Progress, stuff Options

[J P Stein]

I got the Tarett strut mounts, sway bar & suspenders on this weekend. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Naturally I shot a few pics.

[J P Stein]

and more

[J P Stein]

OK,if you insist, one more (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The down link is nifty. It has left & right hand threads.
A hole thru the link allows a .25 rod to be inserted.
Loosen the lock nuts, turn the rod and it expands or contracts the link.

[Brad Roberts]

Interesting that you used the "washer" from the old mount on the top of the Tarret strut mount.

I'm guessing you did this so you could tighten the nut down and hold the strut.

B

[Brad Roberts]

Can you shoot one more pic for me ??

I would like for you to fully load one of the front control arms (put a jack under it and lift until the body starts to com off your "stands" Then shoot a pic of the sway bar drop link. I want to know if the heim joints go into bind when under load.

You will have to support the other side also.

B

[J P Stein]

Yup.....that was the only thing I didn't like about the set up. I'm gonna call Ira & find out what he recommends there....prolly what I did?....Also ....for lack of a better idea, I put the supplied thick washer on top of the the concave washer

[J P Stein]

I can do that, but I gotta take the opposite down link off and pull the T bar caps. I tried jacking it but it lifted off the blocks just from the gas charge in both shox. From what I can tell...eyeballing.... it ain't gonna bind, even at full soft & full compression.

I have to do this nohow to check camber.....2 steps foreward and one step back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I also ended up grinding about .08 from the inside of the shock tower hole to get the mounts up against the inner fender/tower thingy.

[Brad Roberts]

BE VERY CAREFUL the first time you shut the hood. I dont use the old strut washer. I reach down and hold the strut/strut cover and tighten it down. I'm not sure which washer your makeing reference too when you say "concave" washer. You should NOT be using the strut washer with the metal locking tab. The Ny-lock nuts took the place of these way back.

B

[Brad Roberts]

The key is: You dont want it to bind anywhere in the adjustment of the bar in full compression or full droop. It really looks good on you car.


The problems with the Welt bar and those stock tabs: the bar may not bind on the drop links when you have it set full soft... but go full stiff on the bar and the drop links can go into bind.

I havent had time to document this...


B

[Dave Cawdrey]

Dang, that bar is purdy 'nuff to buy one. By god, Mueller's got mine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Paypal this week, okie dokey Mike?

[J P Stein]

The concave/convex washer in the pic....the bigun'.
And, yes, I was eyeballin' the top of the insert....humm, it seems higher than before...I'll be careful, thanx.

There is a thick(.25) washer just below the nut. If necessary, I can shitcan it and take a grinder to the top of the strut.

BTW, my Welt bar bound up, set soft, at compression.....right down there where you said.
I posted pics, somewhere. I figured I could fix it, tho.....I gots power tools (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)

[krk]

JP,

Your car is frikk'n clean and beautiful. All of the pic's you've posted have been head turner's and definitely 'lighthouse' quality. (I spent the day staining mahogany -- if I want to ever get back to Mere Car Hell™, I have to complete this house! Your car, and others I've seen on this bbs are providing ample motivation.) Thx for posting!

kim.

ps. Your ceiling needs painting. lol.

[campbellcj]

You shouldn't need that big washer; just the smaller tabbed one and the big nyloc nut up top. This pic is with my old (914-4 boge) struts but is approx how it still looks now -

[Brad Roberts]

In the past.. I have had to cut down the Bilstein threads that hang out of the installed nut. I say shitcan the concave washer. Your asking for trouble by moving the nut up. It will hit on one of the X braces in the hood.


B

[rick 918-S]

Great looking set up. Looks like a productive weekend all around.

[J P Stein]

Ok, bear with me here.
If I use the small tab washer, how do I keep the strut from turning? ....Get hold of that thin tab washer with channel locks or something?
A pipe wrench on the tube, maybe (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ?
The dust covers are history and have no tab nohow.

The stuff above the mount has no effect on the height of the strut shaft. To get it lower, something would have to go below the mount.

[Brad Roberts]

I left a word out in my early post: Dont use the locking thin plate or the concave.

Do you have air tools ??

I hold the shock cover (under the fender) and hit the nut with a airgun. The Bilsteins are very strong up top (dont try this with Koni's unless you set the airgun on a low setting)

You can use a ratchet also, but you have to be able to multi-task. Hold the cover and pull on the ratchet.

If you dont have the cover on the shock... just hold the shaft with your bare hand. That upper nut only gets torqued too 20 some odd lb-ft. You should be able to hold the shock to get this.

B

[jonwatts]

I hold the shock cover (under the fender) and hit the nut with a airgun.

Speaking of shock covers, do they need to be run with today's replacement shocks or are they just dead weight?

[Brad Roberts]

Street car.. sure why not. Nothing much to be gained or lost by running them or not. All the new shocks have a seal that keeps crap out.

B

[jonwatts]

Speaking of keeping crap out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) keep an eye out for a beer commercial where a guy shows up at a bar in a '70's vette with personalized plates that say "THE BRAD"

I died when I saw it. Seems too new to find on the web yet.