Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

3 Pages V < 1 2 3 >  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Progress, stuff
J P Stein
post Feb 24 2003, 02:06 AM
Post #21


Irrelevant old fart
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,797
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Vancouver, WA
Member No.: 45
Region Association: None



OK, so I went out and checked.(it's cold out.....ah....west coast cold....30ish.)
The nut hits a hood stiffener on one side. It's dented from some past abuse already. It looks like it will clear the shaft, however.

I'll either go get one of them strap wrenches or take my monster pair of channel locks to the tube above the working surface....looks like I can get hold of it above the chrome.

Have I got an impact wrench? You have to ask? ....I'm appalled (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) . Normaly, I use *them* for disassembly only. I think I'll make an exception in this case.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Brad Roberts
post Feb 24 2003, 02:11 AM
Post #22


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 19,148
Joined: 23-December 02
Member No.: 8
Region Association: None



The problem normally rears its ugly head AFTER the aggressive negative camber alignmet. I know you have decent paint and didn't want you to "ding" the hood the first time you shut it AFTER the alignment.

Jon,

I have seen the comercial.. it has been out for awhile.


B
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
J P Stein
post Feb 24 2003, 02:14 AM
Post #23


Irrelevant old fart
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,797
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Vancouver, WA
Member No.: 45
Region Association: None



I admit to being a tad nervous about running without any dust cover....a misnomer if there ever was one.

What concerns me is gravel putting nicks in the chrome. the nicks can be very abrasive to the guts of the shocks.......seals, sleave bearings. I'll keep a close eye on em'. If I detect any problems, I'll be lookin' for some rubber bellows type gravel guards.

krk:
Glad you enjoy my drivel....I'll keep it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Ayup, come summer I gots to do some paintin'......after the car's done. Ya gotta have priorities,eh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
krk
post Feb 24 2003, 02:45 AM
Post #24


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 997
Joined: 27-December 02
From: San Jose
Member No.: 22



JP:

Dude, your car is serious! And that's good to see. My house reno will be completed (or I'll be dead) by summer, and the p-cars will get the attention they deserve! 'Till then, I live vicariously thru others.... my car must look like yours one day. Period.

Hope your racing year kicks ass!

kiim.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
campbellcj
post Feb 24 2003, 02:34 PM
Post #25


I can't Re Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,536
Joined: 26-December 02
From: Agoura, CA
Member No.: 21
Region Association: Southern California



"We" (i.e. mechanic while I watched) used the air wrench on the top nut of my new struts. I don't know if I have seen anybody who actually has/uses the special slotted bilstein shaft holder tool. Blipping it with the air wrench did the trick just fine. Then the edge of the thin slotted washer is bent up, as an extra measure, just in case the nyloc nut decides to work itself loose.

I can take a hi-res close up pic if it would help.

BTW the P.O. of my car had a strut top issue at one time; there's a nice dimple in the front lid on the right side, where the strut shaft comes up. Oops.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Don Wohlfarth
post Feb 24 2003, 02:41 PM
Post #26


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 104
Joined: 8-January 03
From: Fairfax, VA
Member No.: 117



JP, take a look at your picture of the top of your strut showing the nut and washer.
There's something that looks screwy here with the angle of the strut going thru the the strut mount. Now look at the picture that Campbelljc posted without the washer. You can visualize the angle of the strut versus your setup that looks a little strange. Just something to check.
Doubt you will be able to get more than 1.5 degree's neg without enlarging the hole that the strut mount goes thru. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
J P Stein
post Feb 24 2003, 03:11 PM
Post #27


Irrelevant old fart
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,797
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Vancouver, WA
Member No.: 45
Region Association: None



Ok, we fixem'.
Don:
The strut mounts are offset to allow the top of the strut to move inboard. There's a mono ball in there rotating to compensate for the angulation. Having said that, I did use up about all there is. It's about .02 from binding. I still have to cycle the suspension up to insure there is no bind at full compression and also to check camber at the new ride height. Here's a pic with a better view of the thing. If you flip back to Chris's pic and compare the 2 You'll notice that he has a gap on the inboard side
and I have a gap on the outboard side.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Don Wohlfarth
post Feb 24 2003, 03:49 PM
Post #28


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 104
Joined: 8-January 03
From: Fairfax, VA
Member No.: 117



From your first picture it just looked a little strange to me, something to check for sure. Your second picture without the washer shows that everything's fine. Put a little clay or dumdum on the top of the strut shaft and sloooowly close the hood. May have to hit the shaft with a file to gain a little clearance. Notice before pic that threads didn't clear the nyloc nut and after pic you've got 2 or 3 threads showing.
Please post your first reading on neg camber.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
campbellcj
post Feb 24 2003, 11:07 PM
Post #29


I can't Re Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,536
Joined: 26-December 02
From: Agoura, CA
Member No.: 21
Region Association: Southern California



Hey JP - BTW, what device and/or technique are you using to read/set your camber? I figure I need to get up to speed (so to speak) with that capability before too long.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ChrisReale
post Feb 25 2003, 12:09 AM
Post #30


Sleazy
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,665
Joined: 20-January 03
From: San Francisco
Member No.: 176



QUOTE(campbellcj @ Feb 24 2003, 09:07 PM)
Hey JP - BTW, what device and/or technique are you using to read/set your camber? I figure I need to get up to speed (so to speak) with that capability before too long.

He uses a super hi tech pen and draws on his car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
Just kidding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jonwatts
post Feb 25 2003, 12:30 AM
Post #31


no rules, just wrong
****

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 2,321
Joined: 13-January 03
From: San Jose, CA
Member No.: 141



I heard he drives a 10 penny nail into each tire and connects them with a string.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
J P Stein
post Feb 25 2003, 04:06 AM
Post #32


Irrelevant old fart
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,797
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Vancouver, WA
Member No.: 45
Region Association: None



It ain't much more complicated than my "friends" have said.

All you need to know is the run and the rise.
I have the car sitting level...within .100 or better..close enuff.

A carpenters level and a machinist's rule.....the rule is: don't screw the pooch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I bolt on a wheel, mark points 15 inches appart on the rim, the top & bottom. That's the run. Hold the level plumb and measure at the points. The difference twixt the 2 is the rise. Lets say the rise measures .52..... .52/15=.034666 (inverse tangent on your calculator) =1.985 deg.

So, if the wheel is leaning in at the top between .5 & .6 in. you're in 2 deg. the ball park. Close enuff to take it to the alignment guy.

Or you can spend 200 bucks for a gauge to do this.

A set of trammel points would be good, but mine have disappeared.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dman
post Feb 25 2003, 11:43 AM
Post #33


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 163
Joined: 18-February 03
From: Sacramento CA
Member No.: 311



This is kind of an unrelated question but when you put the wheels and brakes back on are you going to reinstall the sheet metal guard/cover.

I am in the process of doing a 911 front strut conversion an the ones I have are kind of bent up.
I was wondering if you get better brake cooling with, or without them?

BTW JP your stuff looks great! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
campbellcj
post Feb 25 2003, 11:46 AM
Post #34


I can't Re Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,536
Joined: 26-December 02
From: Agoura, CA
Member No.: 21
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(J P Stein @ Feb 25 2003, 02:06 AM)
It ain't much more complicated than my "friends" have said.



Somehow I just had this intuition that you hadn't sprung a few hundred bones for one of them fancy triangle gauges with laser beams and all that newfangled wizbang stuff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
campbellcj
post Feb 25 2003, 11:48 AM
Post #35


I can't Re Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,536
Joined: 26-December 02
From: Agoura, CA
Member No.: 21
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(Dman @ Feb 25 2003, 09:43 AM)
This is kind of an unrelated question but when you put the wheels and brakes back on are you going to reinstall the sheet metal guard/cover.

I am in the process of doing a 911 front strut conversion an the ones I have are kind of bent up.
I was wondering if you get better brake cooling with, or without them?

BTW JP your stuff looks great! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

I have been running without the shields not really because of cooling, but to avoid the problem of having crap (sticks, stones, small animals) get stuck between the rotor and the shield. It is very easy to do in a track "off".
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
J P Stein
post Feb 25 2003, 01:16 PM
Post #36


Irrelevant old fart
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,797
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Vancouver, WA
Member No.: 45
Region Association: None



The sheilds didn't make the cut this time.
I have a nice set of fronts if ya need em'.
I woud have put them back on if were doing more street dtiving. The rears have been gone for some time.

As for alignment.
When I get the car on the ground, I'll set the ride height and recheck the camber. The rear is pretty much locked in, me thinks. At the front, I have the struts set at max camber & caster. I may just tell the alignment guy to leave those specs alone, but double check me.

All I have lest to do is reinstall the gas tank, bleed the brakes, check the valbes, and fill the motor with oil ......uh....rack spacers, damn...get some.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Sammy
post Feb 25 2003, 04:35 PM
Post #37


.
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,190
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Orange, Ca
Member No.: 178



You aughta build some bathroom scales into them cool lookin boxes you got so's you can do a corner balance while yer at it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
campbellcj
post Feb 25 2003, 10:07 PM
Post #38


I can't Re Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,536
Joined: 26-December 02
From: Agoura, CA
Member No.: 21
Region Association: Southern California



JP - pretty sure I have an extra Welt rack spacer kit. Email me your address if you want it chris@nosubstitute.org

I actually ended up with an extra turbo tie rod kit as well; I spose that could go up on the classifieds.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
J P Stein
post Feb 26 2003, 02:58 PM
Post #39


Irrelevant old fart
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,797
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Vancouver, WA
Member No.: 45
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Sammy @ Feb 25 2003, 02:35 PM)
You aughta build some bathroom scales into them cool lookin boxes you got so's you can do a corner balance while yer at it  :P

I would like to find a way to weigh/corner balance the car.
The proper scales sold for this are prohibitively expensive (for me)....in the 1K + range. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
8ea. 400lb bathroom scales would do the trick. Most only go to 300 lbs.
Surely some one in this crew has come up with something.
Anybody gots a plan?....remember, cheep is gud.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Brad Roberts
post Feb 26 2003, 03:01 PM
Post #40


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 19,148
Joined: 23-December 02
Member No.: 8
Region Association: None



I have a Scale/Lever system that uses bathroom scales (had to start somewhere) Its a complete kit (minus cheapy home scales) I think I paid 200$ for it. Works well. Semi dificult to setup, but works.

B
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

3 Pages V < 1 2 3 >
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 28th March 2024 - 02:30 PM