brake job time-recommendations, Help with picking lines, rotors, pads Options

[7391420]

I'm planning out a brake job for my 73 2.0 and am wondering if people can make some recommendations:

-for a mostly street/occasional AutoX car,

1. what do people like for pads and rotors? I am planning on staying stock, but does anyone have good/bad experience with various kinds of each?

2. I need to replace the brake lines and am tempted to go DOT stainless, anyone have a favorite package?

3. The Pellican parts site has some good info on doing this work and I have the haynes guide, anyone have any adivice on the best way to do lines, pads and rotors?

-Thanks

[Part Pricer]

For a car that is going to be used mostly on the street, I would recommend that you not go overboard. The stock braking system on a 914, when properly maintained, is quite adequate.

For rotors, use the standard Zimmermans on the front and rear. Don't go with the cross-drilled. IMHO, it's a waste of money. You should also look at doing the wheel bearings at the same time.

For pads, I use a stock compound Pagid on the front and Metal Masters on the rear. I would stay away from any of the track compounds. For AX you need pads that will heat up quickly. Regular street pads will work best.

As for brake lines, that's up to you. I currently have DOT SS on my car. But, I will probably replace them with rubber over the winter. I plan on changing them every other year, so the additional expense of stainless is wasted.

[tommy914]

From my experience, carbon kevlar pads make your brakes SQEEEELLLL like a train.

wanna buy a set? barely used! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

Paul nailed it. I personally feel he is dead on with his thoughts about braking.

I just decided to post to welcome both of you to the BBS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) You've come to the right place.


B

[mike_the_man]

I've heard bad things about SS lines. For a street driven car, I don't think they a needed. I also hear that they wear out quicker, and you can't tell when they are cracked or worn. I'd say the stock rubber lines are more than adequate. Just my $.02.

[fiid]

How does one go about replacing the hard lines?? A couple of mine have seriously knackered nuts on them. Other than that they look fine.

What is the expected life of the hard line?

Fiid.

[ArtechnikA]

How does one go about replacing the hard lines??

What is the expected life of the hard line?

they're mild steel, so if they're not exposed to rusting conditions on the outside, and you change the brake fluid as recommended so the insids don't rust out - probably forever. or until the fitting getting buggered by people using Crescent wrenches and vise-grip pliers on them instead of the proper metric flare nut wrenches...

you go to the FLAPS and buy whatever you need - just get the proper European fitting versions - 10mm x 1,0 'bubble flare'. they come in many sizes for just about every application. you can also buy them from the dealer, and while they'll have exactly the right length, they won't be bent to fit - you still get to do that yourself. get the proper tubing bender gizmo from the FLAPS pegboard and you'll never kink a line.