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> Kerosene to clean a running motor, not an aircooled
r_towle
post Aug 2 2006, 09:13 PM
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So,
I have a Eurovan, 2.5 liter water cooled motor..
Overall it runs great..but there is a ticking that just wont go away..and it seems to be getting worse with age..

I was thinking..
I remember that I did this once before..

Remove all the oil, get a fresh oil filter, and fill the case with Kerosene...
Let it run for a few minutes, till warm..
Then dump it all out...new filter...new oil
run for a day
new oil and filter again...

Does that sound right?
My goal is to clean out the sludge...

Rich
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LowGT
post Aug 2 2006, 11:59 PM
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Yup, I used to do that to my old car too. Pretty good results, except some people experienced leaks afterwards if a sludge deposit was plugging a potential leak.

When I did it, I used one quart oil and 4 quarts kerosene.

In older cars, my father used to put a quart of trans fluid in with the oil every now and then. Same idea, detergent in the trans fluid cleans it out. I'm not sure how newer cars with O2 sensors and stuff would respond to that though.
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Rand
post Aug 3 2006, 12:09 AM
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Sounds like a bunch of madness to me.
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John
post Aug 3 2006, 12:14 AM
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QUOTE
Sounds like a bunch of madness to me.


Just wait until they tell you that they have WITNESSED dear old dad pour a quart of water down the carburetor of a running V8 while holding the throttle open to keep it running.....
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So.Cal.914
post Aug 3 2006, 12:18 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Aug 2 2006, 08:13 PM) *

So,
I have a Eurovan, 2.5 liter water cooled motor..
Overall it runs great..but there is a ticking that just wont go away..and it seems to be getting worse with age..

I was thinking..
I remember that I did this once before..

Remove all the oil, get a fresh oil filter, and fill the case with Kerosene...
Let it run for a few minutes, till warm..
Then dump it all out...new filter...new oil
run for a day
new oil and filter again...

Does that sound right?
My goal is to clean out the sludge...

Rich



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Trekkor
post Aug 3 2006, 12:25 AM
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I do things...
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This thread is worthless without video...


KT
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pfierb
post Aug 3 2006, 05:29 AM
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The gasoline in the dishwasher is really looking for trouble.....hope you have your homeowners insurance up to date and have a clear escape route out of the house.
The kerosene in the engine should do wonders for the bearings,but at least you will have a clean engine to work on for the overhaul.
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SLITS
post Aug 3 2006, 06:52 AM
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Water in the carb....old trick....makes steam, knocks carbon outta the cylinders if you are experiencing detonation /run on from deposits.

Kerosene, Diesel fuel, etc in the oil to clean an engine....what the hell do you think those engine cleaners they sell in the FLAPS are - rocket science?

As long as the filter is working and you don't put a load on the engine, your bearings will be fine.
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Brian Mifsud
post Aug 3 2006, 08:11 AM
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Stuck hydraulic lifters come nicely unstuck if you add ATF to the engine oil. A fellow engineer and car builder suggested this when my 3.8 Buick powered El Camino started making the death knell. 50 miles of driving unstuck it nicely...
ATF contains a much higher percentage of detergents apparently. I'd try that before Kerosene on any engine I valued. The lubricating qualities (or lack there of) of Kerosene conjure up images of finger nails on blackboards when the steel internal parts start touching......
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drewvw
post Aug 3 2006, 08:21 AM
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along the lines of the "water down the carb" trick...anybody ever try the "Uncle Ben's" method?


You get a box of uncle bens rice and pour it down the carb with the throttle open. The idea is that when you pour it in ,the rice is dehydrated and hard so its like sandblasting the carbon deposits but once its in there is gets soft and easily passes out the exhaust.


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fitsbain
post Aug 3 2006, 08:58 AM
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Water in the carb will indeed clean out all the crap that is in the engine. You will get clouds of steam and black stuff out. I had a 250 6 in a chevy that wouldn't run right. A pump sprayer into the carb and you pump as fast as possible and keep opening the throttle to keep it running. After word it ran great.

ATF in the oil will do the same thing. Add a quart, drive 100 miles. Wash rinse but don't repeat.


No more oil sludge or build up.


Want a few more?

brake fluid in an auto trans to clean it up

ATF in the fuel to clean injectors.

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pfierb
post Aug 3 2006, 09:45 AM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Aug 3 2006, 08:52 AM) *

Water in the carb....old trick....makes steam, knocks carbon outta the cylinders if you are experiencing detonation /run on from deposits.

Kerosene, Diesel fuel, etc in the oil to clean an engine....what the hell do you think those engine cleaners they sell in the FLAPS are - rocket science?

As long as the filter is working and you don't put a load on the engine, your bearings will be fine.


You didn't read the message right he was talking about draining all the oil out of the engine and then refilling it with kerosene. Do it on your engine and see what you have left.
I'll bet all the automotive engine designers are busy writing down all these remedies especially the steamed rice recipe.
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r_towle
post Aug 3 2006, 10:01 AM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Aug 3 2006, 08:52 AM) *

Water in the carb....old trick....makes steam, knocks carbon outta the cylinders if you are experiencing detonation /run on from deposits.

Kerosene, Diesel fuel, etc in the oil to clean an engine....what the hell do you think those engine cleaners they sell in the FLAPS are - rocket science?

As long as the filter is working and you don't put a load on the engine, your bearings will be fine.


So please..offer up a good solution...
half oil, half kerosene?
Buy an engine flush solution from FLAPS and follow the suggestions?

Im looking to eliminate what sounds like a stuck lifter..or two that are not getting enough oil...so I want to clean the oil feeds going to the lifters..

I would prefer a solution that is done in the garage, no driving...looking to pour it in,,,run it for x amount of time...then flush it out...

Rich
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fitsbain
post Aug 3 2006, 10:09 AM
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A quart of ATF and 100 miles and then change the oil. You old oil stays in with the ATF.

Alternatly put it in cold and run until good an hot. Run 30 more minutes and then change the oil and filter.
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mharrison
post Aug 3 2006, 10:24 AM
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You need SeaFoam Engine Cleaner
(IMG:http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp_files/image002.jpg)
SeaFoam INFO
This stuff is GREAT! It is the holy grail as far as my old Yamaha group is concerned. It has definitely pepped up my cars. MUCH more responsive after a treatment.

Warning: If you engine is really dirty, there may be enough smoke to alarm neighbors! It can create quite the smoke screen when you use it!



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ConeDodger
post Aug 3 2006, 10:25 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Aug 2 2006, 08:13 PM) *

So,
I have a Eurovan, 2.5 liter water cooled motor..
Overall it runs great..but there is a ticking that just wont go away..and it seems to be getting worse with age..

I was thinking..
I remember that I did this once before..

Remove all the oil, get a fresh oil filter, and fill the case with Kerosene...
Let it run for a few minutes, till warm..
Then dump it all out...new filter...new oil
run for a day
new oil and filter again...

Does that sound right?
My goal is to clean out the sludge...

Rich


Wow... You are getting in to the old time shadetree stuff.

I have never heard of kerosene but it was common to use automatic transmission fluid to top off just before the oil change interval in the '60's and '70's. It is a highly detergent oil and it apparently would clean things up really well.

As for you doubters who think this is a joke thread, read the Grapes of Wrath. In the '40's and certainly before I am sure they would pull the car under a tree and change the main bearings without pulling the motor.

Back to your ticking, I doubt this would take care of the ticking. That is probably a flat lifter or something like that. But hey... it might


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LowGT
post Aug 3 2006, 10:39 AM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Aug 3 2006, 07:52 AM) *


Kerosene, Diesel fuel, etc in the oil to clean an engine....what the hell do you think those engine cleaners they sell in the FLAPS are - rocket science?





Exactly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) Some of you guys should go read the back of one of those in the store.
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chilli
post Aug 3 2006, 10:42 AM
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Use Marval Mystery Oil,

Stuff works great.

mike
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r_towle
post Aug 3 2006, 10:44 AM
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QUOTE(mharrison @ Aug 3 2006, 12:24 PM) *

You need SeaFoam Engine Cleaner
(IMG:http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp_files/image002.jpg)
SeaFoam INFO
This stuff is GREAT! It is the holy grail as far as my old Yamaha group is concerned. It has definitely pepped up my cars. MUCH more responsive after a treatment.

Warning: If you engine is really dirty, there may be enough smoke to alarm neighbors! It can create quite the smoke screen when you use it!


Hi,
i read the how to section...
In the throttle body I get...easy enough...
In the oil...it says how much to put in, but it does not say if and when it needs to come out...
So, am I to assume that I will leave it in till the next scheduled oil change?

Rich
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SLITS
post Aug 3 2006, 10:47 AM
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QUOTE(pfierb @ Aug 3 2006, 08:45 AM) *

QUOTE(SLITS @ Aug 3 2006, 08:52 AM) *

Water in the carb....old trick....makes steam, knocks carbon outta the cylinders if you are experiencing detonation /run on from deposits.

Kerosene, Diesel fuel, etc in the oil to clean an engine....what the hell do you think those engine cleaners they sell in the FLAPS are - rocket science?

As long as the filter is working and you don't put a load on the engine, your bearings will be fine.


You didn't read the message right he was talking about draining all the oil out of the engine and then refilling it with kerosene. Do it on your engine and see what you have left.
I'll bet all the automotive engine designers are busy writing down all these remedies especially the steamed rice recipe.


Nope, I read it and understood what he was saying. It will wash all the residual oil off the metals and would eventually lead to metal failure (galling), but a short run of it shouldn't kill the engine. I would prefer diesel fuel, but.....

Then again, running straight ATF for a few minutes might do the trick too! There were racers who ran 5 & 10 wt oils in their engines (less drag = more hp).

In all cases I assume the car is doing nothing but idling...no high rpm, no load, etc. An engine will run for a period of time (10 mins?) at idle if you drain all the oil out before it siezes. Oil is tenacious in adherance to metals.

And no one has mentioned yet the use of Borax to reseat rings.
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