914-6 ignition electrical switch replacement, Anyone done it, any tips, hints appreciated Options

[DonTraver]

The ignition switch is starting to fail to engage the starter, sometimes it engages, sometimes it doesn't. I'm thinking the electrical portion of the switch assembly.

Couple of questions.

1. Can you replace the electrical portion without removing the key portion.

2. Ordered/recieved switch for Performance parts, has a 964 part number on it, they said it's the right one, can anyone confirm that?

3. Any hints, tricks to replace this. Looks to be a pia to get to the two screws that hold the halfs together.

Thanks in advance for any help, it's appreciated.

Don

[Cap'n Krusty]

Sounds like the right part. Hope it fixes your starting problem. BTW, in 33 years of P-car wrenching, I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of 911 ignition switches I've had to replace. Rarely is it the problem. Starters are generally the end solution. As for the degree of difficulty, welcome to the real world of wrenching. I rate this one about a 3. The Cap'n

[DonTraver]

I installed a starter switch in the engine bay to help with setting the valves. When the ignition switch fails to engage the starter I use that one, works every time. So that tells me it's not the starter. Replaced starter 3 years ago. I'm certainly hoping I've got this one diagnosed right, would be a real shame to go through all that and not have it fix the problem. Thanks for the help.

Later, Don

[ClayPerrine]

The ignition switch is starting to fail to engage the starter, sometimes it engages, sometimes it doesn't. I'm thinking the electrical portion of the switch assembly.

Couple of questions.

1. Can you replace the electrical portion without removing the key portion.

2. Ordered/recieved switch for Performance parts, has a 964 part number on it, they said it's the right one, can anyone confirm that?

3. Any hints, tricks to replace this. Looks to be a pia to get to the two screws that hold the halfs together.

Thanks in advance for any help, it's appreciated.

Don

Answers... (Been there, done that)


1. No. You can't get to the top screw that holds the switch in the back of the lock cyliinder.

2. Yes, that is the correct part.

3. Drop the kneepad. It makes access much easier. Then remove the shear head bolts that hold the lock to the dash, and the one that holds the lock to the column. You will have to drill them out. Replace them with allen headed bolts of the correct length. Once the switch is out of the car, the electrical portion replaces easily.


Good luck!

[Cap'n Krusty]

I've never done one on a 914/6, but the 911 ones have all been done with the lock in the car. You CAN access the screws, but I do have a special tool (local manufacture, as they say in the manual!). The Cap'n

[DonTraver]

Special tool, ok, I've made them before. Would you have a picture of it. I'd like to get everything together before taking it down for the repair.

Thanks again, Don

[Cap'n Krusty]

Special tool, ok, I've made them before. Would you have a picture of it. I'd like to get everything together before taking it down for the repair.

Thanks again, Don

It's a stubby Craftsman pocket screwdriver, about 1.5" shank, with the handle shortened to about .5", with a cup on the end to hold your finger in place. Either that one, or a 1" long screwdriver shank with an 8mm nut brazed on the end. I forget. The Cap'n

[Dr Evil]

Harbor freight had a set that matched that description (I have it) for like $3.

[DonTraver]

I think I have them, really short flat and phillips screwdrivers, overall lenght just above a inch. Might even have picked them up at harbor freight. The nut brazed on it, sounds like that's to keep it centered on the screw, right?

Thanks again, you guys are great. Don