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> Height Adjustment & Travel, Why parallel?
si2t3m
post Feb 27 2003, 09:32 PM
Post #21


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DID SOMEONE SAY CHEAP????


''You will need a thermistor (Radio Shack part number 271-110 $3.39), a digital multimeter (any electronics store, $30.00 and up), an old ballpoint pen, some electrical tape, a couple of nails or pieces of coat hanger and a 24 inch (or so) length of insulated two conductor wire. ''

Full article at:
http://www.rennsport.ca/articles/technical.../Rsr%20pyro.htm

Marc-André
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ChrisReale
post Feb 27 2003, 09:37 PM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Feb 26 2003, 10:49 PM)
I knew what you meant.


B

rub it in a-hole! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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airsix
post Feb 27 2003, 10:38 PM
Post #23


I have bees in my epiglotis
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QUOTE(si2t3m @ Feb 27 2003, 07:32 PM)
DID SOMEONE SAY CHEAP????


''You will need a thermistor (Radio Shack part number 271-110 $3.39), a digital multimeter (any electronics store, $30.00 and up), an old ballpoint pen, some electrical tape, a couple of nails or pieces of coat hanger and a 24 inch (or so) length of insulated two conductor wire. ''

Full article at:
http://www.rennsport.ca/articles/technical.../Rsr%20pyro.htm

Marc-André

Jeroen & Marc-André,
Thanks for the info! You guys rock. I had no idea it would be so simple to build a pyrometer. I just assumed that since they were so expensive that they must be complex. I'm sure this isn't as advanced as an off-the-shelf unit but I'm sure it'll work better than my hand.

While I'm at it I'll tell you both that I appreciate your do-it-yourself personalities and have been admiring your projects for some time. Keep it up. One of the reasons I've been hanging out here is to be around that sort of attitude more.

-Ben
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Brad Roberts
post Feb 28 2003, 02:22 AM
Post #24


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Drew,

I hope you didnt think the "Ricky Racer" was aimed at you. It was a general term that I used. A lot of the SoCal shops are well known for sending their customers out on what I consider unsafe alignments. What works good for the fastest guy at the track doesnt work for the guy just starting out. I have seen cars with a ton of negative camber go faster with less because they where not using all of the tire. They where basing their alignments on "what everybody else is running" instead of doing their own data gathering on the owner/driver of given car. This happened last year with some friends of mine at the PCA club race at Fontana. They took a driver there in a GT3 Carrera cup car with 4deg of negative camber. I walked up and the driver felt uncomfortable in the car. It pushed.. it was loose. He wast happy. I walked up to say hello to them and after saying hello... I looked at the car they had there and said "too much negative camber". They said "that is what so and so is running" I said your driver isnt PRO, pull 2 degrees out of the left front and pull 1 degree out of the right front (all left hand track) and pull 1.5 out of each rear wheel. Very next session after 2 laps he was 4 seconds quicker and screaming into his headset about how well the car felt. The car didnt go faster... he felt more comfortable in the car going fast.

My 02

B
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J P Stein
post Feb 28 2003, 04:41 AM
Post #25


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Ben:

Caster.

When the car is going straight ahead the camber would decrease as the suspension compressed....under the conditions you describe....who cares? No harm, no foul.

As the tire is turned at an angle....during cornering, caster comes into play. Camber loss is negated by caster. I agree that ideally the A arm should never go above horizontal, but all is not lost should that happen.

Our little shitboxes have loads of caster built in......unlike other shitboxes.The stock
caster spec is 6 deg.....the axles lead the top strut mount by that much. Were one able to turn the tire 90 deg....thank God we can't....you would get 6 deg negative camber on the outside tire and 6 deg positive on the inside tire.

At max turn, my eyeball says 20 deg deflection from straight on the outside tire. That would be about -2 deg camber...if my in the head math serves. + 2 on the inside tire.....but it's not going to be compressed....ta da. This works regardless of body roll, but we Ricky Racers are controlling the shit outta that, nohow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)
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Joseph Mills
post Feb 28 2003, 08:34 AM
Post #26


on a Sonoma diet now...
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Brad,
"I have NEVER set a car up with more negative in the rear than the front."

Are you referring to track/race cars only, are does this include AX for you?

I have no experience with higher speeds of track/race, but do have some experience in AX (and still learning). It's my understanding that what can work for an AX can be way too loose for track speeds. That being said, I know many autocrossers that run more negative camber in back than front.

Would like to hear your views.

Joseph
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drew365
post Feb 28 2003, 09:23 AM
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These are the good old days!
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Brad; You can call me Ricky Racer anytime! Just keep the good info coming for us "less experienced types." We need a smiley with a leather helmet strap flapping in the wind.
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