd1308 @ Apr 26 2006, 04:04 PM) *

he said he was fixing the structural area ONLY.

b


That's a good deal if done correctly...I'd recommend dropping the engine and removing the pass. side trailing arm to do a better inspection of the trailing arm "ear" (like smack it a few times with a 2.5# sledge hammer)
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bd1308
post Apr 26 2006, 05:36 PM
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this guy took a LONG time working on his...

i dunno if he will take the same amount on mine....

honestly, i'm just getting tired of all the problems......and the worries.

my feeling is that instead of wandering around with my eyes shut trying to weld (when i dont know how), I should take it to someone that knows these cars *OR* just get a roller.
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bd1308
post Apr 26 2006, 05:41 PM
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but honestly with the way that my spots are and the fact that the long doesnt *LOOK* rusted (there's a small opening on the inner part of the long, by the base of it) I think either someone was trying to take care of it and didn't finish, or just wanted to take the easy way out.

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grasshopper
post Apr 26 2006, 06:07 PM
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hey b, how about post some pics so we can see the damage...it should be an easy fix if it is just some small holes..the expensive part would be the metal ready and por15....well...kinda...if you still want me to come help, I can bring a sandblaster, and welder..and any other tools needed... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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tat2dphreak
post Apr 26 2006, 06:26 PM
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QUOTE(Mueller @ Apr 26 2006, 04:00 PM) *

$700 seems tooooo cheap for proper repair....


I'd opt for the chassis from out here, problem is the cost and logistics of getting to you..........

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) if rust-free cars are growing on trees... pick one and figure out a way to get it there... I'd be suspect of a $700 job... unless the rust is so minimal...
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IronHillRestorations
post Apr 26 2006, 06:28 PM
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Get the clean tub and be done with it. Even if you can't afford it. If you try and fix a rusted POS then you'll have a POS with rust repair and more rust in the future. If you try and fix a rusty car, it will come back.

I predict in the not so distant future that $2000 will be a good price for a straight, clean, unmolested bare body.

The cost of repairing rust is going up all the time, and unless you dip the body, or do some serious corrosion mitigation, you never get it all.


It's easy for me to spend your money, but what do you really want to end up with? Besides, there's a good chance I'm old enough to be your dad, so learn from my mistakes!
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