Ut-Oh, Guys check your drains Options

[DNHunt]

I knew I had rust issues with the hell hole but look what I found under the sealer on the inside of the firewall.

Dave

[DNHunt]

Didn't know I had pergatory too. Here's the same area on the driver's side. This one is going to take some creativity. Turns out the drain was plugged and water was sitting in the area behind the firewall. I feel like a real ass for letting this happen. I just didn't know about that. Thank goodness I found this site when I did or I would have blissfully watched the car rot in half.

I'll pay a price for my ignorance. Does any one know what gauge steel the firewall is?

[DNHunt]

There is some good news. The floors seem solid. Passenger rear

[DNHunt]

Pasenger front. The blue stuff is carpet pad the PO glued down for sound insulation. Pain in the but to get out. It just turned to powder.

[DNHunt]

Driver's rear

[DNHunt]

This is the worst spot for rust. Still solid though

[DNHunt]

Driver front

[Bleyseng]

That actually looks pretty damn good.....
Clean it up and Osopho for it to stop the rust.

Geoff

[rhodyguy]

dave, still, at this point i've seen worse pictures. how does the bottom of the engine shelve look where it meets the outer firewall? when you get ready to drop the engine let me know and i'll drop off one of my extra floors jacks and one of those furniture dollys from home depot.

kevin

[DNHunt]

Now, I need some advice.

Are there any solvents that will remove the residual adhesive left over from the tar crap?

Should I go to the trouble to remove the seam sealer from the front areas of the pan? they look really clean to me.

Next step is to remove the pedal cluster and gas pedal. Lots of dirt back there. I should get a better look at the back of the firewall next weekend after I drop the engine. Kevin if you want some entertainment come on over. Nothing better than watching other people work.

Thanks,

Dave

[DNHunt]

Geoff

The firewall is rusted through. Don't you think I should cut and replace? I can see it is kind of difficult but I'm not too comfortable with more holes in it than it was built with.

Dave

[seanery]

watchout Dave!

I think Andy's car started out as a short winter-type project!
This could be the beginning of a "new" car for ya!!!

[rhodyguy]

dave, you must have been replying when i sent you an email. are you pulling the engine today? reso designs sells the firewall pieces too.

kevin

[Bleyseng]

Yep, cut out the old rusted thru metal. Osopho the other areas after you clean them up.
Do you have a MIG welder yet?
Geoff

[rhodyguy]

i think he picked up a lincoln right after the run to jamies. he's prob out in the garage.

kevin

[Katmanken]

Ummmmm....

I'd put some paint on that bare steel after Ospho'ing. Ospho is ok as a rust remover/converter/etcher but it doesn't seal bare metal. Use Catalyzed primer or POR 15 or Bill Hirsch's Miracle paint (POR like moisture curing urethane WITH UV inhibitors)

Lately I have been using naval jelly on the non-horizontal surfaces (not my teener). It doesn't run off like Ospho. Cotton balls soaked in Ospho sorta work.

If you can't find Ospho, Dupont sells some metal prep stuff in "A" and "B" containers. "A" treats rust, "B" neutralizes "A" and adds zinc phosphate.

Best results are to rub the rusty area with a wire brush while treating. Ospho/Naval Jelly/metal prep turns rusty red and more rust goes away. Nice brass brushes for scrubbing pots/rusty 914's can be found at the local grocery store for a coupla bucks. Or, if there is one in your wife's kitchen, take it at your own risk.... (don't ask) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Ken

[Bleyseng]

Take some time to practice on scrap metal off donor cars. The 914 metal is pretty thin and it takes awhile to get good at welding sheet metal with a bead instead of burning thru.
Hopefully you got gas with it, otherwise GET IT!

Geoff

[DNHunt]

Kevin

I'll drop the engine next Sat. Anyone who wants to wtch me sweat is welcome. Some of you guys might have to travel a ways though. I order the firewall parts from Restoration Designs but they are backordered as they need to make new dies for these parts. If the pieces I need aren't to big I'll either try to find a donor or try to bend some up. Well see how much I need after the engine is out.

Geoff

I got a little unit from Home Depot with CO2 and Argon. I certainly need to practice.

[boxstr]

Dave If you are going to all of the trouble to drop the motor and pull the pedals and interior, why not do the job right and not half assed. Have the areas that show signs of rust media blasted and start with the best surfaces that you can. It will also help to find any other areas that you might not find by scraping.
CCLINBLASTVILLE

[rhodyguy]

the one outfit that did it in our area went t.u. i've been thinking about getting a portable media pot. that's the minor expense. it's the compressor to run it that's the killer. my 25 gal won't keep up. perhaps rent a larger wheeled unit for a day. with most rust treatments they don't want you to blast it first. you remove the heavy loose stuff and then treat. you have to be ready to coat with something or the metal will flash rust in no time, and the cycle starts all over again.

kevin