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> PorSTi Project Thread…, Well that was fun, time to make some upgrades!
Amenson
post Sep 1 2016, 09:34 PM
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One step forward and two steps back today.

Great point is that I fished the tube through the tunnel. I buckled the mouth of the tube and taped it into a point. Add a bit of silicone spray and it went through pretty easily.

Bad news is that I was able to confirm just how little room I have behind the fuel tank to make the turn. It fits back there but not very well. Playing with the feasibility of pie cutting a 90deg bend to reduce the radius to make the fit a bit more comfortably.

Attached Image

It will work but is a lot more effort than I was planning to spend on the project.

Cheers,
Scott
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mskala
post Sep 2 2016, 08:20 AM
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QUOTE(Amenson @ Aug 31 2016, 02:07 PM) *

Update on the Elephant Front strut monoballs. They agree that the parts do not fit the 914 camber plates properly and offered to refund the purchase or send me a pair of 911 plates. I really like the parts so I am having the 911 camber plates sent. I offered in return to send my 914 camber plates so they can adapt the parts to our cars. They agreed on the swap so maybe sometime in the future they will be compatible with our cars.

Cheers,
Scott


I guess I found that out a couple years ago. I thought it was just me. A bit of
machining (on the nut I think) to get the damn thing to fit.
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Amenson
post Sep 6 2016, 09:18 PM
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Had a great evening in the garage. Project "don't mess up a cooling system that is already rock solid" is progressing nicely. I look forward to its completion and a dramatic lack of change in functionality (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Passenger side routed over the steering rack hump.
Attached Image

Attached Image

Eventually it will run next to the fuel tank and into the top of the radiator.
Attached Image

I wanted to run it under the fuel tank but there just is not room. It will meet the requirement that it will be even or lower than the top of the radiator.

Driver side routed over the steering rack hump...
Attached Image

Behind...
Attached Image

and under fuel tank.

Attached Image

Entire suction side tube will be well below the majority of the volume of the radiator. This is the primary benefit of the project.

All that is remaining is to modify the radiator connections and fix the leak. I also need to install some low profile edge protection to keep the tube from chafing. Any suggestions?

Back on track to go Oktoberfest to Okteenerfest!!

Cheers,
Scott
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Andyrew
post Sep 6 2016, 09:54 PM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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Are you going to replace the bent/collapsed tube with steel? If not I recommend this..

I use another layer of tube to keep the tube from chafing. That and duct tape works surprisingly well in un-scene areas.


Have you test fit the gas tank in that area? Or is the silver tank you gas tank?
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Amenson
post Sep 7 2016, 07:28 AM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 6 2016, 11:54 PM) *

Are you going to replace the bent/collapsed tube with steel? If not I recommend this..

I use another layer of tube to keep the tube from chafing. That and duct tape works surprisingly well in un-scene areas.


Have you test fit the gas tank in that area? Or is the silver tank you gas tank?


The tube is only lightly kinked. A bit of heat and pressure and it should pop out. The tubes I pulled out from the previous routing took a set with some pretty impressive permanent bends.

I ended up finding some really nice edge trim from Trim-lok. Comes in several sizes for different thicknesses of metal. Hopefully it is as bendable as advertised. Should look almost OEM!

Cheers,
Scott
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76-914
post Sep 7 2016, 08:00 AM
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QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 6 2016, 08:18 PM) *

Had a great evening in the garage. Project "don't mess up a cooling system that is already rock solid" is progressing nicely. I look forward to its completion and a dramatic lack of change in functionality (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Passenger side routed over the steering rack hump.
Attached Image

Attached Image

Eventually it will run next to the fuel tank and into the top of the radiator.
Attached Image

I wanted to run it under the fuel tank but there just is not room. It will meet the requirement that it will be even or lower than the top of the radiator.

Driver side routed over the steering rack hump...
Attached Image

Behind...
Attached Image

and under fuel tank.

Attached Image

Entire suction side tube will be well below the majority of the volume of the radiator. This is the primary benefit of the project.

All that is remaining is to modify the radiator connections and fix the leak. I also need to install some low profile edge protection to keep the tube from chafing. Any suggestions?

Back on track to go Oktoberfest to Okteenerfest!!

Cheers,
Scott

1st, I agree with Andrew on the bends. There are spiral spring wraps to prevent that. FWIW, each 90 elbow has the parasitic drag value = to 12ft of tubing! What is the reasoning behind elevating or lowering the radiator hoses in relation to the radiator? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent
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Andyrew
post Sep 7 2016, 08:33 AM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 7 2016, 06:28 AM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 6 2016, 11:54 PM) *

Are you going to replace the bent/collapsed tube with steel? If not I recommend this..

I use another layer of tube to keep the tube from chafing. That and duct tape works surprisingly well in un-scene areas.


Have you test fit the gas tank in that area? Or is the silver tank you gas tank?


The tube is only lightly kinked. A bit of heat and pressure and it should pop out. The tubes I pulled out from the previous routing took a set with some pretty impressive permanent bends.

I ended up finding some really nice edge trim from Trim-lok. Comes in several sizes for different thicknesses of metal. Hopefully it is as bendable as advertised. Should look almost OEM!

Cheers,
Scott


Radiator tubes dont work like that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I suggest making some steel pipes for that or else those tubes will collapse every time they cool down and possibly not expand after some use.
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Andyrew
post Sep 7 2016, 08:37 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 7 2016, 07:00 AM) *


FWIW, each 90 elbow has the parasitic drag value = to 12ft of tubing!


I believe this 100%. On my exhaust I have 3' straight pipe to a mandrel 90 (3" tube). The exhaust before the 90 barely gets warm, but the exhaust at the 90 is blueing. Note its stainless steel.

If anything your going to retain quite a bit of heat in those areas.

Im all for thinking outside the box, but whats really wrong with routing the hoses under the car? At this point you've done most of the work already but still.
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Chris H.
post Sep 7 2016, 08:56 AM
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Yeah just trying to help here so no offense at all. I really admire your fabrication skills, which far exceed mine, but those kinked hoses need to be fixed or you might have a flow problem as Andrew said. You can try squeezing the kinked area in the opposite direction several times and see if it will take on a more normal shape permanently. If not you need to change those out to slightly longer pieces so that they don't buckle like that or go with a 90 degree aluminum piece in the middle. I had the same problem because the thicker the hose the less pliable. Had to make more dramatic turns to get the kinks out. The hose needs to be shaped like an oval at LEAST, and not kinked or flattened at all. I went from 2 smaller hoses under the car with reducers and several connections to 2 larger hoses with no adapters or flow interruptors and the difference is crazy. It will BARELY get to 185 now. 2 pythons under the car.

Keep at it! The car is getting better and better! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Amenson
post Sep 7 2016, 10:49 AM
Post #550


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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 7 2016, 10:33 AM) *

QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 7 2016, 06:28 AM) *


The tube is only lightly kinked. A bit of heat and pressure and it should pop out. The tubes I pulled out from the previous routing took a set with some pretty impressive permanent bends.

I ended up finding some really nice edge trim from Trim-lok. Comes in several sizes for different thicknesses of metal. Hopefully it is as bendable as advertised. Should look almost OEM!

Cheers,
Scott


Radiator tubes dont work like that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I suggest making some steel pipes for that or else those tubes will collapse every time they cool down and possibly not expand after some use.


Then how do you explain this?
Attached Image

I am fully prepared to fab up a nice section of aluminum tube for the areas if it does not go as planned but I really want to avoid hose clamped connections on a high temp, high pressure liquid in the cabin of the car.

Background for rerouting the lines:
-There are currently two hose clamped connections behind each speaker pod waiting to fail and kill me.
-Water pumps should have the "suction" side flooded so they do not actually have to suck. I am really surprised I have not had problems already. There must be enough water volume in the longs to keep the pump happy.
-Having the tubes as the highest point in the system makes it really hard to bleed.
-I did not like the way it looked.

Running the cooling lines under the car works perfectly well for many people but, in my not so humble opinion, is just a lazy way to do it that introduces unacceptable risk.

Cheers,
Scott
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914forme
post Sep 7 2016, 01:45 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Now get back to it, and button this thing up. You have a plane to catch. BTW, did you use the Parker's, I want to see some beads. And not the kind you get in the Mardi Gras parade.

You could also add some metal splash shields over the hoses as they enter and exit the cabin. Hot liquids in you lap are no good. Also add contents are hot stickers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Your wife would love that. Safety First (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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Amenson
post Sep 7 2016, 03:07 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 7 2016, 03:45 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Now get back to it, and button this thing up. You have a plane to catch. BTW, did you use the Parker's, I want to see some beads. And not the kind you get in the Mardi Gras parade.

You could also add some metal splash shields over the hoses as they enter and exit the cabin. Hot liquids in you lap are no good. Also add contents are hot stickers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Your wife would love that. Safety First (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)


The the Parker beader is everything I hoped and dreamed it would be. Arms got a bit tired after a few but the results are excellent. Unfortunately the tubes were all installed before I got out the camera. I will take some pictures when I have it apart to install the edge trim.

I will eventually cover the tubes somehow. Thinking about trying my hand at fiberglass...pretty complicated shape to make neatly out of metal w/o buying an English wheel or other metal forming tools.

I have avoided having warning stickers applied to the car so far, hope to keep it that way.

Cheers,
Scott
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Amenson
post Sep 7 2016, 07:12 PM
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Stephen...found a piece I had beaded but not used.

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Puuurty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Nothing better than having the perfect tool for the job. Now come pry them out of my cold dead hands! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

Cheers,
Scott
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charliew
post Sep 8 2016, 08:25 AM
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In the 70's when we had 10:1 compression and wanted to run high octane with the sbc we ran a tank that was pressurized to keep the air out. It was just a sealed tank with it's cap sealed and it's outlet at the bottom and the one on the radiator just sealing at the top but the overflow went to the sealed tank. The tank had a schraeder valve on it to pressureize the system. The sealed tank meant you didn't have to have the tank at the highest point also. sbc's were bad about air pockets in the heads and the cooling was marginal at best.All we really were doing was raising the boiling point and maybe not loosing coolant. At that time you needed a modded alternator to keep up with the two electric fans at idle if you also ran ac. I just thought about all the different tries we attempted to use high compression on the street reading this.

That beader is really a nice tool. On my son's suby we actually used a strap between the clamps at the throttle body hose clamps to keep it from blowing off at 30 psi. Even a bead wasn't enough. But now that I think about it, it was always the tb side that came off so maybe that bead wasn't as big as the tube bead.
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Amenson
post Sep 8 2016, 08:32 AM
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A pair of 911 camber plates arrived from Elephant. Back on track to to install the Monoball strut mounts.

Question, the camber plates are asymmetric. How do I tell which one goes on the passenger side and which driver? I did not see a part number but they were pretty grimy so maybe I missed it.

Cheers,
Scott
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914forme
post Sep 8 2016, 09:18 AM
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QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 7 2016, 09:12 PM) *

Stephen...found a piece I had beaded but not used.

Attached Image

Puuurty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Nothing better than having the perfect tool for the job. Now come pry them out of my cold dead hands! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

Cheers,
Scott

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I'll learn to leave no tool behind. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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ruby914
post Sep 17 2016, 12:33 AM
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Hey Scott,
I see you, Chris and Kent all working on coolant line plumbing. Yours is the STI, not a 6, so I check yours first. I am again thinking about rerouting my 1.25 ID ~ 1.62OD lines from under the car to behind the kick panel and out side of the longs.
The hose would turn in sharply into the cabin, the same as yours. That turn, even before where yours kinked, is the problem area.
I had a 1/2 baked plan last year. Something like welding in a 1.75 guide tube and feed the hose thru... I try to revisit and work out the bugs again. A smaller hose would help. Kent may have found the small hose limit. What size coolant lines are you using?
PS. ELYSIAN Space Dust powered this post.
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76-914
post Sep 17 2016, 02:44 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) Just wanted to make a quick point. I have absolutely no cooling problems with the 7/8 & 3/4 hoses since changing over to the Celica dual core. My only cooling problem happened with the Scirocco single core radiator, running 3500-4500rpm uphill for 5-10 mins, out of the desert 95F. That's asking a lot from that setup. I switched to dual core when I added AC as a precaution. If I didn't have a propensity to drive like a juvenile dare devil I might have keep the system as it was. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Regardless, the reason I am upsizing to 1.3/8" is some unfounded theory that I made up in my feeble mind which convinced me that with high rpm and restricted flow I increased the pressure on the system resulting in my head gasket failure. I plan on leaving the small hoses in the longs in case I change my mind again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Highjack over. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent
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mepstein
post Sep 17 2016, 03:07 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 17 2016, 04:44 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) Just wanted to make a quick point. I have absolutely no cooling problems with the 7/8 & 3/4 hoses since changing over to the Celica dual core. My only cooling problem happened with the Scirocco single core radiator, running 3500-4500rpm uphill for 5-10 mins, out of the desert 95F. That's asking a lot from that setup. I switched to dual core when I added AC as a precaution. If I didn't have a propensity to drive like a juvenile dare devil I might have keep the system as it was. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Regardless, the reason I am upsizing to 1.3/8" is some unfounded theory that I made up in my feeble mind which convinced me that with high rpm and restricted flow I increased the pressure on the system resulting in my head gasket failure. I plan on leaving the small hoses in the longs in case I change my mind again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Highjack over. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent

Leave the hoses in the longs? All that extra weight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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76-914
post Sep 17 2016, 04:57 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 17 2016, 02:07 PM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 17 2016, 04:44 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) Just wanted to make a quick point. I have absolutely no cooling problems with the 7/8 & 3/4 hoses since changing over to the Celica dual core. My only cooling problem happened with the Scirocco single core radiator, running 3500-4500rpm uphill for 5-10 mins, out of the desert 95F. That's asking a lot from that setup. I switched to dual core when I added AC as a precaution. If I didn't have a propensity to drive like a juvenile dare devil I might have keep the system as it was. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Regardless, the reason I am upsizing to 1.3/8" is some unfounded theory that I made up in my feeble mind which convinced me that with high rpm and restricted flow I increased the pressure on the system resulting in my head gasket failure. I plan on leaving the small hoses in the longs in case I change my mind again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Highjack over. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent

Leave the hoses in the longs? All that extra weight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Yeah, as long as I'm experimenting it won't hurt anything to leave them in temporarily. I won't notice 5-8 extra lb's. You'll see soon enough. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Besides, I'm used to running heavy. I usually run about a 1/2 ounce heavier than everyone else. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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