Ah Geez, pulled an exhaust stud, what are my options... Options

[Britain Smith]

Well, I actually thought I was making progress again on my turbo type-4 motor. I had everything mounted up and was working on the wiring and routing of the oil lines. Last thing I needed to do was to tighten up my stub pipes and bolts on the exhaust...and then it happened. I was torquing the last stub pipe on and I felt it give a little bit and there it goes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

So, here I am...I decided to take a little breather. Is there anything I can do without pulling the head off? I am pretty sure I will be going that route, but I thought I would ask. I am kicking myself in the ass for not getting this done before I bolted them on. I have half the sense to pull both heads and get them both done.

Those LE220 heads from Jake are looking better and better these days (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) ...but I have to stay on track and budget...

-Britain

[Britain Smith]

While I remember, does anyone have the torque specs and instructions for the ARP head bolts? I will need them when I am ready to bolt them back on.

-Britain

[SGB]

Britain-
Oh thats a sinking feeling isn't it? Of course it was the LAST nut of eight right? Cyl #4? I did this a couplw of weeks ago with the engine in the car. The scary part for me was that I had never used a tap & die before at all. Anyway, it can be done from under the car. WEAR SAFETY GOOGLES! Those little shreds of alum float as they come down- not like "cuttings" but little particles. Use a quality (not Harbor freight) tool. I got a "stepped stud" from my VW guy with a threaded sleeve (not an actual time-certm but they prolly make one).
Try to be sure the stud is not too close to the exhaust or there will be clearance problems with the nut. Didja heat up those cooper washers first to soften 'em? I did not, and had to go BACK and retorque all of 'em. That was really scary.
If the tapping things goes bad, then the heads will need to come off.... (:

[jasons]

You can try an EZ Out, but it will probably just break. At least that was my experience. Once the EZ Out broke, I had to pull the head. A broken EZ Out makes a bad situation worse.

[Gint]

Drill out the broken stud (or otherwise remove the stripped stud if not broken) and get an 8x1.25 time-sert kit. You can buy them directly from Time-Sert now.

[Krieger]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) One little tip that can possibly help: before you drill (and you should probably be doing this anyway) center punch the stud to center for the drill bit, but keep gently tapping to help loosen up whats left of the stud.

[Elliot_Cannon]

I just recently had the same exact problem. Drilling out the stud, lying on your back is difficult at best. I thought I could do it but ended up making things worse. I couldn't get the drill bit to start in the center of the stud even after using a center punch and starting a good pilot hole. It may be worth a try and some have been succesful doing it. I had to take the head off and have someone EDM the stud out, weld the hole up and re-tap new threads for a new stud. It worked out in the end but cost me a few bucks. My advise would be to "give it a shot" you got nothing to lose. Then take the head off and take it to a machine shop. When I reassembled the headers, I made sure I had all the bolts and nuts started before I began tightening everything up. I didn't use a torque wrench but was very careful with the wrench. So far it's holding up well.
Good luck, Elliot

[Britain Smith]

I didn't cross thread the stud or screw up the threads...I actually pulled the stud out of the head, threads and all. This is on my turbo type-4 motor so it is on the stands, not under the car. I should have had this done before mounted the heads. I may time-cert it, but we shall see.

-Britain

[Gint]

I didn't cross thread the stud or screw up the threads...I actually pulled the stud out of the head, threads and all. This is on my turbo type-4 motor so it is on the stands, not under the car. I should have had this done before mounted the heads. I may time-cert it, but we shall see.

-Britain

That just makes it even easier. Time-serts rule. Do it. Seriously, it will take you longer to order and recieve the kit than it will to do the work. 5 minutes and you're done.

[Elliot_Cannon]

I miss understood. I thought ya busted it off. Your problem I think will be a bit easier to deal with. Good luck.
Elliot

[TravisNeff]

Some heat and an easy out did the trick for me x4.

[Britain Smith]

That is a M8x1.25 right? Looking at the time sert kits right now.

-Britain

[Britain Smith]

Where the heck can I purchase a timesert kit? Anyone have one? I need to do a couple of exhaust studs...well, at least 1.

-Britain

[McMark]

8 x 1.25 is stock.

[Gint]

Where the heck can I purchase a timesert kit? Anyone have one? I need to do a couple of exhaust studs...well, at least 1.

-Britain

There was a link in my first post. Here it is again:

Time-Sert

You can buy directly from them.

The outer diameter of the 8x1.25mm time-sert is larger than the standard stud. The kit comes with a drill bit, tap, counter sink bit, insert tool, and the insert itself (5 actually). Basically everyhting you need.

[J P Stein]

There was a link in my first post. Here it is again:

Time-Sert

I'll bump this again so's he'll get it.....maybe. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif)

[shelby/914]

Gint is correct, use time-sert. Easy to use, even an online video to show you how to do it. When I reinstalled my exhaust after dropping the motor and had a terrible/loud exhaust leak. It was caused by a loose stud which was already oversized. Time-sert fixed the problem.