Removing Outboard CVs, Yes, I did a search..... Options

[jr91472]

but if I missed the thread, could someone point me in the right direction.

Otherwise, I have the popular clunk sound that's been talked about lately. I THINK I have narrowed it down the the drivers side CV's. But I am not sure if it is the inboard our outboard CV joint.

Is it possible to remove the entire drivers side axle without taking apart the rear control arm? It seems like if all 8 CV bolts are removed, the axle and out board CV should pull away from the control arm. Yes? Maybe there isn't enough room with the control arm, heat exchanger, and tranny in place?

thanks for the help guys.

[slacy]

It seems like if all 8 CV bolts are removed, the axle and out board CV should pull away from the control arm. Yes?

I've had some trouble getting these out as well. I read Haynes to no avail (it was very vague in this respect). What I want to do is to totally remove the axles from the car. (My engine has already been removed) I assumed the outboard CVs were identical to the inboard ones, and that I could just loosen the 4 joints and pull, but this dosn't seem to be true.

Does anyone have better instructions for removing axles? (I searched pelicanparts as wel, to no avail...)

Steve

[Mueller]

yep...you have to remove the 4 bolts but the hang up will be the spring pins. it is usually easier to remove the entire axle which is not too difficult except for the axle nut that is tightened to 250 ft lbs or so.

reassembly is way easier if you remove the axle

[jhadler]

Just went through this not long ago. I had found, that after a few years of keeping my jackstands dust free, the outer right CV was binding pretty baddly. So, we tried to remove the CV. Got the bolts out no problem. But nothing short of a lightning bolt from Thor himself would get that sucker out of the hub. So...

Pull the axle. Wasn't that big a deal actually. Put the car back to the ground. Brace, and chock the wheel, and get a big a** cheater bar on the breaker bar and undo that big ol' castelated nut. Took way less effort to pull the hub than it did _trying_ to get the CV out from inside the trailing arm.

Brant and I tried for an entire evening to get that bugger out... Took me 15 minutes once I decided to pull the axle.

-Josh2

[Britain Smith]

Did you end up replacing the wheel bearing while you were there?

Hey Mueller, what happened to the VW type-1 modified CV's deal?

-Britain

[Aaron Cox]

Just went through this not long ago. I had found, that after a few years of keeping my jackstands dust free, the outer right CV was binding pretty baddly. So, we tried to remove the CV. Got the bolts out no problem. But nothing short of a lightning bolt from Thor himself would get that sucker out of the hub. So...

Pull the axle. Wasn't that big a deal actually. Put the car back to the ground. Brace, and chock the wheel, and get a big a** cheater bar on the breaker bar and undo that big ol' castelated nut. Took way less effort to pull the hub than it did _trying_ to get the CV out from inside the trailing arm.

Brant and I tried for an entire evening to get that bugger out... Took me 15 minutes once I decided to pull the axle.

-Josh2

yep... i can NEVER get em out of the stub axle...

so i always pull the stub and axle as an assembly, and split it there

[jr91472]

So after the castle nut is off, then the entire axle will pull out? (or in actually)

Do you have to remove the rotor, caliper, etc, etc?

[Aaron Cox]

So after the castle nut is off, then the entire axle will pull out? (or in actually)

Do you have to remove the rotor, caliper, etc, etc?

ok here is what the order of the axle is

Inner cv at trans, shaft, outer cv, stub axle, hub

when you pull the giant 30mm nut off the hub, you are releasing the STUB axle from the HUB. they are splined and it easily comes out.

so once you pull that nut off, you are free to pull inner cv/axle/outer CV/stub assembly out of the car....

no need to pull rotor! it has a big hole in the center so you can acces the hub nut....

[TravisNeff]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I had no problems doing this on two of my 914's. Once I got the CV bolts out, I took a dead blow hammer and smacked the backside of the inboard CV (which pulls the outboard CV in). I have also removed the cv from the outboard side by pushing the axle into the CV and yank it back a few times. Obviousy I had removed the inner CV from the trans first.

[jr91472]

Ah sweet!!! Thanks boys.

Now I just gotta find a BA torque wrench to put the castle nut back on.

Thanks again!!!

[jhadler]

You can look around for a BA torque wrench, or you can just use the cheater bar and breaker bar and a little math. Take 250 ft-lbs, divide by your weight, and that's where your hands should be on the lever arm of the wrench/breaker bar (in feet). You have to be able to get _all_ your weight on it (feet no longer on the ground).

Worked for me...

-Josh2

[MarkV]

If you pull the stub axle you run the risk of screwing up the bearing. Once you remove the bolts from the CV you can use the axle and outboard CV like a slide hammer. Push the axle all the way into the CV and yank a few times, the weight of the axle will do the work for you. I never pull the stub axle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[jhadler]

If you pull the stub axle you run the risk of screwing up the bearing. Once you remove the bolts from the CV you can use the axle and outboard CV like a slide hammer. Push the axle all the way into the CV and yank a few times, the weight of the axle will do the work for you. I never pull the stub axle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Beg pardon? How would pulling, and then replacing, the stub axle run the risk of damaging the bearing? You run just as much of a risk of screwing up the CV joint using it as a slide hammer, if not more of a risk.

The bearing does nothing more than sit there in the trailing arm when the stub axle is out. How does that damage it??

-Josh2

[gopack]

So after the castle nut is off, then the entire axle will pull out? (or in actually)

Do you have to remove the rotor, caliper, etc, etc?

ok here is what the order of the axle is

Inner cv at trans, shaft, outer cv, stub axle, hub

when you pull the giant 30mm nut off the hub, you are releasing the STUB axle from the HUB. they are splined and it easily comes out.

so once you pull that nut off, you are free to pull inner cv/axle/outer CV/stub assembly out of the car....

no need to pull rotor! it has a big hole in the center so you can acces the hub nut....

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
does the axel stub just slide out? Or is there a chance of the axial pressure of pressing/pushing it out damaging the bearing? I pounded mine out since I was having Eric Shea replace the bearings anyways.

Inquiring minds want to know!

[jhadler]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
does the axel stub just slide out? Or is there a chance of the axial pressure of pressing/pushing it out damaging the bearing? I pounded mine out since I was having Eric Shea replace the bearings anyways.

Inquiring minds want to know!

After the big nut came off, I was able to slide it out with one good tap from my rubber mallet. Just make sure the splines are nice and clean (ID and OD) when you re-install the stub axle.

There's no pressing the stub axle in or out. It should slide out fairly easilly. If you have to use that much force, then something is really rusted and you're gonna have to replace parts anyway...

-Josh2