 Chemical dipping vs. Sandblasting, Whats better? |
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| dryheat914 |
 Oct 26 2003, 06:45 PM
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#1
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It's all good!  Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 21-August 03 From: Surprise, Az Member No.: 1,059  |
I have the 72 stripped down and have done some work on the body. I keep wanting to go to bare metal over the whole car but have heard of horror stories about chemical bleed through....Have any of you guys done this?, I know the heater tubes in the longs will be gone but I don't plan on heat anyway. (don't really need it)
Is sandblasting more economical?, I really want to start fresh. Give me your thoughts..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Thanks Chris |
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| boxstr |
Oct 26 2003, 08:14 PM
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#2
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MEMBER:PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION Group: Members Posts: 7,522 Joined: 25-December 02 From: OREGON Member No.: 12 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Check your local yellow pages for a media blasting facility. Check with local rod builders or body shops that build custom cars.
Media(plastic beads) or walnut blasting is the best way to go. CCLINBLASTLAND |
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| Bigbohr |
Oct 26 2003, 08:17 PM
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#3
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Superlurker Group: Members Posts: 224 Joined: 19-September 03 From: Houston, TX Member No.: 1,176 |
Hey Chris, I'm investigating the same ...
Sandblasting does not seem to be a good idea. It's too abrasive. Meaning you can blast holes in the sheetmetal. You need to beadblast if you want to use this method. Found some info about chemical dip on hotrodder sites. Somebody made that same remark about what could happen if not all the chemicals are washed off. Most of them did not seem to have any trouble though. Hope that helps |
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| Bigbohr |
Oct 26 2003, 08:21 PM
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#4
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Superlurker Group: Members Posts: 224 Joined: 19-September 03 From: Houston, TX Member No.: 1,176 |
BTW, I inquired about price for chemical dip here in Houston. It's about $1,000 including putting on an anti-rust coat in the end.
Please post the end result of your cost comparison. I'd be interested. |
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| boxstr |
Oct 26 2003, 08:24 PM
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#5
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MEMBER:PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION Group: Members Posts: 7,522 Joined: 25-December 02 From: OREGON Member No.: 12 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Complete media blast here in Portland Oregon area , will run about $400.
CCLINCAMP914 |
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| ChrisReale |
Oct 26 2003, 08:36 PM
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#6
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Sleazy Group: Members Posts: 2,665 Joined: 20-January 03 From: San Francisco Member No.: 176 |
Chem dip will get everything out of the cracks that a blast wont. Downside is you need to have everything out of the car, basically down to a bare tub. One place a sand balst wont do well is the inside of the longs. A chem dip will soak all the shit outta there, where a blast will just load up sand and not get to the center of the longs where you want it to access.
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| Air_Cooled_Nut |
Oct 26 2003, 08:36 PM
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#7
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914 Ronin - 914 owner who lost his 914club.com Group: Members Posts: 1,748 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Beaverton, Oregon Member No.: 584 Region Association: None |
One thing we've talked about in the VW side of the world is that dipping is NOT a good idea for a whole car. The reason is not so much that some of the dip will be left in the chassis but that it will strip any and all protective coatings/primers in the chassis, spaces and crevices that most likely are not easily accessable for recoating (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Stick with media blasting. Blasting with baking soda, I've heard, works well too. |
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| davep |
Oct 26 2003, 08:44 PM
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#8
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,138 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada  |
Media blasting is very good, but one must be careful still. The BIG problem with sandblasting is that it gets the panels too hot and they will warp; especially doors, lids, and fenders with big flat areas.
DaveP |
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| David_S |
Oct 26 2003, 08:53 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 430 Joined: 11-May 03 From: Dimmitt, Tx Member No.: 680 Region Association: Southwest Region |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I would agree with everything that everyone else has said! I sandblasted my 73 a couple of years ago and to this day I can still tap around on it and get sand out of it, even after spending about 2 weeks blowing out all of the cracks and crevices before primering it. I also managed to warp the sail panel area just a little bit, but not too much. I have never tried the chemical dip, but right after blasting my 73, I had a 65 mustang convertible blasted with plastic beads and was very impressed with it, but the beads still get into places that you wouldn't think they could. So, from now on, until I can try dipping one, I will stick with the plastic bead blasting! |
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| rhodyguy |
Oct 26 2003, 11:00 PM
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#10
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,073 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
sand, kleen blast etc, are no good. no good. the crap will be everywhere, the residual will grind every place it gets into, and you will not get it all out. every nook and cranny. after you put your car back together and turn on the heat for the first time, guess what blows out of the vents, falls from behind the dash? guess what gets down in the pedal assem, the seat rails, heater controls,etc.? save the sand for tanker hulls.
kevin "ground down" |
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| SirAndy |
Oct 26 2003, 11:14 PM
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#11
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,623 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(dryheat914 @ Oct 26 2003, 05:45 PM) I have the 72 stripped down and have done some work on the body. I keep wanting to go to bare metal over the whole car but have heard of horror stories about chemical bleed through....Have any of you guys done this?, I know the heater tubes in the longs will be gone but I don't plan on heat anyway. (don't really need it) Is sandblasting more economical?, I really want to start fresh. Give me your thoughts..... NO SANDBLASTING !!!! i had mine sandblasted and it did the job, but that was almost a year ago and i STILL have sand seeping out of the cracks. it's a total mess ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) then, a few month ago, we had a tub (original 6) acid dipped and it turned out spotless. they dipped it in acid first, then in a neutralizing bath, then baked it in a giant oven to evaporate any leftover acid, then put it in primer. it's perfect. as for the heater tubes, just cut open the longs and take them out. only takes half an our per side. they are NLA, keep em! (or sell em for big $$$) ... if i had to do it again, acid dipping is the way to go! Andy |
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| Air_Cooled_Nut |
Oct 26 2003, 11:18 PM
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#12
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914 Ronin - 914 owner who lost his 914club.com Group: Members Posts: 1,748 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Beaverton, Oregon Member No.: 584 Region Association: None |
Yeah, a primer dip would be GREAT!
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| Brad Roberts |
Oct 27 2003, 01:40 AM
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#13
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
Everyone who has seen our acid dip tub has walked away with a new attitude of what "doing it right" means. The tub has sat on stands for several months now since returning from the big dip. If acid was going to "pop up" it would have done it already.
The people who say acid will pop up over time must have had their cars dipped by shops that dont know their ASS from a hole in the ground. The shop we take our stuff too has been doing this for over 25 years and they regularly have 15-20 American cars stripped ready for dipping. If there was an issue.. they would have figured it out by now. And as far as the QUOTE but that it will strip any and all protective coatings/primers in the chassis, spaces and crevices that most likely are not easily accessable for recoating BULLSHIT. The cars are welded together from the factory and THEN painted/coated. This means you can do the same damn thing AFTER the bath.I will say this: they cannot successfully acid dip late model cars (1990 and up) because the acid is not very strong and will not take off factory paint. Acid dipping for anything I build ground up. I still laugh my ass OFF when I see platic media under carpets of cars that where blasted. I also laugh at Andy's car with the sand...lol B |
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| SirAndy |
Oct 27 2003, 01:49 AM
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#14
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,623 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Oct 27 2003, 12:40 AM) I also laugh at Andy's car with the sand...lol hey! i'm having a beach party every time i go for a drive ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Andy |
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| Brad Roberts |
Oct 27 2003, 01:51 AM
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#15
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
Yep. Nothing like being sand blasted while you drive down the road. I can barely drive it with the windows down. It feels like the beach is in my eyelids after a few minutes.
B |
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| banderson |
Oct 27 2003, 07:53 AM
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#16
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Member Group: Members Posts: 88 Joined: 22-August 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 1,064 |
After acid dipping, can the tub be galvinized? It would be nice if didn't rust out again in 10 years.
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| trojanhorsepower |
Oct 27 2003, 08:19 AM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 861 Joined: 21-September 03 From: Marion, NC Member No.: 1,179 Region Association: None |
Hi Bigbohr
What part of Houston are you from. I grew up there. If I had the chance I would acid dip (no place to do it here in BFE). I just think it is better for the little hard to reach places. Good luck -Pete |
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| BravoHotel |
Oct 27 2003, 09:02 AM
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#18
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Member Group: Members Posts: 153 Joined: 5-March 03 From: Columbus, MS Member No.: 399 |
This process looks to be the ticket. Of course they are in Detroit... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
http://www.ecoatking.com/ ABOUT E-COATING: E-Coating is actually a two step process. The first step is chemical stripping of the metal component. Stripping removes foreign materials from the part. Paint, body filler, undercoating, grease and rust are all removed. The end result is a clean, paint and rust free component. The second step moves your part on a monorail system through a series of vats where it is washed and coated with a rust inhibitor. Epoxy primer is electrostatically applied and finally the component is cured in a bake oven. The resulting E-Coat primer finish is an excellent primer base which is compatible with all conventional lacquer and enamel top coats. Our two step E-Coat process offers many advantages: Thorough cleaning by chemical stripping Rust inhibiting pretreatment Thorough primer coating coverage Thermal curing to produce a high quality primer base E-Coating can put primer on those hard to reach areas such as: Internal surfaces Deep recesses Weldments Fasteners Small and large parts |
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| Brad Roberts |
Oct 27 2003, 10:56 AM
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#19
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
banderson,
The tub can be galvanized.. see BravoHotels post above (Thanks Bravo).. B |
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| Mark Henry |
Oct 27 2003, 11:29 AM
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#20
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
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