Fender issues, Finding more and more bondo Options

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

First off....(IMG:http://vwvortex.rely.net/zeroforum_graphics/mad.gif)

Grinding away the material around the front right side marker (obvious bondo there) and as I spread out I'm finding that the bondo continues -- in various thickness, btw -- beyond 6" from the marker. Yes, even sculpting the turn signal lip! The more I grind away the more unevenness I'm finding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fighting19.gif) So I've stopped grinding, kind of smoothed out the grinding in case I have to re-bondo the area so I won't have to reform the sharper contours myself.

The right fender was smacked, no doubt about it. Saw it in the headlight damage. So, would putting in a new fender be easier? I have some basic body shaping tools and experience from an automotive restoration class I took for a couple terms from the community college (good experience, I recommend it). My welding experience is above beginner with my MIG -- I don't have the smaller setup necessary for thin sheet metal welding for my oxy-ace. I've assisted some friends with welding a nose on an air-cooled VW (our first time and it was deadperfect! ). It's a little intimidating looking at all the contours and spot welds and seam sealer holding the fender on and I question whether I could do it myself (that's probably my biggest problem right there, self-doubt).

What are your recommendations? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Personally, I like the idea of a new fender: No shaping (hammering, bondo) required, just attach. My experience with fiberglass is limited to just a couple small uses and I would rather have a metal fender instead of a glass one. Thanks

[ArtechnikA]

...I like the idea of a new fender

do you like it $1100 worth ? that's what new rightside front fenders are going for...

they're quite the b!tch to remove from an existing tub, and will result in the destruction of that area of the chassis - if you're trying to save the fender (or the fender, if you're trying to save the tub ...)

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

Well just fuck me. So my only option is to bump and fill? Great. Just fucking great. This day just keeps getting worse.

[ArtechnikA]

...So my only option is to bump and fill? Great. ...

no, you have all the options you had before...

1) in-situ bodywork
2) get a good used fender from someone who's sliced up a body hit either back or left side, and put in the work to separate the fender parts cleanly (i wouldn't expect this for free but you never know...) or find a front clip or suarter panel and do the separation work yourself...
3) put on a fiberglass quarter panel
4) pay the money and put on a new steel fender.

it would have been nice if Karmann had made the 914 front quarters removable like Reutter was doing with the 911, but that's one of the prices we pay for having an 'entry-level' model ...

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

it would have been nice if Karmann had made the 914 front quarters removable like Reutter was doing with the 911, but that's one of the prices we pay for having an 'entry-level' model ...

I whole-heartedly agree! This is why I decided not to weld the seams on my VW. I would think it would've been easier/cheaper to manufacture bolt-on panels but...

So how do fiberglass fenders mount? I mean, if removing the stock unit is such a PITA then how does one mount a 'glass unit? Is part of the stock fender cut and the 'glass replaces it or ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

It's the in-situ body work I'm not too thrilled at performing. I would rather spend that time working on the rust in the battery area.

[Hawktel]

Thats a question I have! Can you make the Fiberglass fenders bolt on, bolt off, for easy cleaning and rust issues?

Anyone have a lecture on mounting Fibreglass Fenders, the complete fender, not just Flares?

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

bump

[tdgray]

No experience with FG Fenders but will put in my .02 on the fender fixing.

When I restored my MGA I started pricing new front fenders. After I pulled myself off the floor, $1800.00 a piece, I started looking for alternatives. A couple of suppliers offered replacement bottoms and a few other patch panels so thats what I did. Why does'nt anyone do this for the 914, or do they and I just don't know about it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

It seems, ACN, like your only alternative is just like my 914. Start grinding, clean it out good and then do the best job that you can reshaping and repairing those affected areas. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Not much fun but patience and a steady hand will prevail. Oh and use good filler.

Todd

[John Kelly]

Hi Toby,

If you have some pictures of the damage, I can try to walk you through the repair. Do you have some nice high quality hammers and dollies? Show close up pictures of the tools you have. You need a hammer with a slight crown and soft edges.

Somtimes its just a matter of getting the right contour in your dolly to match the up and down shape of the fender, and doing a lot of hammering to smooth everything out, then shrink a little, hammer and dolly some more etc.

You need to make sure the paint is all gone inside and out before starting. This is time consuming work. I think where most people have trouble is not spending enough time hammering, and not having a good shrinking technique.

Let me know if you want to jump in, and I'll try to help.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

John, your name was brought up by my good friend Brian Fye. He said I should contact you because you've made patch panels and metal flares for Ghia's and your wizardry could probably do the same for my 914 stuff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) I'm far more comfortable with my welding skills than metal shaping.

I have some quality tools, definitely, but there's no roominside the fender for swinging a hammer. The side marker area has been slightly pushed in and I can pull on it and it moves out. I was thinking of spot heat shrinking the metal to 'pull' it out more. First, I'm going to fill the holes because I don't want stock side markers, then I was going to worry about filling/smoothing the panel.

The panel is bumpy, like it was dented in and they beat the panel back to somewhat resemble the shape, then simply filled everything with bondo.

My girlfriend's digital camera went on the fritz so I can't post immediate pictures of the damage and tools...and the scanner cord just ain't long 'nuff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I'll see what I can use and send you images via email.

[watsonrx13]

This post is NOTHING without pics.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

You don't need to email John, post them here... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)

[John Kelly]

I have some quality tools, definitely, but there's no roominside the fender for swinging a hammer. The side marker area has been slightly pushed in and I can pull on it and it moves out. I was thinking of spot heat shrinking the metal to 'pull' it out more. First, I'm going to fill the holes because I don't want stock side markers, then I was going to worry about filling/smoothing the panel.

The panel is bumpy, like it was dented in and they beat the panel back to somewhat resemble the shape, then simply filled everything with bondo.

My girlfriend's digital camera went on the fritz so I can't post immediate pictures of the damage and tools...and the scanner cord just ain't long 'nuff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I'll see what I can use and send you images via email.

You should not necessarily need to hit from the inside with a hammer. You can bump up low spots with a dolly. More important is to hammer and dolly with the right dolly pushing out while hammering and smoothing the surface at the same time. It takes many hammer blows, all the while using the dolly to support and push out the metal. You will eventually have a smooth but slightly high surface that will require a little shrinking to get in to shape. I look forward to pictures!

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[r_towle]

I have a similar problem with the right side rust area.
I have several other tubs and plan on cutting a patch panel from the front of the fender, weld that in to give me a simple weld line to deal with rather than cutting out, weld in and reshaping all the rust damage.

I have not taken a close detailed look at it, but I have always believed that if they can build it, I can take it apart.
I have seen many threads on this topic and plan on taking detailed pics for everyone to see how the fender goes on and off
rich