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> My lightweight project, more progress photos
URY914
post Mar 1 2003, 06:47 PM
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Work continues:

I started to fabricate the hood extention which replaces and covers the cowl area. I've also formed a flaring at the instrament "pod". If you look closely at the fender/door joint you'll notice there isn't a joint. I fiberglassed the fender/door/rocker panel together into a one piece unit. By doing this I was able to cut away some more sheet metal. (metal=weight=slow).
Working with fiberglass is easy-make a mistake and grind it off and redo it. But wear a dust mask, the inside of my garage is covered in f/g dust.

Tell me what you think, I can take it.
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URY914
post Mar 1 2003, 06:48 PM
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Here's more
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URY914
post Mar 1 2003, 06:50 PM
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Here is the fender/door/rocker panel
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URY914
post Mar 1 2003, 06:50 PM
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and a full side shot
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r_towle
post Mar 1 2003, 06:53 PM
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check out gunnar racing at http://www.gunnarracing.com

I liked the way he did the silver 914...

Look at the way he covered the passenger compartment...

Looks like you are well on your way...

good luck.
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URY914
post Mar 1 2003, 06:57 PM
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I've seen that Gunner car but if I had a shop like that and full time crew to work on it I'd be done by now.
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Jeroen
post Mar 1 2003, 07:09 PM
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Hey Paul,

That's a serious amount of sheetmetal you cut out!
Great!

I see you also finished the x-braces on the doors...

what's next, f/g rear panels?

cheers,

Jeroen
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URY914
post Mar 1 2003, 07:17 PM
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The door bars aren't welded in yet, but that will be tomorrow.
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thesey914
post Mar 1 2003, 07:28 PM
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Those are some pretty tall velocity stacks poking out ot the engine bay.
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J P Stein
post Mar 1 2003, 08:24 PM
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Slather some bondo on there, a little rattle can primer....better still, leave it as is.
Somebody's car has gotta' look rattier than mine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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URY914
post Mar 1 2003, 09:47 PM
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I'm trying to get the middle and front done before I tackle the rear end. Next will be the driver's door. There is a lot of metal at the hinge end of the door. I musta broke three blades cutting it out.

The velocity stacks always get some comments. I think they are more show than go. It looks neat when it backfires and flame tops out!

Bondo is next. I found a friend who will paint it for me but I have a lot of detail work before that.
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 2 2003, 01:34 PM
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very cool idea....kinda nappy looking for now right? well on your way to being the next ritchie ginther eh? lol...keep up the good work and inform us of your progress regularly

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)
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Don Wohlfarth
post Mar 3 2003, 10:34 AM
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Do the holes in the fender help with brake cooling, before, after?
I get a little concerned that you have removed the front door post. I flipped a 14 end over end forward. On one of the revolutions the car came down on the side, passenger door had come open, and it pushed the door post toward center of car about 3 inches and put a Z in the rear bulkhead about 3 inches deep. Not sure that's a good place to try and save weight.
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Dave_Darling
post Mar 3 2003, 10:46 AM
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Good point, Don. However--

Check out the pic with the door/fender removed. Pretty much right where the forward door jamb used to be is a great big metal tube. This tube is, IMHO, stronger than the original door jamb. Particularly as it is tied into a bunch of other structure. I don't think he's compromised the strength of the chassis there. In fact, I'd bet that he could put the car over on its top and the roll structure wouldn't bend an inch. (Though I don't want to see that demonstrated the "hard way"!!)

Also, this is an autoX-only car, I believe. It is very very difficult to roll any 914 at an autoX. I'm sure it can be done, but it requires a curb or something else that isn't exactly "level pavement". The risks are lower than on the Big Track.

--DD
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URY914
post Mar 3 2003, 11:54 AM
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Thanks for you input Dave,
I would agree that the tubes I've added more than makes up for the sheetmetal I've removed. And the car's overall weight of the car is less.

As Dave stated and so have I, this is a purpose built autox car. If I manage to flip this in an autox I'll be sure to post the pictures and retire my helmet.

PAul
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Don Wohlfarth
post Mar 3 2003, 02:39 PM
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Dave, the great big post in place of forward door jam appears to be 1 1/2 in.
Hard to tell from pictures but there is no dash or front firewall and may not (?) have the bulkhead between the shock towers.
Paul, in MY OPINION you're kidding yourself to think it is as strong as the front firewall that you've removed. At the least I'd think you'd want to run a piece of 1 1/2 between the shock towers and from the middle of that run the same size back to the front hoop under the cowl close to where the door post was located.
What organization are you running with and what class?
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Jeroen
post Mar 3 2003, 03:38 PM
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Hey Don,

Check this thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=317

You'll get a better picture of Paul's front tubing there
I'd say it'll do (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

cheers,

Jeroen
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MJHanna
post Mar 3 2003, 04:06 PM
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My only concern would be how easy is it to take on and off to put more fuel in the tank? Is it going to be a pain in the ass every time you refuel? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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Brad Roberts
post Mar 3 2003, 05:32 PM
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Its starting to look like Bill Newlins old car.


B
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Don Wohlfarth
post Mar 3 2003, 05:55 PM
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Jeroen, thanks for the link showing the front end without the hood.
Paul, I'm really not trying to rain on your parade, you've put a hell of lot of work into your project.
Rule #1 when doing almost any modification to your car is how it will effect whatever class you want to run. This starts getting real ugly real fast as what one organization will accept the next one will not.
For the sake of argument SCCA may be the most comprehensive of the organizatons at least as far as ax goes. (SCCA has never been very fair to any ax Porsche but that's another story.) If your car meets SCCA regs you are usually in pretty good shape to ax with anyone.
You will need a roll bar and it's based on weight: under 1000# min of 1" X .060 wall ERW or DOM mild steel tubing, over 1000# 1 1/4 X .090 wall, and over 1500# 1 1/2 X .120. As to bracing it is "recommended that all bracing be of the same size as the roll bar itself."
There's several other items in roll bar design and then SCCA covers themselves with the all inclusive "roll bars of alternate materials or design may be accepted upon presentation of data verifying strength equivalence to the required standards."
To further complicate the picture SCCA requires that "Firewalls and floors shall prevent the passage of flames and debris to the drivers compartment."
On top of that they add "Modifications to the floor pand and frame/subframe exceeding those allowed shall result in a 15% weight penalty."
I'd suggest that you get a copy of the rule book for whatever organization you are running with and see how their rules may effect your car. For example putting in an aluminum firewall in the front could keep you from adding the 15% weight penalty. 15% of 1500# is another 250#.
You may not know the rules but I'll guarantee you that your competitor does, especially when you start running for Top Time of Day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Good luck with your project.
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