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> The "Outlaw Motor" Build, Documenting my 2.0 Rebuild
Aaron Cox
post Oct 2 2006, 09:02 PM
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yeah.... what he said
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Jake Raby
post Oct 3 2006, 06:35 AM
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Stainless is the worst choice... It has very low yield strength and will snap off much sooner than other materials that can be used.

I have chromoly steel exhaust studs that are the strongest thing available, I have never snapped one of them!

Stainless isn't the wonder material that some people make it out to be.
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Mark Henry
post Oct 3 2006, 07:20 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I never use stainless studs.

You sorta asked about my headwork...once you cross the border HAM is the same price or even cheaper than me. Believe me I've checked, that's why I don't push my work on this board. Also good headwork is a PITA to do and I really only offer it on a complete engine.


As much as I like the T4 most of my work is still the T1.
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anthony
post Oct 3 2006, 07:23 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Oct 3 2006, 06:20 AM) *

Also good headwork is a PITA to do



Is this why there are so few head rebuilders that people recommend? I actually find it hard to believe that there is nobody I know of in the SF Bay Area that people recommend for type IV work. I've asked local "gurus" and they always him and haw and have never come up with a local machine shop with a solid reputation.

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old dkp
post Oct 3 2006, 10:57 PM
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QUOTE(anthony @ Oct 3 2006, 06:23 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Oct 3 2006, 06:20 AM) *

Also good headwork is a PITA to do



Is this why there are so few head rebuilders that people recommend? I actually find it hard to believe that there is nobody I know of in the SF Bay Area that people recommend for type IV work. I've asked local "gurus" and they always him and haw and have never come up with a local machine shop with a solid reputation.

I moved up here (bay area) in 1972 from so-cal and could not believe how far behind the times the v.w. porsche people were.i was a tech at a well known dealer here for 13 yr's until we had a strike (union) so i like alot of other techs changed professions,Iwent into teaching automotive and raced an 1800cc ep car all over the state.willow springs,riverside,laguna seca,and did very well back then. Only because i had the tools......by that i mean some-one dedicated to our need's.his name was Ray Litz.God rest his sweet soul.until last year i had not heard of Len or Jake.and now i see the same devotion that i saw in Ray when i told him of my exploits.these guy's have re-ignited my interest. at age 56. Yepp, I still love those curves.even if i have to ship the parts that make it Happen! I have been doing this since 1967.
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Mueller
post Oct 3 2006, 11:38 PM
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Anthony,

I think one of the good guys up here is Jay....

Brad and Britian know who the guy is...slow as all hell, but pretty respected and not talked about too much (mostly 'cause he's slow and busy and those that have parts at his place don't want "your" job slowing him down, hahaha) ...I'm "pretty" sure he used to do head work for "The Maestro" (356 guru)
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anthony
post Oct 3 2006, 11:55 PM
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I've heard of Jay. The last story I heard about him (from a club member) went something like this:

Person drops parts off
Every month or two the person goes and visit said parts and talks with Jay
Eight or nine months later person retrieves parts and takes them elsewhere

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Brando
post Jan 15 2007, 11:48 PM
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Okey dokey, I kind of broke this off to another thread (forgot I was subscribed to this one) so here's a link to the other thread: #2

I received the pistons, cylinders, cam and lifters from Jake today. Assembly should begin either the end of this week or the beginning of next week as we're having a second hoist/lift installed at the shop and it probably wouldn't be a good idea to try to assemble an engine with all that concrete dust flying around in the air. Once I get the O.K. from my boss when the hoist install is done, I'll be getting started on a spare yoke and the fun will begin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This also gives me time this week to get some black oxide chemicals and do some engine tin. I'll probably black oxide the outside of the cylinders too since they're iron and will be dull red longer than they're shiny if I don't.

After this 2056 is done and I can get back to blowin Aaron into the weeds at the track, what should I do with ye olde 1.8? Turbo grenade project? Or clean it, reseal it and sell it?
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Aaron Cox
post Jan 16 2007, 11:24 AM
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QUOTE(Brando @ Jan 15 2007, 09:48 PM) *

and I can get back to blowin Aaron



heh heh.. he said im getting blown... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
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Brando
post Mar 13 2007, 01:45 AM
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UPDATE:

Lots has happened in the last week for this little motor. Assembled the crank, rods, internals, case, the whole bottom end is done.

Set my end play on Friday, 0.04" which is near-perfect. Today I checked my dick deck height... Set at 0.03" which should give me about ~9.47:1 compression (yay). I just gotta wait for my front and rear main seals to come in and I can attach the flywheel and the front cap thingie for the fan.

Tomorrow I (hopefully) instal the main seals, attach the flywheel, lap the cylinders into the heads, and finish the longblock assembly. Then on Wednesday I should start attaching sheetmetal (gotta buy some new rattle-can stuff), and the fan housing/alternator. Thursday I will drop the engine and trans outta my car, move the tunacan and remote oil cooler sandwich plate over to the new engine and the rest of the sheetmetal. Friday I put it all in, break it in and tune it!

Pictures to come this week (camera has been dead).
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Brando
post Mar 13 2007, 09:06 PM
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Update for today.

I lapped the cylinders into the heads, cleaned, inspected... Repeated twice until they were ready. Set the deck height to 0.03" and calculated CR is 9.5:1ish. I installed the front and rear main seals, flywheel, crank pulley and the heads. That was about all I could get done in 4 hours (add in cleaning time for tin pieces).

The boss is taking a siesta until friday, so I'm pricing an MSD 6AL box and parts (something I can do while the shop is closed down) to further enhance my driving fun with this combo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 13 2007, 10:26 PM
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get a real dizzy.

run a mallory and hyfire 6a box.
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Jake Raby
post Mar 14 2007, 07:49 AM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Mar 13 2007, 09:26 PM) *

get a real dizzy.

run a mallory and hyfire 6a box.


Yep, the MSD is an underdeveloped component for the TIV engine.. It comes so far out of whack with its advance and curve that its pitiful.

But it'll work great in a Chevy.


Mallory.
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Bleyseng
post Mar 14 2007, 09:52 AM
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I read the whole thread again and what cam did you get??

What FI are you using? Even thou Joe says using Djet is like pissing thru a straw, I would use as its better than duals. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/alfred.gif)
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Brando
post Mar 14 2007, 01:05 PM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Mar 14 2007, 05:49 AM) *
QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Mar 13 2007, 09:26 PM) *
get a real dizzy.

run a mallory and hyfire 6a box.
Yep, the MSD is an underdeveloped component for the TIV engine.. It comes so far out of whack with its advance and curve that its pitiful.

But it'll work great in a Chevy.


Mallory.

Oh... CRAP I've been putting this thing together like it is half a chevy... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif) Just kidding. Point taken Aaron/Jake. There's a few on the eVilbay new less than what I was bidding on an MSD unit for. Maybe I'll buy that.

Bleysing, I'm using L-Jet and running a Raby 9550 cam.

Mallory Hyfire 6A or 6AL?
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Brando
post Mar 14 2007, 02:06 PM
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Just purchased a Mallory Hyfire 6A, it should be shipping soon. Yay. Also on the way is a set of HEI plug wires. I'm going to follow the reccommendation of using a stock coil until performance issues arise. Then i can look for a mo-betta one. I think I'll install the mallory unit next Friday, that way I can have it all ready to use with the new engine (if it's installed by then).
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 14 2007, 03:54 PM
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now get a real coil for it.

i run the same box, easy to wire - get REAL plug wires and a REAL coil. (you need an uber low impedance coil) look at a mallory promaster e coil
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Solo914
post Mar 15 2007, 12:38 AM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Mar 14 2007, 01:54 PM) *

now get a real coil for it.

i run the same box, easy to wire - get REAL plug wires and a REAL coil. (you need an uber low impedance coil) look at a mallory promaster e coil


Yeah, When I was in the market a few years ago, MSD boxes were still hand built, don't know about now. Hand built is great for burgers, houses and furniture but I like my electronics to have tight tolerances not character......



Kyle

PS. This was a british car project and I went with a crane HI-6, crane coil and converted a dizzy with the crane optical conversion. Infact I have done it a couple times now and it has never failed.
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Brando
post Mar 21 2007, 08:45 PM
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Update:

Okay, the front fan housing and tin is on the engine. I just need to put my new valve adjuster screws in, set the valves, install pilot bearing (with felt), fix the sheetmetal around the alternator, install the alternator, then get ready to transfer all the FI stuff over once the engine is pulled. I hope it happens this week but we'll see.

I also recieved my Mallory Hyfire 6A today, HEI wires came in Monday. I'm contemplating installing it after putting the new engine in, that way it will be easier to set the timing (seeing 4 flashes per cyl at idle, not fun when setting timing). The closer installation gets, the more excited I am. I can't wait to break(in) this motor and drive the piss outta it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 21 2007, 09:00 PM
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what pushrods did you choose? i have the adjustable pushrod tool to do valvetrain geometry...

and a REAL timing light doesnt care about MSD style pulses....

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