 Engine tin paint ? |
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Model Specific Information
914/4: 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 914/6: 70 71 72
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| tod914 |
 Jun 12 2006, 11:38 AM
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#1
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Advanced Member  Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170  |
What paint would be the closest to match the factory finish and be as durable? Best to just have it powder coated? The guys in the main forum said go with pc, just wanted to pose it in here for opinions as well.
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| dcheek |
Jun 12 2006, 01:34 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 691 Joined: 30-May 06 From: Westfield, New Jersey Member No.: 6,103 |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Jun 12 2006, 09:38 AM)  What paint would be the closest to match the factory finish and be as durable? Best to just have it powder coated? The guys in the main forum said go with pc, just wanted to pose it in here for opinions as well. Tod, As I've mentioned in other posts, I use Masury Satin Black with a pressure feed on spray gun to put on heavy. Alot of work and certainly not as durable as powder coating. I'm going to build a stock 40 horse VW motor with a Judson Supercharger on it. I plan on powder coating the tin on that. I just don't have the time to spray it myself. Cost? About $250.00. That includes bead blasting and powder coating. The finish looks pretty close. If you want I can get the name of the place my fellow VW friend has used many times in the past. Dave |
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| tod914 |
Jun 12 2006, 03:47 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Ok sure, thanks Dave. I used Haywood Corp for my rockers. The tin seems glossy though no?
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| Pat Garvey |
Jun 12 2006, 06:59 PM
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#4
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Do I or don't I...........? Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Jun 12 2006, 05:47 PM) Ok sure, thanks Dave. I used Haywood Corp for my rockers. The tin seems glossy though no? Had mine powder coated MANY years ago ('80) & it's held up pretty well to this point. However, had it blasted w/walnut shells first & it shows some signs of shrinkage. Motor comes out in a couple weeks for an oil leak & have been thinking about having the tin (sheet metal) redone just because it's out. Also, it's been polished a number of times & is now too glossy. I'd also like to find a way to reproduce the "610" stamping. Any ideas? |
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| tod914 |
Jun 12 2006, 07:23 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Find a matching stencil at an art supply shop and spray it on. Might be easiest to do a tracing and take it to the store with u.
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| Pat Garvey |
Jun 12 2006, 07:42 PM
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#6
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Do I or don't I...........? Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Jun 12 2006, 09:23 PM) Find a matching stencil at an art supply shop and spray it on. Might be easiest to do a tracing and take it to the store with u. Hmmm, interesting idea. What if I changed it to, say, 427? think I'd fool anyone? |
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| dcheek |
Jun 13 2006, 04:56 AM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 691 Joined: 30-May 06 From: Westfield, New Jersey Member No.: 6,103 |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Jun 12 2006, 01:47 PM) Ok sure, thanks Dave. I used Haywood Corp for my rockers. The tin seems glossy though no? Tod, I'm not familiar with the Haywood products. If you don't want to go the powder coating route the Patereks have a suitable substitute for the now discontinued Masury product. He's uses it on all 914 and 356 restorations requiring that "satin" finish on all the tin. It must be okay since many examples of their work have won national level Porsche concours events. Dave |
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| tod914 |
Jun 13 2006, 07:04 AM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Ok thanks Dave, If you have the contact info for the PC company that would be great. Wouldn't mind getting another quote. The aircleaner and other tin components seem to be more of a gloss than a satin. But, John would know best. Maybe I will pop by his shop and take a look. I'll pick the best match before it's strip it. Probally just going to do some small parts, aircleaner and plenium for now.
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| tod914 |
Jun 13 2006, 08:01 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
http://www.cvrpca.org/store/masury.htm thats the only link i found on the web for that paint. Says it a good match for the top which I'd like to redo sometime too. Do you by chance have a source where to purchase it from?? Or should I get it from John?
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| dcheek |
Jun 13 2006, 02:47 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 691 Joined: 30-May 06 From: Westfield, New Jersey Member No.: 6,103 |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Jun 13 2006, 05:04 AM) Ok thanks Dave, If you have the contact info for the PC company that would be great. Wouldn't mind getting another quote. The aircleaner and other tin components seem to be more of a gloss than a satin. But, John would know best. Maybe I will pop by his shop and take a look. I'll pick the best match before it's strip it. Probally just going to do some small parts, aircleaner and plenium for now. Did you get a quote for powder coating from Haywood? If so, that's the same place my buddy went. Dave |
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| Scott S |
Jun 13 2006, 03:13 PM
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#11
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Small Member Group: Members Posts: 1,697 Joined: 30-April 03 From: Colorado Member No.: 633 |
Pat -
Can you get a good picture of the "610"? If so, the way to do it is to have a rubber stamp made and get the correct color of paint to use. Any office supply store can have them made for you and they are relatively cheap. Randy Ema taught me this. We have used this technique on 4 different concour cars - most recently on our frame off XK 140. You can also use it to replicate inspection marks, as the paint lasts far longer than grease pencil and can be made to look exacly the same. This works really well on American car restorations. |
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| tod914 |
Jun 13 2006, 07:12 PM
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#12
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
quote for aircleaner and plenium and a few smaller items was $100 over the phone, but he needs to see the components to give me a set price. He strips off the old paint as well (bakes it off) and prepares the surface. The reason I went with him for my rockers..it was the only place that I found that would zinc dip the rockers prior to coating. Figured alittle insurance wouldnt hurt for an exterior piece.
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| Pat Garvey |
Jun 13 2006, 08:09 PM
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#13
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Do I or don't I...........? Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Jun 13 2006, 05:13 PM) Pat - Can you get a good picture of the "610"? If so, the way to do it is to have a rubber stamp made and get the correct color of paint to use. Any office supply store can have them made for you and they are relatively cheap. Randy Ema taught me this. We have used this technique on 4 different concour cars - most recently on our frame off XK 140. You can also use it to replicate inspection marks, as the paint lasts far longer than grease pencil and can be made to look exacly the same. This works really well on American car restorations. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) Why didn't I think of this?! Excellent idea & will do! While back I competed in a masters class multi-marque event in cincinnati. My chief competitor was a 56 T-Bird. Oner had actually found a retired QC guy from Ford (correct era) who had "retired" with one of the "OK" yellow stamps. Borrowed it & put the OK marks in the right places. Even had the chassis shims taped to the underside of the car, as delivered to the dealer. I was 2nd to him but he whipped me soundly - great car & resto! it's the little things! |
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| 914runnow |
Jun 14 2006, 06:38 PM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 340 Joined: 19-April 04 From: Modesto California Member No.: 1,948 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Jun 12 2006, 09:38 AM) What paint would be the closest to match the factory finish and be as durable? Best to just have it powder coated? The guys in the main forum said go with pc, just wanted to pose it in here for opinions as well. BK -05 is the correct powder coat color for the tin... NOT GLOSSY!!! |
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| tod914 |
Jun 15 2006, 07:43 AM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
QUOTE(914runnow @ Jun 14 2006, 08:38 PM) QUOTE(tod914 @ Jun 12 2006, 09:38 AM) What paint would be the closest to match the factory finish and be as durable? Best to just have it powder coated? The guys in the main forum said go with pc, just wanted to pose it in here for opinions as well. BK -05 is the correct powder coat color for the tin... NOT GLOSSY!!! Thanks! |
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| JeffBowlsby |
Jun 15 2006, 08:59 AM
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#16
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,490 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None 
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Here are a few photos from my webpage of the engine tin numbers. Anyone know for sure what they mean? I always thought they were brushed on through a stencil, the rubber stamp idea may have merit. See how the paint is thick and thin? See the sharp edges?
Attached thumbnail(s)  Attached image(s)   
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| JeffBowlsby |
Jun 15 2006, 09:02 AM
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#17
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,490 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None
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More. Dont forget the "I.O."
Attached image(s)  
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| Pat Garvey |
Jun 15 2006, 10:19 AM
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#18
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Do I or don't I...........? Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Jun 15 2006, 11:02 AM) More. Dont forget the "I.O." Does anyone have a listing of the various codes/meaning/placement? |
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| BS Chairman |
Jun 15 2006, 12:32 PM
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#19
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Member Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Southeast Michigan Member No.: 28 |
QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Jun 15 2006, 08:19 AM) QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Jun 15 2006, 11:02 AM) More. Dont forget the "I.O." Does anyone have a listing of the various codes/meaning/placement? Pat, When I worked in the plant QC stamps were given to each inspector with there own number. Say you worked in engines, and you checked gas lines, you would make sure all was right, and then and only then did you put your stamp on it. The Ea we see in the pic could mean date of build, or recall buy off, but I would think not! Placement means a lot. When I set a check up in the shipping yard, I wanted you to put your stamp where we could see that it had been checked easy without much effort. Color meant shift, red day and blue nights or what ever colors you wanted. The 602 lets say is June,02 or maybe 1976 Feb. who knows unless you worked there, we will never know. As Tom would say "just my .02 cents" |
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| davep |
Jun 15 2006, 01:49 PM
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#20
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,138 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada  |
I don't think there is a great range of 'numbers'. I agree that the rubber stamp is the most likely method. One would have to compare to the VW411 etc to find out if the 'numbers' were related to the product line (914, 411, ???) or not. What we need here is more data points with engine numbers as reference points.
I'll have to dig out my 2.0 tin, I bought one oddball piece from AA many years ago. |
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