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> Shift Linkage Cone Screwed, Removing the Cone Screw
2-OH!
post Oct 19 2003, 08:07 PM
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I am trying to remove the Cone Screw from the linkage between the two shifter rods...It's been there thirty years and it ain't movin...Rusted so tight the allen wrench won't budge it...

Before I attempt to drill it out, anyone have an Idea...


Thanks
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Elliot_Cannon
post Oct 19 2003, 08:18 PM
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Hi,
I had trouble with mine as well. I tried some liquid wrench. I sprayed it on and am not sure how much actually penetrated. Instead of an allen wrench that can sometimes have a little flex, I used a hex socket. I would try that and then when everything strips out you can drill it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Or try this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Then this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
Cheers, Elliot
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rhodyguy
post Oct 19 2003, 08:19 PM
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try spaying PO Blaster on it and let it sit. repeat, repeat,... stick the allen wrench in it and tap on it a bit. available at schucks/als. welcome, there seems to be a number of folks coming on from the seattle area. i've noticed a few newbies lately.

kevin
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 20 2003, 12:07 AM
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Use everything listed above... but.. try to tighten it first (if you havent already) The thought behind this is to get it moving in "any" direction.

I also agree that you need to purchase a set of 3/8 drive allen sockets for the car. The wrenches just dont cut it for everything.


B
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Andy Somnifac
post Oct 20 2003, 12:16 PM
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I'm having the same problem with the screw at the end of the rear shift rod. What I was thinking of trying was sacrificing a allen wrench and applying somethink like JB Weld into the head of the screw and putting the wrench in that and letting it harden. Any thoughts on if that would work?

Andy
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 20 2003, 12:30 PM
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At this point you have nothing to loose by trying the JB Weld. IF..IF it doesnt work.. you will have one hell of a mess on your hands and will end up cutting the coupler off the rod.


Welcome to the BBS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) (I'm late by 4 posts..but I'm out of town right now)


B
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Mueller
post Oct 20 2003, 12:50 PM
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I've had to drill these out before....if the taper gets damaged, it can be repaired (epoxy), at the same time, I helicoiled the threaded portion to help prevent this from happening again.
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Andy Somnifac
post Oct 20 2003, 12:52 PM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Oct 20 2003, 10:30 AM)
At this point you have nothing to loose by trying the JB Weld. IF..IF it doesnt work.. you will have one hell of a mess on your hands and will end up cutting the coupler off the rod.


Welcome to the BBS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) (I'm late by 4 posts..but I'm out of town right now)


B

Then the late welcome is forgiven (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif)

And as for the JB Weld, I was going to *attempt* to be as fine with it as I could and get as little of it as I could on the wrench and stick it right in there to minimize any spillout that will get all over the outside of screw, and all over the coupler. I hope there won't be tooooooo much of a mess. But either way it needs to come out. The bushing at the end of the rear shift rod HAS to be replaced...

Andy
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2-OH!
post Oct 20 2003, 01:08 PM
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Thanks guys...I'm afraid the head is stripped, inside...

The JB Weld idea from Andy has merit, but if it doesn't work or the Allen shaft breaks off, you've lost that nice starting point for a drill bit. Particularly if you have to drill the Allen wrench...Its much harder
material than the screw...
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Andy Somnifac
post Oct 20 2003, 01:23 PM
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QUOTE(2-OH! @ Oct 20 2003, 11:08 AM)
Thanks guys...I'm afraid the head is stripped, inside...

The JB Weld idea from Andy has merit, but if it doesn't work or the Allen shaft breaks off, you've lost that nice starting point for a drill bit. Particularly if you have to drill the Allen wrench...Its much harder
material than the screw...

That's one thing that does have me a little concerned. However, there's always the small chance that if it does break off, it could break off high enough that there's enough to get some sort of vice grips on it and use that. Unfortunately I'm going to have to wait till this weekend to give it a go. If you are brave enough to give it a try, let me know how it goes. If you don't get to it, or go a different route I'll post the results on Sunday morning after I give it a try.

Andy
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ss6
post Oct 20 2003, 01:38 PM
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I had the same problem awhile back, stripped head, Loctited in, here's how I got it out:

The set screw actually protruded from the hole slightly, so I got the old Dremel tool out and ground a slot in it for a large screwdriver.

Second, I heated the immediate area with a propane torch for awhile to get any expansion / softening of loctite I could. (If you have other items in close proximity, use a couple layers of alum foil for shielding.) You may need to replace the firewall bushing if the shift rod gets real hot.

This plus a little cussin' got the damn thing out.
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2-OH!
post Oct 27 2003, 08:46 AM
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Thanks guys, I tried all the suggestions and the combinations worked...I got it out, saved the coupling and the screw as well...

Bought a socket/hex set, took the 4MM and glued it in with JB Weld overnight...Next day, intense pressure on the breakover bar and the socket into the screw, tighten just a crotch hair first, then back it out...Take the screw to the vise and a quick impact on the socket and the tool pops right out, good as new leaving the screw intact with a new JB Weld lining ...

Thanks again....
2-OH!
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 27 2003, 10:58 AM
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Holy cow.. something we said went correctly ?? The world stopped for justa minute.

Good job. Nice to hear some success stories.



B
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fiid
post Oct 27 2003, 11:11 AM
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That JB-Weld stuff must be pretty strong stuff!!! Where do you get it from? WHat is it?

l8r,

Fiid.
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 27 2003, 11:11 AM
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How long have you been Fiid ??

ALL parts stores carry JB Weld.


B
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Dave_Darling
post Oct 27 2003, 12:37 PM
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Think, "two-part epoxy".

Two-Oh, throw that screw away and buy new ones. Throw both of yours away and buy a handful of new ones, for that matter. Not worth it to have to go through this again next time...

--DD
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2-OH!
post Oct 27 2003, 02:02 PM
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Thanks Dave...you are right...Screws are probably cheaper than the JB Weld by itself...
2-OH!
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Andy Somnifac
post Oct 27 2003, 03:23 PM
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QUOTE(2-OH! @ Oct 27 2003, 06:46 AM)
Thanks guys, I tried all the suggestions and the combinations worked...I got it out, saved the coupling and the screw as well...

Bought a socket/hex set, took the 4MM and glued it in with JB Weld overnight...Next day, intense pressure on the breakover bar and the socket into the screw, tighten just a crotch hair first, then back it out...Take the screw to the vise and a quick impact on the socket and the tool pops right out, good as new leaving the screw intact with a new JB Weld lining ...

Thanks again....
2-OH!

Unfortunately I didn't have the good fortune you did. The JB weld just twisted out... I let it cure for nearly 2 days... It's looking more and more like I'm going to have to destroy something to get the coupler off... Anyone have any other ideas?

Andy
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fiid
post Oct 27 2003, 05:36 PM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Oct 27 2003, 09:11 AM)
How long have you been Fiid ??

ALL parts stores carry JB Weld.


B

Since I was like 15.

I guess it's the equivalent of Araldite in England. Excellent to have finally located it's US counterpart :-)
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porsche735
post Oct 27 2003, 06:41 PM
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A trick I use fairly often is to use both the allen wrench and a combination wrench. It is tough to describe, but here's my try:

1)Insert the short end of the allen wrench in the stuck allen screw as usual.
2)Slide the round (12 point) side of your combination wrench over teh long part of the allen wrench.
3) "lean" the combination wrench over the long part of the allen wrench.
4) using your new long lever allen wrench, remove the screw with ease...

yes, it's just that easy....oh yeah, and lots of swearing and penetrating fluid

chris
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