The "Outlaw Motor" Build, Documenting my 2.0 Rebuild |
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The "Outlaw Motor" Build, Documenting my 2.0 Rebuild |
Aaron Cox |
Oct 2 2006, 09:02 PM
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#41
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
yeah.... what he said
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Jake Raby |
Oct 3 2006, 06:35 AM
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#42
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Stainless is the worst choice... It has very low yield strength and will snap off much sooner than other materials that can be used.
I have chromoly steel exhaust studs that are the strongest thing available, I have never snapped one of them! Stainless isn't the wonder material that some people make it out to be. |
Mark Henry |
Oct 3 2006, 07:20 AM
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#43
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I never use stainless studs. You sorta asked about my headwork...once you cross the border HAM is the same price or even cheaper than me. Believe me I've checked, that's why I don't push my work on this board. Also good headwork is a PITA to do and I really only offer it on a complete engine. As much as I like the T4 most of my work is still the T1. |
anthony |
Oct 3 2006, 07:23 PM
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#44
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2270 club Group: Benefactors Posts: 3,107 Joined: 1-February 03 From: SF Bay Area, CA Member No.: 218 |
Also good headwork is a PITA to do Is this why there are so few head rebuilders that people recommend? I actually find it hard to believe that there is nobody I know of in the SF Bay Area that people recommend for type IV work. I've asked local "gurus" and they always him and haw and have never come up with a local machine shop with a solid reputation. |
old dkp |
Oct 3 2006, 10:57 PM
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#45
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 21-September 06 From: san jose Member No.: 6,885 |
Also good headwork is a PITA to do Is this why there are so few head rebuilders that people recommend? I actually find it hard to believe that there is nobody I know of in the SF Bay Area that people recommend for type IV work. I've asked local "gurus" and they always him and haw and have never come up with a local machine shop with a solid reputation. I moved up here (bay area) in 1972 from so-cal and could not believe how far behind the times the v.w. porsche people were.i was a tech at a well known dealer here for 13 yr's until we had a strike (union) so i like alot of other techs changed professions,Iwent into teaching automotive and raced an 1800cc ep car all over the state.willow springs,riverside,laguna seca,and did very well back then. Only because i had the tools......by that i mean some-one dedicated to our need's.his name was Ray Litz.God rest his sweet soul.until last year i had not heard of Len or Jake.and now i see the same devotion that i saw in Ray when i told him of my exploits.these guy's have re-ignited my interest. at age 56. Yepp, I still love those curves.even if i have to ship the parts that make it Happen! I have been doing this since 1967. |
Mueller |
Oct 3 2006, 11:38 PM
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#46
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
Anthony,
I think one of the good guys up here is Jay.... Brad and Britian know who the guy is...slow as all hell, but pretty respected and not talked about too much (mostly 'cause he's slow and busy and those that have parts at his place don't want "your" job slowing him down, hahaha) ...I'm "pretty" sure he used to do head work for "The Maestro" (356 guru) |
anthony |
Oct 3 2006, 11:55 PM
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#47
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2270 club Group: Benefactors Posts: 3,107 Joined: 1-February 03 From: SF Bay Area, CA Member No.: 218 |
I've heard of Jay. The last story I heard about him (from a club member) went something like this:
Person drops parts off Every month or two the person goes and visit said parts and talks with Jay Eight or nine months later person retrieves parts and takes them elsewhere |
Brando |
Jan 15 2007, 11:48 PM
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#48
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
Okey dokey, I kind of broke this off to another thread (forgot I was subscribed to this one) so here's a link to the other thread: #2
I received the pistons, cylinders, cam and lifters from Jake today. Assembly should begin either the end of this week or the beginning of next week as we're having a second hoist/lift installed at the shop and it probably wouldn't be a good idea to try to assemble an engine with all that concrete dust flying around in the air. Once I get the O.K. from my boss when the hoist install is done, I'll be getting started on a spare yoke and the fun will begin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) This also gives me time this week to get some black oxide chemicals and do some engine tin. I'll probably black oxide the outside of the cylinders too since they're iron and will be dull red longer than they're shiny if I don't. After this 2056 is done and I can get back to blowin Aaron into the weeds at the track, what should I do with ye olde 1.8? Turbo grenade project? Or clean it, reseal it and sell it? |
Aaron Cox |
Jan 16 2007, 11:24 AM
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#49
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
and I can get back to blowin Aaron heh heh.. he said im getting blown... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) |
Brando |
Mar 13 2007, 01:45 AM
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#50
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
UPDATE:
Lots has happened in the last week for this little motor. Assembled the crank, rods, internals, case, the whole bottom end is done. Set my end play on Friday, 0.04" which is near-perfect. Today I checked my Tomorrow I (hopefully) instal the main seals, attach the flywheel, lap the cylinders into the heads, and finish the longblock assembly. Then on Wednesday I should start attaching sheetmetal (gotta buy some new rattle-can stuff), and the fan housing/alternator. Thursday I will drop the engine and trans outta my car, move the tunacan and remote oil cooler sandwich plate over to the new engine and the rest of the sheetmetal. Friday I put it all in, break it in and tune it! Pictures to come this week (camera has been dead). |
Brando |
Mar 13 2007, 09:06 PM
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#51
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
Update for today.
I lapped the cylinders into the heads, cleaned, inspected... Repeated twice until they were ready. Set the deck height to 0.03" and calculated CR is 9.5:1ish. I installed the front and rear main seals, flywheel, crank pulley and the heads. That was about all I could get done in 4 hours (add in cleaning time for tin pieces). The boss is taking a siesta until friday, so I'm pricing an MSD 6AL box and parts (something I can do while the shop is closed down) to further enhance my driving fun with this combo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Aaron Cox |
Mar 13 2007, 10:26 PM
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#52
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
get a real dizzy.
run a mallory and hyfire 6a box. |
Jake Raby |
Mar 14 2007, 07:49 AM
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#53
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
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Bleyseng |
Mar 14 2007, 09:52 AM
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#54
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,035 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I read the whole thread again and what cam did you get??
What FI are you using? Even thou Joe says using Djet is like pissing thru a straw, I would use as its better than duals. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/alfred.gif) |
Brando |
Mar 14 2007, 01:05 PM
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#55
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
get a real dizzy. Yep, the MSD is an underdeveloped component for the TIV engine.. It comes so far out of whack with its advance and curve that its pitiful.run a mallory and hyfire 6a box. But it'll work great in a Chevy. Mallory. Oh... CRAP I've been putting this thing together like it is half a chevy... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif) Just kidding. Point taken Aaron/Jake. There's a few on the eVilbay new less than what I was bidding on an MSD unit for. Maybe I'll buy that. Bleysing, I'm using L-Jet and running a Raby 9550 cam. Mallory Hyfire 6A or 6AL? |
Brando |
Mar 14 2007, 02:06 PM
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#56
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
Just purchased a Mallory Hyfire 6A, it should be shipping soon. Yay. Also on the way is a set of HEI plug wires. I'm going to follow the reccommendation of using a stock coil until performance issues arise. Then i can look for a mo-betta one. I think I'll install the mallory unit next Friday, that way I can have it all ready to use with the new engine (if it's installed by then).
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Aaron Cox |
Mar 14 2007, 03:54 PM
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#57
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
now get a real coil for it.
i run the same box, easy to wire - get REAL plug wires and a REAL coil. (you need an uber low impedance coil) look at a mallory promaster e coil |
Solo914 |
Mar 15 2007, 12:38 AM
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#58
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Member Group: Members Posts: 266 Joined: 6-March 06 From: Redmond, WA Member No.: 5,678 Region Association: None |
now get a real coil for it. i run the same box, easy to wire - get REAL plug wires and a REAL coil. (you need an uber low impedance coil) look at a mallory promaster e coil Yeah, When I was in the market a few years ago, MSD boxes were still hand built, don't know about now. Hand built is great for burgers, houses and furniture but I like my electronics to have tight tolerances not character...... Kyle PS. This was a british car project and I went with a crane HI-6, crane coil and converted a dizzy with the crane optical conversion. Infact I have done it a couple times now and it has never failed. |
Brando |
Mar 21 2007, 08:45 PM
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#59
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
Update:
Okay, the front fan housing and tin is on the engine. I just need to put my new valve adjuster screws in, set the valves, install pilot bearing (with felt), fix the sheetmetal around the alternator, install the alternator, then get ready to transfer all the FI stuff over once the engine is pulled. I hope it happens this week but we'll see. I also recieved my Mallory Hyfire 6A today, HEI wires came in Monday. I'm contemplating installing it after putting the new engine in, that way it will be easier to set the timing (seeing 4 flashes per cyl at idle, not fun when setting timing). The closer installation gets, the more excited I am. I can't wait to break(in) this motor and drive the piss outta it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Aaron Cox |
Mar 21 2007, 09:00 PM
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#60
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
what pushrods did you choose? i have the adjustable pushrod tool to do valvetrain geometry...
and a REAL timing light doesnt care about MSD style pulses.... |
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