Gear Selection woes Options

[alan9144]

I am having major problems with my gear selection on my 75 914. The problem started with a horrible crunching noise when I tried to change from 1st to 2nd.

Inspected the linkage and found the grub screws had come loose, I retightened these but now the shift from 1st to 2nd feels in a different position and if not done slowly actually tries to go into reverse. Is there a lock out for reverse, I dismantled the shifter but could not see any lock out?!

Does this sound terminal or just adjustment or bushings? Any help greatly appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Al

[blitZ]

If you have not replaced your shift linkage bushings, it's a good place to start. If you still have a problem, adjust your linkage and clutch.

[alan9144]

If you have not replaced your shift linkage bushings, it's a good place to start. If you still have a problem, adjust your linkage and clutch.

Cheers Blitz, I was thinking along those lines initially, seems to be a common fault, just did not think it would happen so fast and without prior warning. Got any tips on removing splitting the shifter?

Al

[blitZ]

This article on the PP site, describes how to replace linkage bushings. I think it's the first thing I did when I got my car, should make it much more driveable.

Linkage Bushings

[solex]

Adjustment of the shifter can be found in haynes. It involves opening the access port inbetween the seats.
Dan

[lapuwali]

"Opening the access port between the seats" doesn't really work on a side-shift car, which a '75 should have.

The adjustment pinch bolt for a side-shifter is under the shifter itself, just aft of where the lever goes into the tunnel. You'll need to pull the carpeting to see it. It pinches the shift rod to the lever assembly, and controls the position of the shift lever to the shift linkage, so if you feel R/1 are in a different place than before, it's likely this has come loose.

Alternatively, the bushings in the shift coupler (the U-joint just behind the firewall) can and do fail suddenly, sometimes working fine until they just fall apart, or fall out. These can be purchased new. Shifting will be very bad if this happens.

The "lock out", is the slotted plate below the shifter (above the clevis). This is sprung to the shift lever will resist moving into the R/1 plane. This plate can wear, and replacing it can help, but it's not a sudden kind of problem. When in good condition, the proper adjustment of the shifter is to have the lever just lightly rest on this plate when in the 2/3 plane. This way, you have to push against the spring to get into the R/1 plane, and pushing the lever forward out of first will naturally spring the lever into the 2/3 plane, so you don't nick reverse as you shift into 2nd.

I strongly suspect more than one thing happened here, and that you'll find if you go through the whole linkage, replacing the bushings, using new cone screws (and Loctite), and readjusting the shifter, you'll find shifting will be greatly improved.

[Rrrockhound]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif)
Sorry to hijack this thread, but what's the best way to remove the cone screw when the hexes are rounded out? I tried pounding in a bigger allen wrench--didn't work.