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> Heavy Metal, What to cut or not to cut. That is the question
vincesix
post Oct 19 2006, 03:42 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I want to lighten up the 914. I want to remove some metal as opposed to buying a bunch of fiberglass. I will weld in a chrome moly cage but like my doors and hoods. What happens when the rear trunk floor is removed ( not supports or cross bracing ) to the cars ridigity? Is their an issue with dirty air to the engine with the tin and rear wall removed? How much weight is in those doors ?(73). I thinking glass, regulator cross brace removal. And lastly how do you get around the wiring harness to remove the sound deading material quickly? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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Mueller
post Oct 19 2006, 04:19 PM
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are you build a real race car or a ricky-the-road-racer type deal???

for a streetable car, you'll want to keep the engine tin, the rear wall is a structual member
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Bleyseng
post Oct 19 2006, 05:08 PM
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Streetable or raceing only?

for the street fiberglass front and rear trunks saves alot of weight as do bumpers.

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JPB
post Oct 19 2006, 05:29 PM
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The floors are structural bro. I don't see how them fellas can take a floor out and get less weight with the new tubing. I guess it winds up being a whole lot stiffer though.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) Sheradon standard fiberglass body parts my brother "SHERADON" and don't look back!! Step with the big boys. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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Chris Pincetich
post Oct 19 2006, 06:24 PM
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Under the trunk floor is an extra metal flap for a muffler sound barrier that can be removed. If you cut the trunk floor out, don't cut the tranny mounts out too! Good discussion about tranny mounts/body actually flexing under high Gs in the Paddock. With a cage, you can cut out most of the dash and seat/floor cross members. Once you have spent 10 hours doing this, you could have shaved off the same or more weight in 10 minutes changing the lids to fiberglass. That's my plan, the rear was fitted last night...GT Racing looks good so far. Also, I lost about 6-8 lbs with new modern tranny mounts from WEVO and the mini-starter from eBay. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Bleyseng
post Oct 19 2006, 06:32 PM
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vincesix
post Oct 19 2006, 09:37 PM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Oct 19 2006, 04:08 PM) *

Streetable or raceing only?

for the street fiberglass front and rear trunks saves alot of weight as do bumpers.
mostly track use. I got the fiberglass bumpers, removed the interior and have a oddessy batery. She will see some street use. It sounds like the Fiberglass lids are the more reasonable weight saving step. Is it a waste of time removing the sound deading material or gutting the doors?
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jd74914
post Oct 19 2006, 09:49 PM
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Nope . . . do both of those things. The sounddeadening, tar, and door guts weight alot.
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Jeroen
post Oct 20 2006, 09:21 PM
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don't hold back (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/blog-1132592788.jpg)
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J P Stein
post Oct 21 2006, 10:19 PM
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73 was the change over year for safety beams in the doors....meaning you may have either. My 74 doors weighed 64 lbs each. The early gutted doors weigh20 lbs.
88 lbs loss for free is a gud price....just don't get T-boned. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


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