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> Cooling Tips?, Can we keep our engines cool?
Trekkor
post Jul 21 2006, 08:30 PM
Post #21


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My engine only gets hot ( 230-240° ) when I drive 5-7k rpms sustained for 25 minutes plus in 100 degree plus weather.


KT
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wertygrog
post Jul 21 2006, 10:36 PM
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hey guys, I have a handheld IR temp gun, and I'm wondering where I should take a temp reading, and what range it should be in, so I can put this thing to use! THanks!
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newto914s
post Jul 22 2006, 01:02 AM
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On-off approch.
I discovered this last month driving my car up from cincinati. If you very the throttle on and off for equal amounts of time the car runs stupid cool. For example two seconds stepping on the gas, two seconds throttle closed. Up to like 5 or so seconds everthing is cool.
I was going to start a thread about this cause it makes it possable to use 5th(most beleive you do not get addaqut cooling air to stastain 5th gear). Even intentionaly luging my engine(50-55mph in 5th) my head temps would not go above 325 using this techneque.
I was doing 70-90 in 5th, for 3 hours of highway driving, and my Westach CHT gauge was reading between 300-340 degrees. For the first hour(before I made this discovery) keeping the throttle steady, in 4th doing 65, I was having a hard time keeping it below 375.
Give it a try. It worked for me
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Tobra
post Jul 22 2006, 07:43 AM
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When I bought my car, I had this discussion with the PO. He is a family friend since they were selling these things new, and has been the "914 Guy" at Frank's Automotive here in Sacramento, which is the "914 Shop" as I understand it.

I asked him about oil coolers, overheating, carbs, rust etc.

His response, "Bah, external oil cooler, you don't need that, you make sure what is on the car is right, keep the valves adjusted, change the oil and it will run forever. If you put air conditioning in it, you are an idiot, they only put A/C in them for Americans. Those Germans know WTF they are doing now, and they did then. If you switch to carbs, you will always regret it. They rust from the inside out. When are you going to get a haircut?"

He has been the 914 wrench at Frank's for about 20 years. He had a lot of other stuff to say too, like, "When are you going to buy the rest of my 914 stuff, you can have that console with the gauges in it, that fog light switch in the car is broken, take this one, these 2 liter wheels were only on a car once and the gouge in the one rim is from the firemen. That dent in the driver's door is from when they were throwing stuff out the hole they chopped in the side of the house, those bumper tops wer perfect before they got all burned up"

He said a lot of stuff, upshot was the design is fine how it is, you are not smart enough to improve it. He is probably right with respect to me, some of you guys are smarter than me though
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Hybrid_Teener
post Jul 22 2006, 09:27 AM
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How about one of those spray misters you get at wal-mart, inside the tin? But spray something non-corrosive...

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JPB
post Jul 22 2006, 09:46 AM
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In 110F heat index at 125 MPH hammer down and flames coming out the exhaust pipes and never had her over 180F. How do I do it?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) Stayed at a Holiday Inn!
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So.Cal.914
post Jul 22 2006, 12:50 PM
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QUOTE(Hybrid_Teener @ Jul 22 2006, 08:27 AM) *

How about one of those spray misters you get at wal-mart, inside the tin? But spray something non-corrosive...


I was going to try it but I couldn't find a garden hose long enough.
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anthony
post Jul 22 2006, 01:01 PM
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Dude, you are trying to solve a problem that you don't have. Just drive the car. If the needle never hits red as you say then you are doing fine.
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Trekkor
post Jul 22 2006, 01:49 PM
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If you use the pyrometer, shoot the sending unit and the oil filter.

Then compare these numbers to the guage.

My sending unit seems to be the hot spot and it reads 10 degrees lower than my guage does.

i shoot *everything*. oil tank, lines, cooler, t-stat, my arm...


KT
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Air_Cooled_Nut
post Jul 22 2006, 02:31 PM
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If you take temp readings, always use the same location and distance. BE CONSISTENT. That is the best way to see changes.

When you take your foot off the gas (throttle closes) then no fuel is injected into the engine. This mode is called "over-run" when done with the car in gear (engine is being turned by the road wheels). One of the reasons FI gets better mileage than carbs, which always have fuel flowing thru 'em (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) And with no fuel to burn, no heat is genereated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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john rogers
post Jul 22 2006, 03:26 PM
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As mentioned earlier a large external oil cooler since oil does most of the cooling if you give it a chance. The cooler has to have great air flow, in the front trunk is still the best. Next is to have all the engine tin and the seals between them and the body. Next is to block off all the holes in the tin or seal the ones that have something coming through them, such as the rubber boot that seals the oil pressure sender wire on top of the engine.

I installed a mister system on the race car to the front cooler, I used a JC whitney windshield washer with a built in pump and there are three nozzles at the front cooler. It drops the temps about 15 degrees but does leaave a slight trail of steam/vapor which track workers question as if the engine has a coolant leak. The little tank will last about 15 minutes of a race.
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