Oil tank problems..............., Factory tank and late ('74) body?? |
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Oil tank problems..............., Factory tank and late ('74) body?? |
East coaster |
Jun 2 2006, 08:57 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,669 Joined: 28-March 03 From: Brigantine, NJ Member No.: 487 Region Association: None |
OK, after a frustrating day assembling my car, I've bumped up against an issue with the oil tank. I'm using a new factory six oil tank and it won't fit correctly. I'm wondering if the later bodies added the brace in the picture below (yellow pencil aiming at it) to beef up the door latch area. My tank is teetering on this bracket and doesn't want to lay flat agianst the mounting area.
I can't be the first one to deal with this, what have others done to address this??? I hope it's not just crankin' the bolts down, cause that's got to wear into the tank sooner or later. |
Eric_Shea |
Jun 2 2006, 09:01 PM
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#2
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
&^$#$ I have a late 74 too...
I'll be here waiting with you for some answers. |
East coaster |
Jun 2 2006, 09:05 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,669 Joined: 28-March 03 From: Brigantine, NJ Member No.: 487 Region Association: None |
Ok........second problem:
How do you deal with the output fitting on the bottom of the tank? If I put the oil line on first I can't get the tank into position because the fitting hits the lower fender and prevents the tank from fitting. If I install the tank without the hose attached, how do I get the hose on with the tank in position?? There's no room for a wrench in the fender well. Is there a special wrench or something (crows foot??) I've tried getting the tank in with a straight fitting and a 45 degree fittings attached and neither lets me get the tank in with the hose pre-mounted.............Again, I'm quite sure I'm not the frist down this path..............Help!! Here's the two fittings I tried: |
Eric_Shea |
Jun 2 2006, 09:50 PM
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#4
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Should be able to get that from the engine compartment. The shelf and the wall there should be cut out for it. (unless I'm reading this wrong)
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J P Stein |
Jun 2 2006, 10:03 PM
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#5
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
I have a 74 & my tank went in....not easily, but it went.
For the outlet line, I used a 2 piece rubber hose that is sold as a replacement for the stock 6 hose (GPR, IIRC). Attach & tighten it before installing the tank. Many guys have trouble installing the tank...myself included. It takes some screwing around, but I used no pry bars. You'll also want some rubber grommets on the tank for the mounting studs (twixt the tank & body) and on the inlet fitting at the bottom. IIRC, I used big rubber washers below. All this shittage has to be on the tank prior to putting it in.....PITA, but doable. Once you get it in, you don't wanna take it out. |
GeorgeRud |
Jun 2 2006, 10:19 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,725 Joined: 27-July 05 From: Chicagoland Member No.: 4,482 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
You should be able to get an open ended wrench on the fitting at the bottom of the tank from the engine compartment - be sure the oil filter console and the electrical connection plate are out of the way first. Go slowly and don't go crazy tightening the line - just till the point where it seals and doesn't leak.
The same for fitting the tank, be sure the spacers are in place and fiddle with it. Once all the studs have had the nuts put on and the tank snugged up, you can release them one at a time and put the engine side washer on the tank stud. Be patient, it will eventually fit. |
East coaster |
Jun 3 2006, 06:07 AM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,669 Joined: 28-March 03 From: Brigantine, NJ Member No.: 487 Region Association: None |
Sorry, I think I threw everyone off with the second picture. The fitting I'm having trouble with isn't the one in the picture, it's the large (30mm) fitting at the bottom of the tank. It's the one that feeds the engine, not the return. The two piece hose is making sense. I was wondering if the factory hoses somehow allowed for this situation. The sucky thing is I already dinged my new paint trying to get this damn thing in! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
Without the hose pre-attached to this fitting the tank goes right in. However, the tank doesn't sit flat. It rocks front to rear and either I get the rear stud through the hole or the front, but not both cleanly. I can get both sticking through enough to start a nut on them, but if I crank the nuts down I'll be complressing the tank into the bracket shown in the first pic. I would think this would eventually detroy the tank. My tank is aleady scratched/gouged from this braket and I didn't even try to crank the bolts down. I'm getting the feeling that everyone with a factory tank and later tub is running with the tank crushed into this bracket. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I'm thinking of trying to remove the portion of the bracket that hits the tank?? I wish I could confirm that the older tubs did NOT have this piece??? |
J P Stein |
Jun 3 2006, 06:45 AM
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#8
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
For the outlet line, I used a 2 piece rubber hose that is sold as a replacement for the stock 6 hose (GPR, IIRC). Attach & tighten it before installing the tank. You'll also want some rubber grommets on the tank for the mounting studs (twixt the tank & body) and on the inlet fitting at the bottom. Here's a first, quoting my self. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) You don't say which hose you're using for the outlet. The hose described above works but it must be mounted in the proper attitude prior to installing the tank. The rubber grommets I used for the studs are about 5/16ths thick.....not really grommets but rubber vibration isolaters and also function as spacers. Tighten nylock nuts till you're "comfortable" that they'll hold. |
Joe Bob |
Jun 3 2006, 06:47 AM
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#9
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Unregistered |
Having NEVER done a conversion on 74....I can only say that each one was a beeeyotch each and everytime to get the tank in. On my last conversion the tank came out four times...my conversions were all 70 and 71 models...and one 73.
The bottom 30mm required a VERY thin walled wrench to get into tighten it down and I had to put it on first and then install the tank. Then I tighten it down..... There are specialty wrenches from Porsche but I have a set of "Park" and "Campagnola" bicycle wrenches that work nice. Are you using oem lines in some cases? I used a combo of oem ones...actually just one, the one that goes to the cooler line that you have to trim....there the other end is a slip on.....the other lines were aircraft fittings with metric conversion fittings to -AN. The extra length seemed to ease install. |
East coaster |
Jun 3 2006, 07:14 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,669 Joined: 28-March 03 From: Brigantine, NJ Member No.: 487 Region Association: None |
I have the grommets (clear urethane step washers, male on inside and female on outside?) for the studs. That's not one of my mounting problems. I'm really starting to believe that no one ever noticed this interference before.
As far as the oil lines, I'm not using any factory lines. All my lines are Aeroquip. For the tank outlet (bottom fitting in wheel well) I have two choices. I have a straight 30mm to AN-16 hose fitting (black/gold in above pic) and I have a 30mm to AN-16 male adapter and a 45 degree AN-16 female to AN-16 hose ( blue/red in above pic). Maybe they interfere more than a factory fitting, cause there's no way in hell I can get the tank into position with either of these fittings attached. I don't think the factory lines are an option in my case due to the 3.6. |
echocanyons |
Jun 3 2006, 07:25 AM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
My 72 -4 doesn't have this brace. I wonder if it cold be grounded down a bit? Any idea when in 74 was this brace added?
Attached thumbnail(s) |
Cap'n Krusty |
Jun 3 2006, 07:32 AM
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#12
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Fitment issues aside, why are you using those braided hoses? I guarantee you'll be in there in a couple of years to replace them. They leak at the fittings. If you have to use anything non stockish, why not the much cheaper and much better black "push lock" hose and fittings? The Cap'n
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db9146 |
Jun 3 2006, 07:39 AM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 953 Joined: 21-December 04 From: Atlanta, GA Member No.: 3,315 Region Association: None |
It is likely that the brace was added at the same time as the incorporation of the internal door braces to provide additional side-impact protection.
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Joe Bob |
Jun 3 2006, 07:40 AM
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#14
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Unregistered |
I have the grommets (clear urethane step washers, male on inside and female on outside?) for the studs. That's not one of my mounting problems. I'm really starting to believe that no one ever noticed this interference before. As far as the oil lines, I'm not using any factory lines. All my lines are Aeroquip. For the tank outlet (bottom fitting in wheel well) I have two choices. I have a straight 30mm to AN-16 hose fitting (black/gold in above pic) and I have a 30mm to AN-16 male adapter and a 45 degree AN-16 female to AN-16 hose ( blue/red in above pic). Maybe they interfere more than a factory fitting, cause there's no way in hell I can get the tank into position with either of these fittings attached. I don't think the factory lines are an option in my case due to the 3.6. In a few cases I have used factory Porsche fittings on one end, and then used a crimp on AN fitting on the other end. Most Hydraulic hose shops can do the crimping....I did this on my 3.6 conversion to my 83 RS clone for the tandem coolers I have. If I remember correctly....that bottom 30mm needed the stock fitting with a 90 to fit right......the metric to AN adapter didn't work for me. |
East coaster |
Jun 3 2006, 07:42 AM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,669 Joined: 28-March 03 From: Brigantine, NJ Member No.: 487 Region Association: None |
Kelly..........Thanks, that's what I had expected!
I would assume these brackets were added when the doors were beefed for the side impact regs. ( late '73 models on???). So for all you guys with post '72 bodies running factory 6 tanks you have a potentially hazardous condition where the tank hits this bracket. The two little "tits" on the bracket sure seem like they could wear through the tank at some point. If you simply crank down the nuts to pull the tank in, then there's a sh*tload of stress on the two spots where the bracket hits the tank! I see two options, remove the portion of the bracket that hits the tank or create a recess in the tank to clear the bracket. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) I think I'll be removing the offending bracket material and leaving my tank alone! With all the six conversions done, I never thought I'd run into a problem that wasn't specific to the 3.6......go figure (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
J P Stein |
Jun 3 2006, 08:38 AM
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#16
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
So for all you guys with post '72 bodies running factory 6 tanks you have a potentially hazardous condition where the tank hits this bracket. The two little "tits" on the bracket sure seem like they could wear through the tank at some point. If you simply crank down the nuts to pull the tank in, then there's a sh*tload of stress on the two spots where the bracket hits the tank! hought I'd run into a problem that wasn't specific to the 3.6......go figure (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ...Or the rest of us were smart enuff to install grommets/spacers thick enuff to hold the tank away from the bracket. |
SLITS |
Jun 3 2006, 08:44 AM
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#17
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
And the drivelmaster throws an astounding 150 mph third strike to end the inning.
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Dr Evil |
Jun 3 2006, 08:46 AM
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#18
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 22,995 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Yup, huge PITA. Yup, ground the bracket down on my 73.
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michel richard |
Jun 3 2006, 09:02 AM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
I used a crowfoot wrench to tighten down the line at the bottom of the oil tank.
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Eric_Shea |
Jun 3 2006, 10:12 AM
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#20
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
JP's OD'ing on his "Nice" pills again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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