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> Aux Air Regulator
PORobinSCHE
post Oct 10 2006, 06:20 PM
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greetings, can a 1.7L run without the AAR? (bypassed)
if not, i'll be needing one! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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mihai914
post Oct 10 2006, 07:19 PM
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If you bypass it with a straight piece of tube, your idle will be really high. If you remove it and plug the hose, you'll get some hard starting issues with really low idle untill the engine warms up. Best bet is to try and fix yours, if you plug it on 12V and the casing gets hot, then you may be able to repair it. Pour some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster in the ports, get the thing worm and gently tap the head to try to unstick the valve, try it numerous times and it will probably free up. If not you can probably find a good used one.
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PORobinSCHE
post Oct 10 2006, 07:52 PM
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QUOTE(mihai914 @ Oct 10 2006, 09:19 PM) *

If you bypass it with a straight piece of tube, your idle will be really high. If you remove it and plug the hose, you'll get some hard starting issues with really low idle untill the engine warms up. Best bet is to try and fix yours, if you plug it on 12V and the casing gets hot, then you may be able to repair it. Pour some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster in the ports, get the thing worm and gently tap the head to try to unstick the valve, try it numerous times and it will probably free up. If not you can probably find a good used one.

good advise.. with it plugged off starts ok, then again, it doesn't get that cold down here. when i plugged it back into the intake tube, the car will idle up and down(never stalls) just sounds like i am constantly revving up and down between 1000 and 1500.
i am think it's the AAR since it worked reasonable when disconnected.

Robin
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jim_hoyland
post Oct 10 2006, 07:59 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Went through this AAR issue myself. Several people recommended a good test to see if it works right. My favorite is to simply take the AAR out. Look through the passageway, should look about 25 -30% open at room temp; then hook up your + and - battery to the the two terminals on the AAR. Measure the time it takes to completely close and prevent you from seeing through the passageway, my good one closes in about 1min 50 sec, and yes it gets warmer. When it's closed, you'll find it difficult--but not impossible--to blow air through theAAR.
I found that have a working AAR makes early morning start up/idle pretty nice; I had deleted the AAR for a while to compare and it was difficult to get smooth start up idling.

That said, I have a 1.8 LJet; your's may react different.

Jim


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Air_Cooled_Nut
post Oct 11 2006, 12:56 AM
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http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...f=2&t=39113
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jsteele22
post Oct 11 2006, 03:04 PM
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Yeah, the thead AirCooledNut linked has some good info, as well as a picture of my cat's butt.

The AAR is really a very simple device. You can pry up the lip that seals the two halves together, and open it up. Definitely worth doing if yours is in fact busted. Electrically its just a piece of resistive wire that heats up (like a toaster) when you apply 12 V to it. Mechanically, its just a bi-metallic coil (like a mechanical thermostat) that rotates the valve as it gets hot.

One thing I didn't mention in my posting in the above thread : make sure you orient the two pars properly when you crimp them back together. Mine worked perfectly, but b/c of the way I reassembled it, it didn't fit !!! I was too lazy to redo it, so ever since I drove without it.
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PORobinSCHE
post Oct 11 2006, 05:39 PM
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QUOTE(jsteele22 @ Oct 11 2006, 05:04 PM) *

Yeah, the thead AirCooledNut linked has some good info, as well as a picture of my cat's butt.

The AAR is really a very simple device. You can pry up the lip that seals the two halves together, and open it up. Definitely worth doing if yours is in fact busted. Electrically its just a piece of resistive wire that heats up (like a toaster) when you apply 12 V to it. Mechanically, its just a bi-metallic coil (like a mechanical thermostat) that rotates the valve as it gets hot.

One thing I didn't mention in my posting in the above thread : make sure you orient the two pars properly when you crimp them back together. Mine worked perfectly, but b/c of the way I reassembled it, it didn't fit !!! I was too lazy to redo it, so ever since I drove without it.


very interesting, that you drove without the AAR. for shits & giggles i plugged the open ends and ran the car. seems to start and run the same. maybe i'll leave mine off too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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jsteele22
post Oct 11 2006, 07:43 PM
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QUOTE(PORobinSCHE @ Oct 11 2006, 05:39 PM) *

QUOTE(jsteele22 @ Oct 11 2006, 05:04 PM) *

Yeah, the thead AirCooledNut linked has some good info, as well as a picture of my cat's butt.

The AAR is really a very simple device. You can pry up the lip that seals the two halves together, and open it up. Definitely worth doing if yours is in fact busted. Electrically its just a piece of resistive wire that heats up (like a toaster) when you apply 12 V to it. Mechanically, its just a bi-metallic coil (like a mechanical thermostat) that rotates the valve as it gets hot.

One thing I didn't mention in my posting in the above thread : make sure you orient the two pars properly when you crimp them back together. Mine worked perfectly, but b/c of the way I reassembled it, it didn't fit !!! I was too lazy to redo it, so ever since I drove without it.


very interesting, that you drove without the AAR. for shits & giggles i plugged the open ends and ran the car. seems to start and run the same. maybe i'll leave mine off too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)


Yeah, the AAR is only there for when the engine is cold and needs a little extra air. If you don't drive much in cold weather, it's not so bad to use the other device that gives the engine extra air : it's controlled by a pedal inside the car.... Some folks call this method tap dancing.
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